Bâniyâs. — History. The modern Bâniyâs was anciently the Greek Paneas, which, according to Josephus, appears also to have been the name of a district. A grotto above the source of the Jordan was a sanctuary of Pan (Paneion). When Herod the Great received from Augustus the territory of Zenodorus and the tetrarchy to the N. and N.E. of the Lake of Tiberias, including Paneas, he erected a temple over the spring in honour of Augustus. Philip the Tetrarch, Herod's son, who inherited this district, enlarged Paneas and gave it the name of Cæsarea, to which was afterwards added Philippic to distinguish it from Cæsarea Palæstinæ (p. 272). This is probably the most northerly point ever visited by Christ (Matth. xvi. 13; Mark viii. 27). Herod Agrippa II. extended the town and called it Neronias, but the older name never entirely disappeared and in the 4th cent, was again revived. Titus here celebrated the capture of Jerusalem with gladiatorial combats , at which many of the Jewish captives were compelled to enter the lists with wild beasts or with each other. An early Christian tradition makes this the scene of the healing of the woman with the issue of blood (Matth. ix. 20). In the 4th cent, a bishopric was founded here under the patriarchate of Antioch. During the Crusades Bâniyâs was in 1229 or 1230 surrendered , together with the lofty fortress of Subêbeh (p. 300), to the Christians after their unsuccessful attack on Damascus. The knight Rainer Brus afterwards received the town and castle as a fief. In 1132 Bâniyâs was taken by Tâj el-Mulûk Bûri, Sultan of Damascus, but in 1139 it was recaptured by the Christians. A Latin bishopric, subordinate to the archbishopric of Tyre, was then founded here. Bâniyâs afterwards came into the possession of the Connétable Honfroy. Nûreddîn conquered the town in 1157, but could not reduce the fortress. The town was retaken by Baldwin III., but was finally occupied by Nûreddîn in 1165. Sultan el-Muazzam caused the fortifications to be razed.

Bâniyâs is beautifully situated in a nook of the Hermon mountains, 1150 ft. above the sea-level, between the Wâdi Khashâbeh (N.) and the Wâdi Záâreh (S.), two valleys coming from the E. A third valley, the Wâdi el-'Asal, opens a little to the N. , from a deep wooded ravine among the mountains. Water abounds in every direction, calling into life a teeming luxuriance of vegetation, and serving to irrigate the fields which extend hence down to the plain. The present village consists of about fifty houses, most of which are enclosed within the ancient castle-wall. On the S. side of this wall flows the brook of the Wâdi Za`âreh, which unites a little lower down with the copious stream of the infant Jordan. Remains of columns show that the ancient city extended far to the S. beyond the Wâdi Za'areh.  The castle in the N. part of the town was a vast and massive edifice.  On the N. side its wall was protected by the waters of the Bâniyâs spring. The corner-towers of the walls were round and constructed of large drafted blocks. Three of these towers are preserved. In the centre of the S. side of the castle stands a portal, which is antique, though bearing an Arabic inscription. A stone bridge, which is also partly ancient, crosses the wadi from this point, and several columns of granite are observed in its walls.

The chief object of interest is the Source of the Jordan, which issues below the W. end of the lofty castle-hill. The mountain terminates here in a precipitous cliff of limestone (mingled with basalt), and appears to have been so broken away by convulsions of nature, that a large cavern which once existed here has been nearly destroyed.  Beneath the mass of broken rocks that choke the entrance to the cavern (Arab. Maghâret Râs en-Neba', 'the cavern of the spring') and almost conceal it, bursts forth an abundant stream of beautiful clear water. By this spring stood the Paneion and the temple built by Herod (p. 299). On the face of the oliff, to the S. of the cavern, are four votive niches, which were once much higher above the ground than now. The most W. niche is large and deep, and above it is a smaller one. Several other niches are hollowed out in the form of shells. Over the small niche to the E. is the inscription in Greek: 'Priest of Pan'. — On the rock stands the small weli of Shekh Khidr (St. George), which commands a good survey of Bâniyâs.

The huge castle above Bâniyâs, Kal'at es-Subêbeh, however, commands a far finer prospect, and the ascent (1 hr.) is strongly recommended (guide desirable). The traveller may either take horses with him, riding being practicable, or he may send the horses on to 'Ain er-Rîhân (p. 302).

The castle, which was formerly called Kal'at es-Subêbeh (a name now hardly known), is one of the best-preserved and largest in Syria. The greater part was erected by the Franks, who held possession of it from 1139 to 1164. The castle stands on the irregularly shaped summit of a narrow ridge, which is separated from the flank of Mt. Hermon by the Wâdi Khashâbeh. The edifice follows the irregularities of its site.  From E. to W. it is 480 yds. long, at each end 120 yds. wide, but in the middle much narrower. Within the castle are several large but some what muddy cisterns. The S. part of the castle is the best-preserved.  All the substructions consist of drafted blocks of beautiful workmanship. The entrance is on the S. side; a little to the E. is preserved a building called by the Arabs El-Mehkemeh, or 'house of judgment'. Externally it possesses very handsome pointed niches , and the thick wall is pierced with small arched apertures resembling loopholes. The vaulting is borne by a large pillar. The ear-shaped enrichments on the arches are curious. On the S. side of the castle are several other buildings resembling towers, in a more or less dilapidated condition. — The S.W. part of the castle is in ruins. The Arabic inscriptions here reach back to the beginning of the 13th cent., and probably have reference to the thorough restoration of the castle. The E. part of the building, in which there are several cisterns, is higher than the W. part, and affords a survey of the whole fortress. This part was originally meant to form a distinct citadel, being separated from the W. part by a wall and moat.  The N. side of the castle presents the most striking appearance. Part of the enclosing wall here has fallen over the precipice, 600-650 ft. in height, into the Wâdi Khashabeh. The wooded valley below and the opposite heights of Hermon present a noble picture. The precipice at the S.W. angle is also of a dizzy height; a flight of steps hewn on the W. side is no longer accessible. This point commands the best *View of Bâniyâs , the Hfileh Lake, and the hills beyond Jordan. To the N.W. Kal'at esh Shakif (p. 330), and to the W. Hunin (p. 298) serve as it were to balance the "picture. To the S.'Anfît is visible, and above it, Za'areh. To the S.E. is `Ain Kanya; to the E., the village of Jubbâta. On the whole, the view is one of the most magnificent in Syria. The castle stands about 2500 ft.  above the sea-level. — Leaving the castle towards the E.S.E., we may descend by a steep path into the valley, ascend a little on the opposite side.  and thus regain the Damascus road at (1/2 hr.) `Ain er-Ríhân (p. 302).