15. From Jerusalem to Jericho, the Ford of Jordan,the Dead Sea, and back to Jerusalem via Mar Saba.

Riders from Jerusalem to Jericho take 6 hrs., the Jordan, 1 1/2 hr., the Dead Sea, 1 hr. 20 min., Mâr Sabâ, 5 hrs., Jerusalem, 3 hrs. (or to Bethlehem, about 2 3/4 hrs.). — Carriage Road from Jerusalem to Jericho (carr. in 5 hrs.). Driving is practicable also to the Jordan and the Dead Sea, except in wet weather when the final stage becomes too soft. In this case, donkeys may be hired at Jericho. A Carriage for the whole trip costs 50-60 fr. — A small STEAMER, belonging to the government, has recently been placed on the Dead Sea. — visit to Mâr Sâbâ is possible for riders only (horse or donkey). Those who prefer to drive to Jericho should therefore combine the visit to Mâr Sâbâ with that to Bethlehem (p. 161). — For this excursion the traveller must be provided with a guide from Abu Dîs (p. 149; inquire at the hotels). The right of escorting travellera is in the hands of the shékh of this village. It is customary to pay the shékh 1 mejidi per day and to give the guide himself, if well-conducted, 1/2-1 mej. at the end of the journey. A letter of introduction for Mâr Sâbâ should be procured with the aid of the hotel-keeper, or consul, from the great Greek monastery at Jerusalem, as otherwise the traveller will not be admitted. — A Dragooman may be dispensed with on this tour by male travellers, as there is good accommodation at Jericho. The dragomans often make exorbitant demands, but one may generally be hired at a rate of 60 fr. for each of a party of several persons (on horseback) for the three days, unless tents are to be taken. — The circuit may be made in either direction. Owing to the heat of the climate in the valley of the Jordan, the excursion should be made as early in spring, or as late in autumn as possible. Travellers should not forget to take drinking water with them when visiting the Dead Sea.

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Beyond Bethany our route ascends a hill. On the left, 7 min. from the village, is the so-called Stone of Rest, about 3 ft. long, which pilgrims kiss. It marks the spot where Martha met Jesus (John xi. 20). A little to the S. of this stone, on the right of the road, the Greeks have erected a chapel (and convent) on ancient foundation walls. The chapel encloses the stone which they believe to be the genuine one. The Arabic name of the place is El-Juneineh, or 'little garden'. To the S. the village of Abu Dîs is visible. After 7 min. more, we descend into the Wâdi el-Hôd, or valley of the watering-place, so named from the Hôd el-'Azarîyeh, which we reach in 1/4 hr., the only well between this and the valley of the Jordan. The small basin contains leeches, and the water is not very good.

A handsome building once enclosed the spring, and there was a khân here, both probably built in the 16th century. Since the 15th cent, the well has been called the Apostles' Spring, as it was assumed that the apostles must have drunk of its water on their journey. Its identification with the 'sun-spring' of En-Shemesh (Joshua xv. 7) is doubtful.

The route now descends the Wâdi el-Hôd, a somewhat barren valley. After 25 min. we leave to the right the small Wâdi el-Jemel ('camel valley'); after 52 min. we reach Wâdi es-Sidr (for the 'sidr' tree. After 12 min. a small valley called Sa'b el-Meshak lies on the left. In 23 min. more we reaoh the Khân Hadrûr, which has been newly erected and lies about halfway to Jericho. Good water and, in the season, refreshments may be obtained here. This district is quite deserted, and tradition localises the parable of the Good Samaritan here (St. Luke x. 30-37). Ahove the khân is the 'hill of blood', Tel'at ed-Dam, with ruins of a mediæval castle. The name, which is probably due to the red colour of the rock, has led to the supposition that the spot is the 'going up to Adummim' (Joshua xv. 7; xviii. 17). After 20 min. more a path to the right leads to the Khân el-Ahmar, which was probably once a castle for the protection of the road. The valley to the right is the Wâdi er- Rummâneh ( 'valley of pomegranates'). In 20 min. we obtain a view of a plain to the right. This part of the road, is called 'Akabet el-Jerâd ('ascent of the locusts'), and the mountains here form a large amphitheatre. After 1/2 hr. we obtain a view to the left into the deep Wâdi el-Kelt, the lower portion of the Wâdi Fâra. It winds down to the Jordan through deep ravines, and contains water during the greater part of the year. It has been supposed to be identical with the valley of Achor (Joshua xv. 7) and again with the brook Cherith (1 Kings xvii. 3, 5). The brook is carried along the S. slope of the hill by a long conduit. The view gradually develops itself, and, at length, we perceive the Dead Sea with its dark-blue waters. After another hour we again have the Wâdi el-Kelt below us, and in 20 min. more we obtain a complete view of the vast plain of Jordan. The two ruined houses, called Bêt Jeber (the upper and the lower), perhaps occupy the site of the ancient castles of Thrax and Tauros which once defended the pass. On the right, farther on (10 min,), is the ruin of Khirbet el-Kdkun at the foot of the hill.

From this point a footpath on the }eft (not practicable for horses) descends the Wâdi el-Kelt to (20 min.) the Greek monastery Dér Wâdi el-Kelt, used as a kind of penitentiary for Greek priests. The remarkable building is curiously built in a cavern in the left side of the valley. The substructures date from the ancient monastery of Khoziba (ZDPV. iii. 12 f.), founded in 535, but the upper portion is modern. Travellers who make this interesting digression may either retrace their steps to the road, or follow the path (for steady heads only) down the left bank, rejoining the horses in the plain of Jordan near the Tell Abu 'Aldik.

On the right of the road, to the E. of El-Kakûn, we perceive the ancient Birket Mûsâ, or Pool of Moses, with walls composed of small unhewn stones. It is 188 yds. long and 157 yds. wide, and belonged to the ancient system of conduits which once irrigated this district and rendered it a paradise. This is perhaps the remains of a pool constructed by Herod near his palace at Jericho; for this, it appears, is the site of the Jericho of the New Testament. The hill rising like an artificial mound from the plain is Tell Abu 'Alâik ('hill of the bloodsuckers'). After 25 min. the road leads beneath a handsome aqueduct with ten pointed arches, where the Wâdi el-Kelt is crossed. Travellers with tents here turn direct to the N., without entering the modern Jericho (Erîha), and pass the artificial Tell es- Sâmerât, to the Sultan's Spring, to which other travellers also should make an excursion. The vegetation has by this time become very luxuriant. In 7 min. we reach the village.

Jericho

We visited the fountain the prophet Elisha sweetened (it is sweet yet,) where he remained some time and was fed by the ravens.

Ancient Jericho is not very picturesque as a ruin. When Joshua marched around it seven times, some three thousand years ago, and blew it down with his trumpet, he did the work so well and so completely that he hardly left enough of the city to cast a shadow. The curse pronounced against the rebuilding of it, has never been removed. One King, holding the curse in light estimation, made the attempt, but was stricken sorely for his presumption. Its site will always remain unoccupied; and yet it is one of the very best locations for a town we have seen in all Palestine.