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Innocents Journey Through the Holy Land

Beirout, September 10, Tuesday
The Quaker City has arrived in Beirout, Lebanon. The tourists were broken up into groups, Mark Twain's group was to take 'the long trip"

Well, out of our eight, three were selected to attend to all business connected with the expedition. The rest of us had nothing to do but look at the beautiful city of Beirout, with its bright, new houses nestled among a wilderness of green shrubbery spread abroad over an upland that sloped gently down to the sea; and also at the mountains of Lebanon that environ it; and likewise to bathe in the transparent blue water that rolled its billows about the ship (we did not know there were sharks there.) We had also to range up and down through the town and look at the costumes. These are picturesque and fanciful, but not so varied as at Constantinople and Smyrna; the women of Beirout add an agony—in the two former cities the sex wear a thin veil which one can see through (and they often expose their ancles,) but at Beirout they cover their entire faces with dark-colored or black veils, so that they look like mummies, and then expose their breasts to the public. A young gentleman (I believe he was a Greek,) volunteered to show us around the city, and said it would afford him great pleasure, because he was studying English and wanted practice in that language. When we had finished the rounds, however, he called for remuneration—said he hoped the gentlemen would give him a trifle in the way of a few piastres (equivalent to a few five cent pieces.) We did so. The Consul was surprised when he heard it, and said he knew the young fellow’s family very well, and that they were an old and highly respectable family and worth a hundred and fifty thousand dollars! Some people, so situated, would have been ashamed of the berth he had with us and his manner of crawling into it.

The Long Trip

We are cut up into parties of six or eight, and by this time are scattered far and wide. Ours is the only one, however, that is venturing on what is called “the long trip”—that is, out into Syria, by Baalbec to Damascus, and thence down through the full length of Palestine. It would be a tedious, and also a too risky journey, at this hot season of the year, for any but strong, healthy men, accustomed somewhat to fatigue and rough life in the open air. The other parties will take shorter journeys.

September 11, Wednesday: Ten Miles East of Beirut

September 11, Wednesday
Sam, Dr. George Birch, William Church, Joshua Davis, William Denny, Julius Moulton, Dan Slote, and Jack Van Nostrand left Beirut, Lebanon on horseback at 3 PM . They camped that night about ten miles east of the city. Our caravan numbers 24 mules & horses, & 14 serving men—28 men all told [NJ 1: 417]. (MTDBD)
(The camp site is possibly Broumana)

September 12 Thursday: Camped about two thirds of the way between Beirut and Baalbek

September 12 Thursday
The group broke camp at 6:30 AM and stayed that night near Zahlah, about two thirds of the way between Beirut and Baalbek. From Sam’s notebook:1867
"Passed up the Valley & camped on l. side under the dews of Hermon. –first passing through a dirty Arab village & visiting the tomb of Noah, of Deluge notoriety [MTNJ 1: 417]. (MTDBD)

September 13 Friday: To Baalbek then to Sirghaya

September 13 Friday
Sam and group broke camp at 6:30 AM and visited Baalbek before returning south to camp at Sirghaya (MTDBD)

September 14 Saturday: Sam and group arrived at Damascus.

September 14 Saturday
Sam and group arrived at Damascus. (MTDBD)

September 15 Sunday Twain reports being very sick for the last 24 hours he spent in Damascus

September 15 Sunday
Twain reports being very sick for the last 24 hours he spent in Damascus, so I'm not sure how his itinerary actually works out. He calls it cholera, I suspect he had a case of dysentery from drinking the water.

September 16 Monday: Sam and group left Damascus at noon, and camped that night at Kefr Hauwar.

September 16 Monday
Sam and group left Damascus at noon, and camped that night at Kefr Hauwar.
Meanwhile, the QC arrived at Mt. Carmel at 10 AM and left again at noon, arriving at Jaffa (now part of Tel Aviv) at 8 PM .(MTDBD)

September 17 Tuesday: Sam and group departed Kefr Hauwar

September 17 Tuesday
Sam and group departed Kefr Hauwar in the AM and camped that night at Baniyas, once the ancient city of Caesarea Philippi.
From Sam’s notebook:
A great, massive, ruined citadel of 4 acres...hoof prints deep in old rocks...This is the first place we have ever seen,
whose pavements were trodden by Jesus Christ. ...Here Christ cured a woman who had had an issue of blood for 7

September 18 Wednesday:Sam and group departed Baniyas at 7:15 AM , and camped that night at Ain Mellahah, near Lake Huleh

September 18 Wednesday
Sam and group departed Baniyas at 7:15 AM , and camped that night at Ain Mellahah, near Lake Huleh (now called Bahret el Hule).
From Sam’s notebook:
It was first, ages ago, the Phoenician Laish—a lot of Danites from Sodom, 600, came over, like a pack of adventurers as they were, captured the place & lived there as sort of luxurious agriculturists, till Abraham hazed them in after times [MTNJ 1: 422]. (MTDBD)

September 19 Thursday: Sam and group left Ain Mellahah at 7 AM and camped that night at Tiberias, on the Sea of Galilee

September 19 Thursday
Sam and group left Ain Mellahah at 7 AM and camped that night at Tiberias, on the Sea of Galilee. (MTDBD)

September 20 Friday: Sam and group left Tiberias in the AM and camped that night at Nazareth

September 20 Friday
Sam and group left Tiberias in the AM and camped that night at Nazareth. (MTDBD)

September 21 Saturday – Sam and group left Nazareth and camped that night at Janin

September 21 Saturday
Sam and group left Nazareth and camped that night at Janin. From Sam’s
notebook:
Left Nazareth & its chalk hills at 7.30 [AM], came down a high, steep mountain & galloped across the Plain of
Esdraelon to Endor, the rustiest of all, almost—a few nasty mud cabin,—many caves & holes in the hill from which
the fierce, ragged, dirty inhabitants swarmed. Pop. 250 [MTNJ 1: 427].

September 22 Sunday – Sam and group left Janin at 2 AM and camped that night at Lubban.

September 22 Sunday
Sam and group left Janin at 2 AM and camped that night at Lubban. From Sam’s notebook:
Camped at 7 PM at an Arab Village—Lubia (Libonia of the Bible). Tents behind. Slept on the ground in front of an
Arab house. Lice, fleas, horses, jackasses, chickens, & worse than all, Arabs for company all night [MTNJ 1: 431].
(MTDBD)

September 23 Monday – Sam and group left Lubban at 2:30 AM and reached Jerusalem at noon.

September 23 Monday
Sam and group left Lubban at 2:30 AM and reached Jerusalem at noon.

In Jerusalem, September 23rd and 24th

A fast walker could go outside the walls of Jerusalem and walk entirely around the city in an hour. I do not know how else to make one understand how small it is. The appearance of the city is peculiar. It is as knobby with countless little domes as a prison door is with bolt-heads. Every house has from one to half a dozen of these white plastered domes of stone, broad and low, sitting in the centre of, or in a cluster upon, the flat roof. Wherefore, when one looks down from an eminence, upon the compact mass of houses (so closely crowded together, in fact, that there is no appearance of streets at all, and so the city looks solid,) he sees the knobbiest town in the world, except Constantinople. It looks as if it might be roofed, from centre to circumference, with inverted saucers. The monotony of the view is interrupted only by the great Mosque of Omar, the Tower of Hippicus, and one or two other buildings that rise into commanding prominence.

September 25 Wednesday – Sam and group left Jerusalem at 8 AM for a two-day side trip, camping that night near Jericho.

September 25 Wednesday
Sam and group left Jerusalem at 8 AM for a two-day side trip, camping that night near Jericho. (MTDBD)

September 26 Thursday – Sam and group left Jericho at 2 AM and visited the Jordan River and the Dead Sea.

September 26 Thursday
Sam and group left Jericho at 2 AM and visited the Jordan River and the Dead Sea.
Sam swam in the north end of the Dead Sea and tried to ride his horse into it, but fell off [Rasmussen 107].
That night they camped at Mar Saba. (MTDBD)

September 27 Friday – Sam and group left Mar Saba at 3 AM and visited Bethlehem

September 27 Friday
Sam and group left Mar Saba at 3 AM and visited Bethlehem. They returned to Jerusalem at noon. (MTDBD)

The Pilgrimage is Over

September 28, 29, & 30

Credits

Fears, David - Mark Twain Day By Day
Ian Strathcarron - Innocence and War

Course outline

The Innocents Abroad

  • Innocents Across the Atlantic
  • Innocents in the Azores
  • Innocents in Morocco
  • Innocents in France
  • Innocents in Italy
  • Innocents in Greece
  • Innocents in the Ottoman Empire
  • Innocents in Russia
  • Innocents Journey Through the Holy Land
  • Innocents in Egypt
  • The Innocents Go Home Again

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