The Fort is a huge old structure, and has had a large experience in religions. In its great court stands a monolith which was placed there more than 2,000 years ago to preach (Budhism) by its pious inscription; the Fort was built three centuries ago by a Mohammedan Emperor—a resanctification of the place in the interest of that religion. There is a Hindoo temple, too, with subterranean ramifications stocked with shrines and idols; and now the Fort belongs to the English, it contains a Christian Church. Insured in all the companies.

From the lofty ramparts one has a fine view of the sacred rivers. They join at that point—the pale blue Jumna, apparently clean and clear, and the muddy Ganges, dull yellow and not clean.
(FE)

We look up as the old fort. It must have been completely splendid when it was built four hundred years ago and it still is relatively splendid even now. Twain described it: “The Fort is a huge old structure, and has had a large experience in religions. In its great court stands a monolith which was placed there more than 2,000 years ago to preach (Buddhism) by its pious inscription; the Fort was built three centuries ago by a Mohammedan Emperor—a resanctification of the place in the interest of that religion. There is a Hindoo temple, too, with subterranean ramifications stocked with shrines and idols; and now the Fort belongs to the English, it contains a Christian Church. Insured in all the companies.” Very droll. No insurance is needed now as three-quarters of the old fort has been taken over by the Indian Army. It looks in fine shape: painted buildings, mown lawns, a polo pitch. Left-right, left-right on the parade ground. I’m not quite sure why the third biggest army in the world needs to be here, as far as they can be from any border, mucking up our sightseeing but I am sure it’s all for the best. The quarter not taken over by the Indian Army is going to the mange-dogs, physically and proverbially. There are four impromptu Hindu temples, surrounded by overgrowing general shrubbery; the civilian part of the fort will soon be of interest to archaeologists only. From the turrets, now out of bounds, Twain could see the view I cannot see now. To reach the object of the view I need Rajesh, the Brahmin on the scooter.
(The Indian Equator)