January 14 Tuesday – From FE ch XXXVII, p.336-44, a day of sight-seeing in Colombo:
January 14. Hotel Bristol. Servant Brompy. Alert, gentle, smiling, winning young brown creature as ever was. Beautiful shining black hair combed back like a woman’s, and knotted at the back of his head — tortoise-shell comb in it, sign that he is a Singhalese; slender, shapely form; jacket; under it is a beltless and flowing white cotton gown — from neck straight to heel; he and his outfit quite unmasculine. It was an embarrassment to undress before him.
We drove to the market, using the Japanese jinriksha — our first acquaintanceship with it. It is a light cart, with a native to draw it….There’s a plenty of these ‘rickshas, and the tariff is incredibly cheap.
The drive through the town and out to the Galle Facè by the seashore, what a dream it was of tropical splendors of bloom and blossom, and Oriental conflagrations of costume! The walking groups of men, women, boys, girls, babies — each individual was a flame, each group a house afire for color. And such stunning colors, such intensely vivid colors, such rich and exquisite minglings and fusings of rainbows and lightnings!
Evening — 14th. Sailed in the Rosetta. This is a poor old ship, and ought to be insured and sunk. As in the Oceana, just so here: everybody dresses for dinner; they make it a sort of pious duty. These fine and formal costumes are a rather conspicuous contrast to the poverty and shabbiness of the surroundings….If you want a slice of lime at four o’clock tea, you must sign an order on the bar. Limes cost 14 cents a barrel [Ch XXXVIII p. 345].
Clara Clemens remembered her father’s reactions upon reaching Ceylon:
Father seemed like a young boy in his enthusiasm over everything he saw. He kept reiterating: “This wonderful land, this marvelous land! There can be no other like it.” He loved the heat, the punkahs, the bungalows, and the continuous opportunity to wear white clothes without attracting attention. …A great wave of careless joy spread over the spirits of all and we felt as if we were entering upon a long holiday, because the strange sights and sounds made one oblivious to one’s own affairs. It did not take Father long to purchase one of the birch-bark umbrella hats — fine protectors against the heat…. We only stayed long enough in Ceylon to see some of the tropical gardens and sandy roads by the sea [MFMT 153-4].
Clara later recalled her father riding an elephant, and put it to the day in Colombo, but her recollection was often faulty for times and places. The ride would happen at Baroda Station on Jan. 31 — see entry.
The Ceylon Observer ran an article, “Mark Twain in Columbo,” announcing his arrival and suggesting Sam had no hotel initially.
When our representative met him Mark Twain was in the unenviable position of not knowing where to lay his head for the night, the influx of passengers having filled up the hotels. Amid the bustle of looking after luggage the conversation was naturally of a hurried and disjointed nature. “What ! you are not going to lecture in Colombo?” asked the pressman with astonishment. “Well, not at present. I am going to fool round India a bit first.” Fortunately at this state Mr. R.S. Smythe of Melbourne, who is traveling with Mr. Clemens, came to the rescue; and from him we were kindly favoured with an outline of the tour. Mr. Smythe explained that it was intended that Mark Twain should have lectured in Colombo tomorrow; but the time of departure of the P.& O. ss. “Rosetta” in which he travels to Bombay rendered this impossible.
In the evening the Clemens party sailed for Bombay on the S.S. Rosetta [Rodney, next to p. 182].