The town presents few objects of interest. Following the Roman road to the S. for 1/2 M., we see, on the right, the colossal remains of an Amphitheatre, which, according to an inscription preserved at Monte Cassino , was erected by Ummidia Quadratilla at her own expense. The foundress is mentioned by Pliny in his letters (vii. 24) as a lady of great wealth, who even in her old age was an ardent admirer of theatrical performances. A little higher up stands a square monument built of large blocks of travertine, now converted into the church Del Crocefisso (custodian 15-20 c. ; interesting), with four niches and a dome. Opposite, on the bank of the Rapido, lay the villa of M. Terentius Varro, where, as we are informed by Cicero (Phil. ii. 40), M. Antony afterwards indulged in his wild orgies. — The path leading back to the town from the Croceflsso is probably the ancient Via Latina, and traces of ancient pavement are occasionally observed. From this path, by keeping to the high ground to the left, we may proceed direct to Monte Cassino.
A Visit to Monte Cassino requires about 5 hrs.. The road (1 ½ hr.) affords exquisite views of the valley of the Garigliano and the surrounding mountains.
The monastery of *Monte Cassino (1715 ft.) was founded by St. Benedict in 529, on the site of an ancient temple of Apollo, to which Dante alludes (Parad. xxii. 37), and from its magnificent situation alone would be entitled to a visit. The monastery, which was declared a 'National Monument' in 1866, and continues its existence in the form of an ecclesiastical educational establishment with about 40 monks and 200 pupils, has ever been conspicuous for the admirable manner in which its inmates have discharged their higher duties. The revenues once amounted to 100,000 ducats per annum, but are now reduced to about 80,000 fr, The extensive edifice resembles a castle rather than a monastery and accommodates in all about 350 inmates. Travellers who wish to dine or spend the night here (better at Cassino, ) should apply immediately on arriving to the padre forestieraio. Ladies are accommodated in a building outside the monastery. Guests should contribute to the monastic fund at least as much as they would pay in a hotel for similar accommodation.
The present entrance was constructed in 1881, to the right of the original low passage through the rock, which is now reserved for princes and cardinals. Near the latter St. Benedict is said to have had his cell, which has lately been restored and decorated with frescoes in the Egyptian style by German Benedictines. Several Courts are connected by arcades. The first, adorned with statues of St. Benedict and his sister St. Scholastica, has a fountain of excellent water. On a square space higher up, enclosed by columns from the ancient temple of Apollo, stands the Church, erected in 1637-1727 to replace the ancient edifice founded by St. Benedict. The fortunes of the abbey are recorded in Latin above the entrance of the hall. The principal door of the church is of bronze and is inscribed with a list, inlaid in silver, of all the possessions of the abbey in 1066. It was executed at Constantinople by order of the Abbot Desiderius, afterwards (1086) Pope Victor III. The interior is decorated with marble, mosaics, and paintings. On each side of the high-altar is a sepulchral monument; one to the memory of Piero de' Medici , who was drowned after the battle on the Garigliano in 1503, executed by Francesco Sangallo by order of Clement VII. ; the other that of Guidone Fieramosca, last Prince of Mignano. Beneath the high-altar, with its rich marble decorations, repose the remains of St. Benedict and St. Scholastica. The subterranean chapel contains paintings by Marco da Siena and Mazzaroppi. The choir-stalls are adorned with admirable carving (by Colicciot 1696), and the chapels adjoining the altar with costly mosaics. In the choir also are four paintings by Solimena. Above the doors and on the ceiling are frescoes by Luca Giordano (1677), representing the miracles of St. Benedict and the foundation of the church. The organ is one of the finest in Italy. In the refectory is a 'Miracle of the Loaves', by Bassano.
At a very early period the Library was celebrated for the MSS. executed by the monks. To the Abbot Desiderius of the 11th cent, we are probably indebted for the preservation of Varro, and perhaps of other authors. The handsome saloon at present contains a collection of about 10,000 vols., among which are numerous rare editions published during the infancy of the printer's art. The MSS. and documents are preserved in the Archives, in the passage leading to which a number of inscriptions are built into the wall, most of them rescued from the ruins of the ancient Casinum. Among the MSS. are: the commentary of Origen on the Epistle to the Romans, translated by Rufus, dating from the 6th cent. ; a Dante with marginal notes, of the 14th cent, (the archives contain an interesting portrait of the poet) ; the vision of the monk Alberic (12th cent.), which is said to have suggested the first idea on which Dante founded his work ; various classical authors, the original MSS. of Leo of Ostia and Riccardo di San Germano, etc. The archives also comprise a collection of about 800 documents of emperors, kings, dukes, etc., and the complete series of papal bulls which relate to Monte Cassino, beginning with the 11th cent., many of them with admirable seals and illuminations. Among the letters are those exchanged by Don Erasmo Gattola, the historian of the abbey, with learned contemporaries. At the end of an Italian translation of Boccaccio1s 'De Claris Mulieribus’ is a letter of Sultan Mohammed II. to Pope Nicholas IV., complaining of the pontiffs preparations for war and promising to be converted as soon as he should visit Rome, together with an unfavourable answer from the pope. An ancient bath-seat in rosso antico, found on the bank of the Liris, is also preserved here. —- The Pinacotheca contains pictures by Novelli, Spagnoletto, and others.
The monastery commands a magnificent *Prospect in all directions, which the visitor should not omit to enjoy from the different points of view. To the W. and S. extends the broad valley of the Garigliano with its numerous villages, separated from the Gulf of Gaeta by a range of hills; the sea is occasionally distinguishable. To the E. is the valley of San Germano, commanded by the rocky summits of the Abrazzi. To the N. a wild mountainous district.
Close to the Monte Cassino rises the Monte Cairo (5480 ft.), which may be ascended in 3-4 hrs. (guides at the monastery); the view from the summit is said to be one of the finest in Italy.