Submitted by scott on

October 15 Saturday – The New York Times, Oct. 30, p. 7, “Coffee Houses In Vienna…Mark Twain’s Warm Eulogy,” with dateline Oct. 15:

VIENNA. Oct. 15.—In a recent magazine article Mark Twain pays a glowing tribute to Vienna coffee. He calls it “that unapproachable luxury—that sumptuous coffee-house coffee, compared with which all European coffee and all American hotel coffee is mere fluid poverty.” To those unacquainted with the deliciousness of the coffee Mark Twain has in mind, this may seem a sweeping statement, but it nevertheless is true. For coffee is the popular beverage of the Viennese, just as beer is the popular beverage of the Muencheners, and in Vienna coffee-houses are as numerous as beer gardens and restaurants in the beer drinking centre of Bavaria.

….

The cafes also serve as a place of work for many people. Commercial travelers, when visiting the city, may often be seen seated at the tables in the coffee houses, engaged in summing up the result of their day’s business or writing letters, and it is not an unusual thing to see artists busied in sketching street scenes from the broad windows of these congregating places. In connection with this custom which the Austrians have working over a cup of coffee, the Viennese relate that Mark Twain may frequently be found in a certain large café on the Ringstrasse plying his pencil over page after page of his fat notebook. From this the Austrians strongly suspect that the American humorist is preparing some fun of which they will be the subject. But in justice to them it is well to add that they will enjoy whatever he may write as much as Americans or English; perhaps more so, for, as a rule, they take criticisms, and especially Mark Twain’s criticisms, in good faith.

Note: The English had their 5 o’clock tea, while the Viennese chose 4 o’clock as their social hour for coffee, and packed the cafes, especially in winter. Not only coffee was served, so was warmth and a variety of newspapers. Patrons were encouraged to lounge. Coffee was served in a variety of forms, many unknown in other countries, including:

Schwarzer: Strong black coffee. A kleiner Schwarzer is the equivalent of an espresso; a grosser Schwarzer is a double shot. Also called a Mokka (Moccha). Kapuziner: Cappucino. Brauner: Coffee with a dash of milk or cream. Goldener: Coffee with milk; “regular coffee.” Mélange: Equal amounts of milk and coffee with froth. Kaffee Crème: Coffee with a miniature pitcher of milk on the side.

Verlängter: Coffee with hot water added. Einspänner: Coffee in a glass with a hefty dollop of Schlagobers or Schlag (whipped cream). Fiaker: Espresso in a glass with sugar and Kirschwasser (a dry cherry brandy), topped with whipped cream and a cherry. Pharisäer: Espresso in a glass with sugar, whipped cream, cocoa, and a shot of rum.

Links to Twain's Geography Entries

Day By Day Acknowledgment

Mark Twain Day By Day was originally a print reference, meticulously created by David Fears, who has generously made this work available, via the Center for Mark Twain Studies, as a digital edition.