Submitted by scott on Mon, 10/12/2020 - 21:09

June 15 Thursday – In Sam’s June 20 to Susan Crane Sam wrote they’d left the Villa on this day; but in his notebook he gave 6 p.m. Friday, June 17, even though Friday was June 16 [NB 33 TS 18].


June 16 Friday – Sam’s notebook:  Left the Villa Viviani at 6 p.m. Friday. June 17 [Friday was June 16]. Dined & stayed at Dr. Wilberforce Baldwin’s, 1 Via Palestro [NB 33 TS 18].


June 17 Saturday – Sam’s notebook reveals the Clemenses travel: Saturday, left at 2.30 p.m., went to Bologna in 3 hours. Stopped over Sunday in Hotel Brun, an old palace with beautiful ceilings & mosaic floors. Fearfully noisy all night. Leaning towers [NB 33 TS 18].


June 18 Sunday – The Clemens trio stayed in Bologna at the Hotel Brun, resting up for the next leg of their trip to Trient, Austria [NB 33 TS 18].


June 19 Monday– Sam’s notebook reveals the Clemenses next travel leg to Verona and Trient:  Monday, left at 10.30, got to Verona at 3.20. Visited tombs of the Scaligers; window in Monastery where Dante wrote part of the Divine Comedy; quaint & fine old staircase; passed house of the Capulets. At 4.40 very hot, no good hotel — went on to Trient, arriving at 8.05. Hotel Trient — excellent. Took an uninteresting drive [NB 33 TS 18]. Note: Dante is mentioned in the preface of PW.
Wednesday, left [Trient] at 7.20 — church-bells going like mad from 4.30 till 6.30 — came to Innsbruck by Brenner Pass in about 5½ hours, in an observation-car — first class tickets. All glass — that is, 2 sides & one end; 11 sail-cloth uncomfortable chairs — pile of camp-stools in a corner. Very dirty oil-cloth on floor.
      A Jew who ate & slept & smoked stinking cigarettes all the way — ate half bushel of sausages (imitation) to let on he wasn’t a Jew. Family of six & a boy who ate all the time [NB 33 TS 18-19].
     The Clemens family arrived in Innsbruck and took rooms in the Hotel Tirol — “cookery the best in Europe” [NB 33 TS 19]. This was Sam’s second visit to Austria. The family stayed until June 24 [Dolmetsch, MT Encyc. “Austria (Austria-Hungary)” 49].


June 22 Thursday – The Clemens family rested in Innsbruck, Austria. “Delightful Aufenthalt in a delightful hotel” [NB 33 TS 19]. Note: Aufenthalt (Resting Place), Rellstab’s title for the poem Schubert set in August 1828.


June 23 Friday – The Clemens family rested at the Hotel Tirol in Innsbruck, Austria.


June 24 Saturday – Sam’s notebook reveals the trip from Innsbruck to Munich:  Left at noon Saturday 24th & came in 4 hours to Munich through a lovely valley — bordered by lovely mountains & the swift Inn — the very dirtiest 1st class compartment in Europe. / Stopped at the Rheinischehof, a fine & expensive hotel, which is to have its electric light apparatus completed & working “next winter!” Pretty swift elevator, but with the old-fashioned rope propulsion. W.C.’s [water closets] of almost the most ancient pattern others of the newest [NB 33 TS 19].


June 25 Sunday – The Clemens family traveled some 62 miles and arrived in Munich, Germany.
 

Citations

Fears, David. 2014. “Mark Twain Day By Day”. http://daybyday.marktwainstudies.com/.

Comment