History. Ba'albek is the Heliopolis of Græco-Roman authors, but we possess no written records regarding the city earlier than the 3rd or 4th cent. of our era. The Greek name suggests that the place was connected with the worship of the sun, and Baal corresponds generally with the sungod. Coins of Heliopolis as early as the 1st cent. show that the town was a Roman colony. Coins of Septimius Severus (193-211), however, no longer bear the earlier device of a colonist with an ox, but the outlines of two temples. This confirms a statement dating from the 7th cent, to the effect that Antoninus Pius erected a large temple to Jupiter at Heliopolis in Phœoenicia, which was regarded as one of the marvels of the age. Later coins also bear representations of the two temples , but It is unknown whether the larger was ever finished. From the votive inscriptions of Antoninus Pius it would appear that the larger temple was dedicated to all the gods of Heliopolis; the smaller would, therefore, be the temple of Baal. Both temples most probably date from the same period. The vestibule was begun by Caracalla (211-217) and completed by Philip (244-249), who also built the winding staircase in front and the external walls. Besides Baal Venus was also specially revered at Heliopolis. Constantine is said to have erected a basilica here. Both before and after Constantine the Christians were persecuted at Heliopolis. Theodosius the Great (379-395) destroyed the great 'Trilithon' Temple at Heliopolis and converted it into a Christian church. At a later period bishops of Heliopolis are mentioned. Ba'albek was conquered by Abu `Ubeida on his march from Damascus to Homs. The Arabs extol the fertility of the environs, and attribute the antiquities to Solomon. The Arabic name corresponds with the earlier Syrian appellation of the place, Ba’aldach. The Arabs mention Ba'albek specially as a fortress, and at an early period they converted the acropolis into a citadel. As a fortress it was important in the wars of the middle ages, as, for example, in the conflicts between the Seljuks and the sultans of Egypt. In 1139 the town and castle were captured by Emir Zenghi, and during the same century the place suffered from several earthquakes. In 1175 the district of Ba'albek came into possession of Saladin. In the following year the Crusaders under Raymund made an expedition from Tripoli to the neighbourhood of Ba'albek, defeated the Saracens, and returned laden with booty. Baldwin IV. undertook a similar expedition from Sidon. In 1260 Ba'albek was destroyed by Hûlagû, and was afterwards conquered by Timûr. In the middle of the 16th cent. the ruins of Ba'albek were rediscovered by Europeans, but they have again suffered severely from earthquakes, particularly from that of 1759.

Ba'albek (3840 ft. above the sea) lies on the E. side of the valley of the Lîtânî which is here very fertile. Not far distant is the watershed between this river and the El-`Asi (Orontes). It contains about 5000 inhabitants (about 1000 are Christians), and possesses 2 Greek and 2 Maronite monasteries. The British Syrian Mission has a girls' school in a beautiful new building. The town is the seat of a Kâimmakâm and a small garrison.

The Acropolis of Ba'albek, surrounded by gardens, and running from W. to E., rises to the W. of the little town.

Permission to view is obtainable at the Seâai, 1 mejîdi each person; the kawass who acts as escort receives 6 to 18 pi. according to the number of the party and the time occupied.

The entrance is by the spacious vaults (PI. b) at the S.E. corner. The Vaults were probably used as stables and warehouses in the middle ages. They consist of two long, parallel, vaulted passages, intersected by another, and bearing remains of Latin inscriptions. There are also traces of older, depressed vaults, over which the Roman vaults were built.

• b. Entrances (through the vaults), 
• c. Entrance now built up.
• d. Inner exit from the vaults.
• 1. Portico.
• 2. Forecourt.
• 3. Main Court.
• 4. Raised Platform.
• 5. Exedra.
• 6. Columns of the Great Temple.
• 7. Temple of the Sun.
• 8. Half-recumbent Column.
• 9. Arabian Building.
• 10. External Wall.
• 11. Cyclopean Wall.

We shall appreciate the plan of the edifice best by beginning our inspection of the interior at the E. end. The Portico (PI. 1) of the great temple being 19 ft. above the adjoining orchard, it is supposed that the temple was approached from this E. end by a broad flight of steps, the materials of which were probably used in the construction of the mediæval citadel and the present E. wall. The portico is a rectangle of about 12 yds. in depth. In front it had twelve columns, the hasps of which are still preserved. Two of these bear Latin inscriptions to the effect that the temple was erected and dedicated by Antoninus Pius and Julia Domna. The portico is flanked by tower-like buildings, enriched externally by a moulding running round them at the same height as that of the portico. There are also doors leading into square chambers, which are richly adorned with pilasters, niches, etc. The upper parts of these buildings were converted into fortified towers in the middle ages. The northern tower is better preserved than the southern.

In the richly decorated wall at the back of the porch are three portals, the central and largest of which is 23 ft. , the two smaller 10 feet wide. The small portal on the left side only is now open. The Forecourt (PI. 2) which we now enter is of hexagonal form, about 65 yds. long, and from angle to angle about 83 yds. wide. The foundation-walls and a few shell-shaped niches are alone preserved. On each of the six sides, except the western, there were originally square exedrae, or lateral chambers, in front of each of which stood four columns. The eastern exedra was entered from the portico. Between these exedræ lay smaller chambers of irregular shape. — From this point we can observe the buildings constructed by the Saracens on the E. side.

A threefold portal led from the hexagon into the large and handsome Main Court (PI. 3) of the temple. The smaller northern portal only is preserved (on the right). This court is about 147 yds. long from E. to W., and 123 yds. wide. On both sides of the court, and at the E. end, are also exedræ, which are best surveyed from the square platform (PI. 4) in the centre of the court. The fragments in the middle, which are still preserved, probably belonged to a basilica. The court presents an effective ensemble, but on closer inspection the degenerate style of the ornamentation points to the late period of the 3rd century. This applies particularly to the exedræ all of which contain two rows of niches, one above the other, separated from one another by Corinthian pilasters with highly ornate capitals. The shapes of the niches differ greatly ; some are in the shell-form, others are semi-circular, with curved entablatures, and others again have broken gables. The best-preserved exedra is one of semicircular form {PI. 5) on the N. side. Many of the niches on the other sides are destroyed. All the exedræ were covered, and in some of them interesting remains of the moulding of the ceiling are preserved. In front of the chambers ran rows of columns , some of syenite, a few of which still lie scattered about (in the S. part of the court). The chambers on both sides correspond exactly with each other, so that we need describe one side only. Adjoining the smaller entrance-portal on the right, which is still preserved, we first find a large niche perhaps destined for a colossal statue, beyond which comes a rectangular chamber. In the N.E. corner of the court were three quadrangular chambers (now fallen in), that in the angle being accessible from the side-chambers only. On the N. side follows a square chamber (originally with four columns) ; next is a semicircular chamber (with two columns), beyond which, in the centre of this side , is a long rectangular chamber, followed by a semicircular and a square chamber, and finally a corner chamber. The central portal on the W. side, leading to the Great Temple, is built in the shape of a niche.

Of the Great Temple (PI. 6) , the entrance-courts of which we have just traversed, but few remains are now extant. The six, huge Columns of the peristyle, 60 ft. in height, the sole remains of the once world-renowned temple, have already long been visible to the traveller approaching Ba'albek. The yellowish stone of which they are composed looks particularly handsome by evening-light. The columns are still provided with stylobates and have somewhat heavily executed bases. The columns do not taper, but have very fair Corinthian capitals. The architrave is in three sections. Above it is a frieze with a close row of corbels, which appear to have borne small lions. Still higher is tooth moulding, then Corinthian corbels, and still higher a cornice, in all 17 ft. high. The smooth shafts are 7 1/2ft. in diameter, and consist of three pieces held together with iron. The Turks have barbarously made incisions in the columns at several places, in order to remove the iron cramps, and it is to be feared that the columns, being much undermined, and being damaged in the upper parts also, will not stand much longer. — Thej peristyle, of which these six columns formed part, had eighteen columns on each side and ten at each end; but of these nine only were standing in 1751. Many columns now lie scattered around. The form of the temple which was thus enclosed cannot now be determined. It faced the E., and stood on a basement about .50 ft. above the surrounding plain. The E. wall of this substruction ad joined the platform of the entrance-court; the S. wall is partly buried in rubbish. The W. wall is covered with masonry, and about the middle of it there is a gap, through which we look down upon gardens. The N. wall, above which a few fragments of columns are still inserted, is exposed to view, and consists of thirteen courses of drafted stones, each course being 3 3/4 ft. high. Outside these walls, and 29 ft., distant from them, runs an enclosing wall of large hewn blocks (p. 376).

If we proceed towards the S.E. from the six columns, passing the entrance (PI. d) to the subterranean passage, we reach the so called "Temple of the Sun (PI. 7), the smaller of the two. It stands on a basement of its own, lower than the larger temple, and quite unconnected with it. It has .no court, but was approached from the E. by a stair ascending direct to the portal. The stair was flanked with walls, and part of it still perhaps exists under the walls of the Turkish fort built in front of it. — This temple is one of the best-preserved and most beautiful antique buildings in Syria, The Peristyle, partially preserved, had fifteen columns on each side, and eight at each end. In front of the portal was a double row of columns ; and on each side, in front of the projecting walls which formed the portal, stood two fluted columns. Of this E. row of columns the bases only are preserved, except at the S. angle, the rest heing concealed by the Turkish walls. The columns of the peristyle and the wall of the cells are 10 ft. apart. The columns, including the Corinthian capitals, are 52 1/2 ft- in height, and bear a lofty entablature with a handsome double frieze. The entablature is connected with the cella by huge slabs of stone, which form a very elaborately executed coffered ceiling, consisting of hexagons, rhomboids, and triangles with central ornaments, while the intervening spaces are filled with busts of emperors and gods relieved by foliage, which have, however, been terribly mutilated by Muslim barbarism. The leaf work is beautifully executed, recalling the Byzantine style in its treatment.

Four connected columns are preserved on the S. side, but of the others the bases only are left, most of the shafts having been thrown down from the platform. One column (PI. 8) has fallen against the cella, and so strongly is it held together by its iron cramps that it has broken several stones of the wall of the cella without itself coming to pieces. The wall, however, is in a precarious condition. Here, too, the Turks have destroyed the shafts and bases of the columns, in order to extract the iron. On the W. side three columns are still upright, and connected with each other ; of the others fragments alone remain. Huge masses of the coffered ceiling have fallen in, one of the finest fragments being a female bust surrounded by five other busts. The peristyle on the N. side is almost entirely preserved. Its ceiling consists of thirteen more or less damaged sections with fine busts.

IInterior. Traversing the porch, which is 25 ft. deep, we come to the very elaborately executed Portal of the temple, the gem of the structure. It was rectangular in form , and on each side stood columns. The doorposts are lavishly enriched with vines, garlands, genii, and other objects. The lintel consists of three stones, on the lower side of which is the figure of an eagle with a tuft of feathers, holding in its claws a staff and in its beak long garlands, the ends of which are held by genii. The eagle was probably a symbol of the sun. The central stone having subsided since 1759, it became necessary in 1870 to prop it by a wall. On each side of the entrance are massive pillars containing spiral staircases. The entrance to one of these is built up, but in the other pillar about eighteen steps have been preserved. The cella, about 29 yds. long and 24 1/2 yds. broad, is half destroyed. Remains of a high relief are still traceable on the front wall to the left under the raised space of the cella. Above the cornice were five niches. The N. side is less injured than the S; on each side are six fluted semi-columns with projecting entablature, and then (W.) three pilasters. The different sections of the architrave project considerably, one beyond the other. The building was once covered ■with vaulting. The frieze is subdivided by triglyphs closely ranged together. The empty rectangular niches are crowned by small projecting gables. The ornamented semi circular arches of the lower arcade are worthy of inspection. At the W. end was the raised sanctuary, where the altar stood during the Christian period. Portions of the partition-wall are still preserved. A door descended hence to vaults. — Interesting as the details of the structure are, the effect of the whole points to a late period of art.

Opposite the facade of this temple stands a later Arabian building (PI. 9) with a stalactite portal. It is a strong, well-built edifice, mostly of ancient material. The steps ascending to it are destroyed. The vaults and chambers in the interior are uninteresting.

On the N. side (PI. 10) of the larger temple the Enclosing Wall adjoins the N.E. corner of the wall of the main court, which projects about 76 ft. beyond this outer wall. At this point is a large portal, which led into the underground vaults. Above this portal, to the left, is a second door, with Corinthian pillars, now built up. The N. enclosing wall , which is here about 19 ft. high only, was probably unfinished. On this N. side a gate leads into the space between the outer wall and that which forms the substruction of the peristyle of the great temple. Fragments of the columns of the peristyle are still lying here. The outer wall (PI. 10) is here 10 ft. thick, and contains nine stones, each about 30 ft. long and 13 ft. high. These, however, are small compared with the gigantic 'Blocks in the W. wall (PI. 11), which are perhaps the largest stones ever used in building. One of these is about 64 ft., another 63'/2 ft-, and a third 62 ft. in length ; each of them is about 13 ft. high, and probably as many feet in thickness. The greatest marvel is that they have been raised to the top of a substruction already 33 ft. high. By whom , and by what machinery they were quarried and placed in their present position, will probably never be ascertained. It was probably from these three extraordinary blocks that the temple derived its name of trilithon ('three-stoned'). Numerous carefully chiselled square holes may be observed on the blocks, with the exception of the huge blocks just mentioned. These holes (which occur also in the marble blocks of the temple) were probably intended for the insertion of levers. The lower stones are grey, and the large blocks yellowish in colour.

In the modern village , to the E. of the Acropolis , is a third Temple, smaller, and well preserved. In order to visit it, we must pay a few piastres for admission through a house on the N. side of the temple. The outside is the most remarkable part of this temple. The cella is semicircular in form. ' Around it runs a peristyle of eight beautiful Corinthian monolithic columns. Between these, in the wall of the cella, are shell-niches, with a curved architrave borne by small Corinthian pilasters. Along the upper part of the wall of the cella runs a frieze with wreaths of foliage. The architrave and the entablature of the peristyle are bent inwards semicircularly, and project from the wall of the cella beyond the columns of the peristyle. The entablature is lavishly enriched with tooth ornament and other decoration. The door-posts of the portal consist of large monoliths. In the interior are three niches, two with round architraves, and one with a triangular one. The building was formerly used as a Greek chapel, whence the remains of crosses on the interior walls. Now, however, it is rapidly falling to decay.

Environs of Ba’albek. In the hills to the S.E., near the road to Ez-Zebedânî, and 10 min. from Ba'albek, are the ancient Quarries, where another colossal hewn block (hajar el-hubla), probably likewise destined to be used in the construction of the outer wall of the Acropolis, but not yet separated from the rock, is still to be seen. Its prodigious dimensions are only appreciated on closer inspection. It is 71 ft. in length, 14 ft. high, and 13 ft. wide, and would probably weigh 1500 tons. — We now ascend the hill to the S.E. of Ba'albek. At the top we enjoy an admirable Survey of the little town, the Acropolis, the beautiful wide plain with its red earth (coloured with oxide of iron), the summit of the Sannîn, and to the N. of it the Munêtireh mountain, with its wooded slopes. To the E., in the small valley separating this spur from Anti-Libanus, is the spring Râs el-'Ain. On the hill are the remains of a Muslim chapel, and higher up is a tomb surrounded with fragments of columns. — The old town-walls of Ba'albek skirt the slopes of this hill. Following the slope towards the N.E., we come to a heap of fragments of columns, and in a few minutes to large rock-tombs extending along the N.E. slope. From this point we may return through the small town. — Or following the hill to the right, we may proceed to (20 min.) Râs el-'Ain. A copious brook here bursts from the earth and is enclosed in a basin. Adjacent are the ruins of two mosques. The smaller was built, according to the inscription, by Melik ez-Zâhir in 670 of the Hegira (1272) , and the larger by his son Melik el-As'ad. The outer wall of the latter is still standing. From this point a shady road following the course of the brook brings us in 15 min. back to the town.

To the N.W. of Ba'albek stands a large barrack (kishlak), of the time of Ibrâhîm Pasha, and beyond it are several deserted' buildings. To the right lies a rocky plain containing numerous quarries, with stairs hewn in the rock. There are also several caverns, which were probably used as tombs. Carefully excavated conduits are found E. of the Acropolis.