Bædeker (1898) Route 15 page 155

The Jordan, usually called by the Arabs simply Esh-Sherîa, the watering-place, is the principal river of Palestine. Before reaching the Dead Sea, its waters form the lakes of Hûleh and Tiberias. In a straight direction the distance from the sources to the mouth is not above 137 miles; but the course of the stream is so meandering that while the Dead Sea is in a direct line only 65 miles distant from the Lake of Tiberias, the length of the river is three times that distance. Whether the Jordan derives its Hebrew name of Yardên from its rapid fall is uncertain. Its fall is certainly very considerable: from the Hâsbâni spring to the Hûleh it descends 1700 ft., thence to the Lake of Tiberias 690 ft., and from that lake to the Dead Sea 610 ft., i.e. 3000 ft. in all, of which 1706 ft. only are above the level of the Mediterranean. For the causes of this fall, see p. 157. The Arabs call the valley of the Jordan El-Ghôr, i.e. the depression or hollow, while the Hebrews gave the name of 'Araba, or desert, to that part of the valley between the Lake of Tiberias and the Dead Sea. Most of the N. part of the valley is fertile, and from the Karn Sartabeh, on the route between Nâbulus and Es-Salt, a number of green oases, interrupted by barren tracts, extend southwards. Numerous brooks fall into the Jordan on both sides of the valley, and some of them are perennial, such as the Yarmûk and the Nahr ez-Zerkâ, both on the E. side. The character of the districts on both sides is essentially different. The E. region is better watered, until it reaches the desert lying still farther to the E., and politically it has always been distinct from the country W. of Jordan, as the deep valley formed a natural barrier. Most of the paths descending into the Jordan valley are wild and rugged. The width of the valley varies very much, being greatest between Jericho and Nimrîn, where it takes about 3 hrs. to cross. In this vast valley the river has worn for itself two channels. Into the older channel, which takes ½ hr. to cross, we descend over a deeply furrowed and barren terrace of clayey soil, about 50 ft. in height. The present channel, which is the more recent one, lies deeper but is completely filled in April by the river which is then on an average 100 feet wide. In fact, during the seasons of rain and melting snow, the river sometimes overflows its present low- lying banks. The thicket (ez-zôr) which conceals the water from view was once infested by lions (Jerem. xlix. 19). The Jordan contains numerous fish, which migrate to different parts of the river according to the season. The water is clear where it emerges from the Lake of Tiberias, but soon assumes a tawny colour from the clay which it stirs up in its rapid course. The water is not unwholesome for drinking, but is unrefreshing from its high temperature. The depth of the water varies greatly with the seasons. In autumn there are numerous fords. One of the most famous is that near the mouth of the Wâdi el-Kelt. It is called Makhâdet Hajleh from the ruin of the same name and is the bathing place of the pilgrims. Farther S. is another ford El-Henu. There is little or no trace in the Bible of the existence of bridges over the Jordan, the river being always crossed at fords (1 Sam. xiii. 7; 2 Sam. x. 17); but David and Barzillai were conveyed across it in a ferry-boat (2 Sam. xix. 18, 31). The miraculous division of the waters by the cloak of Elijah is also localised at this ford by tradition (2 Kings ii. 8). St. Christopher is said to have carried the infant Christ across the river somewhere in this neighbourhood.

Pilgrims are chiefly attracted to the Jordan by its association with John the Baptist and the baptism of Christ (Mark i. 5-11). The two monasteries of St. John afford a proof that the baptism of Christ was at a very early period believed to have been performed here. "We have, however, no clue to the possible site of Bethabara (John i. 28). Baptism in Jordan was as early as the time of Constantine deemed a special privilege. In the 6th cent. Antoninus found a great concourse of pilgrims here. He records that both banks were paved with marble; that a wooden cross rose in the middle of the stream; and that, after the water had been blessed by the priest, the pilgrims entered it, each wearing a linen garment, which was carefully preserved in order afterwards to be used as a winding-sheet. In the middle ages, too, baptisms took place In the Jordan, but the place for bathing and baptism was higher up, near the monastery. Since the 16th cent, the time of baptism was changed from the Epiphany to the pleasanter season of Easter. Disorderly scenes frequently took place here. From an early period the pilgrims were conducted, or rather hurried into the water by Beduin guides (some times accompanied by the pasha), and quarrels among the Christians were not uncommon. Down to the present time the Greeks attach great importance to the bath in Jordan as the termination of a pilgrimage. The great caravan starts for the Jordan immediately after the ceremonies of Easter, and the encampment lighted with pine torches on the bank of the river presents a quaint and interesting spectacle. The priests wade into the water breast-deep, and dip in the stream the men, women, and children as they approach in their white garments. Some of the pilgrims fill jars from the river to be used for baptisms at home. At other seasons also crowds of pilgrims are often encountered here. The finest survey of the scene is obtained from a spot a few paces above the bathing-place. The pilgrims are seen drying their linen, and enthusiastically drinking and bathing, while in the background rise the mountains to the W. of the Dead Sea, the spur of Râs el-Feshkha being especially prominent. — Caution is recommended to those who cannot swim, as the stream is very rapid and deepens towards the E. bank. The banks are fringed with tarfa trees and willows, and tall poplars (populus eufratica).