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Samuel Langhorne Clemens had been a riverboat pilot from February of 1857 to May of 1861, primarily navigating the Lower Mississippi River from New Orleans to St. Louis. James Buchanan was president. Abraham Lincoln was inaugurated in March of 1861; Sam was renewing his pilots license; the Civil War broke out. By the end of April, Sam's career on the river was over. Lincoln appointed Orion Clemens, Sam's older brother, secretary of the new territorial government of Nevada. Three months after leaving the river Sam was on his way to Nevada on the Overland Stage from St. Joseph, Missouri to Carson City.

My brother had just been appointed Secretary of Nevada Territory—an office of such majesty that it concentrated in itself the duties and dignities of Treasurer, Comptroller, Secretary of State, and Acting Governor in the Governor’s absence. A salary of eighteen hundred dollars a year and the title of “Mr. Secretary,” gave to the great position an air of wild and imposing grandeur. I was young and ignorant, and I envied my brother. I coveted his distinction and his financial splendor, but particularly and especially the long, strange journey he was going to make, and the curious new world he was going to explore. He was going to travel! I never had been away from home, and that word “travel” had a seductive charm for me. Pretty soon he would be hundreds and hundreds of miles away on the great plains and deserts, and among the mountains of the Far West, and would see buffaloes and Indians, and prairie dogs, and antelopes, and have all kinds of adventures, and may be get hanged or scalped, and have ever such a fine time, and write home and tell us all about it, and be a hero. And he would see the gold mines and the silver mines, and maybe go about of an afternoon when his work was done, and pick up two or three pailfuls of shining slugs, and nuggets of gold and silver on the hillside. And by and by he would become very rich, and return home by sea, and be able to talk as calmly about San Francisco and the ocean, and “the isthmus” as if it was nothing of any consequence to have seen those marvels face to face.

(Roughing It)

Richard Francis Burton: English explorer, geographer, translator, writer, soldier, orientalist, cartographer, ethnologist, spy, linguist, poet, fencer, and diplomat; famed for his travels and explorations in Asia, Africa and the Americas, as well as his extraordinary knowledge of languages and cultures. According to one count, he spoke 29 European, Asian and African languages; traveled the same route just the year before. In his words:

 A tour through the domains of Uncle Samuel without visiting the wide regions of the Far West, would be, to use a novel simile, like seeing Hamlet with the part of Prince of Denmark, by desire, omitted. Moreover, I had long determined, to add the last new name to the list of "Holy Cities;" to visit the young rival, soi-disant, of Memphis, Benares, Jerusalem, Rome, Meccah; and after having studied the beginnings of a mighty empire "in that New World which is the Old," to observe the origin and the working of a regular go-ahead Western and Columbian revelation. Mingled with the wish of prospecting the City of the Great Salt Lake in a spiritual point of view, of seeing Utah as it is, not as it is said to be, was the mundane desire of enjoying a little skirmishing with the savages, who in the days of Harrison and Jackson had given the pale faces tough work to do, and that failing, of inspecting the line of route which Nature, according to the general consensus of guide books, has pointed out as the proper, indeed the only practical direction for a railway between the Atlantic and the Pacific. The commerce of the world, the Occidental Press had assured me, is undergoing its grand climacteric: the resources of India and the nearer orient are now well nigh cleared of "loot," and our sons, if they would walk in the paths of their papas, must look to Cipangri and the parts about Cathay for their annexations .


Why I went to Great Salt Lake City:

Let it be known, here at the outset, that neither Mr. Clemens nor Mr. Burton were ever under attack by American Indians; or Mormons, for that matter. If there is a preponderance of material from Richard F. Burton it is because I found him to be an impartial witness to conditions and features of the geography under examination. He had nothing to gain nor lose from his writing. He was a foreign observer with no agenda other than to explore this region. It is my intention to remain as close as possible to the time frames of Twain's visits. In this case, the first half of the 1860s decade.

Sam Clemens and his brother, Orion, rode the Overland Stage from St.Joseph, MO to Carson City in 1861. Richard Francis Burton took the same journey in 1860. Although only a year apart, their experiences were quite different. The Clemens brothers took just less than three weeks but Burton's journey ran between August 7, 1860 to October 19th, granted he spent almost a month in Salt Lake City.

Samuel L. Clemens and Richard Burton both took a steamboat from St. Louis to St. Joseph and neither had much to say about the trip. Burton does address the physical characteristics of the Mississippi River drainage basin and presents arguments as to why the Missouri River should not be considered as the Mississippi's headwaters.

From the Missouri River to the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains. The road ran through Kansas, Nebraska and into Wyoming. They passed Fort Kearney, Julesburg, also known as Overland City, to Fort Laramie. The Clemens brothers traveled this road between July 26 and August 1, 1861. Richard Burton, between August 7 and August 14, 1860.
The route over the Rocky Mountains started from Fort Laramie, through South Pass and into Salt Lake City. Sam and Orion passed by Fort Laramie at night, from August 1 to August 5th. Richard Burton took 2 weeks to complete this leg of his journey, from August 14 to August 28.
Possibly the most difficult leg of their journey, through the arid lands of the Basin and Range Province of the American Southwest, the road from Salt Lake City to Carson City. The Clemens brothers took one week, from August 7th to the 14th. Richard Burton took nearly a month to complete the journey, from September 20 to October 19th of 1860. Their routes were essentially the same until the last portion. Burton took the southern route from Fairview to Carson. By the next year this route was closed due to problems with Indians. The Clemens brothers took what is referred to as the Stillwater Dogleg.

"We arrived, disembarked, and the stage went on. It was a “wooden” town; its population two thousand souls. The main street consisted of four or five blocks of little white frame stores which were too high to sit down on, but not too high for various other purposes; in fact, hardly high enough. They were packed close together, side by side, as if room were scarce in that mighty plain.

This list of stations is from the National Pony Express Association 


The Patee House was the Eastern Headquarters of the Pony Express and housed the Riders. The horses were stalled at the Pikes Peak Stables.

The Pony and Rider actually went inside the Patee House post office to collect the mochila filled with mail, before setting off to the west.