After visits to Maryborough and some other Australian towns, we presently took passage for New Zealand. If it would not look too much like showing off, I would tell the reader where New Zealand is; for he is as I was; he thinks he knows. And he thinks he knows where Hertzegovina is; and how to pronounce pariah; and how to use the word unique without exposing himself to the derision of the dictionary. But in truth, he knows none of these things. There are but four or five people in the world who possess this knowledge, and these make their living out of it.

November 5 Tuesday – Early in the morning, the Mararoa arrived at Bluff, South Island, New Zealand, the country’s southernmost port. Livy and Clara stayed aboard. Sam and Carlyle G. Smythe took a train to Invercargill (pop.10,000). Sam made notes on the “rabbit plague” in N.Z. and on the scenery. Shillingsburg notes that NZ advertisements began on Oct. 31 but until Nov.

November 6 Wednesday – Sam and Carlyle G. Smythe left Invercargill headed for Dunedin. On the train Sam was given news of the Melbourne Cup (Nov. 5) where “everybody bet on the wrong horse — a new horse [Auraria] won.” Aboard the train Sam’s notes later were incorporated into his travel book:

November 7 Thursday – Sam wrote in FE and in his notebook of Dunedin and events there:

The town justifies Michael Davitt’s praises. The people are Scotch. They stopped here on their way from home to heaven — thinking they had arrived. The population is stated at 40,000, by Malcom Ross, journalist; stated by an M.P. at 60,000. A journalist cannot lie.

To the residence of Dr. Hockin. He has a fine collection of books relating to New Zealand; and his house is a museum of Maori art and antiquities [FE ch. XXX 287].

November 8 Friday – In Dunedin, N.Z., it was a rainy, windy day and Sam noted, “This is the beginning of N Z summer, I was told” [NB 34 TS 33]. Livy and Clara went to a tea at a “charming place” possibly meeting two young girls named Whyte and Tait. This may have been a luncheon party given by Mrs. Royse at Leith House. (In his Nov. 9 notebook entry, Sam calls them “Marion White & Miss Tait — Scotch descent” [NB 34 TS 33].

November 9 Saturday – In the morning in Dunedin the Clemens party visited an art gallery with William Matthew Hodgkins, attorney who had opened the annual exhibition of the Society of Artists the evening before. In his notebook he mentions one particular painting: “Dickens’ son-in-law’s lovely picture of a girl blowing at a flower” [NB 34 TS 33]. Sam wrote in FE of the exhibition:

November 10 Sunday – In Timaru Sam was driven around the town and down to the beach, where he viewed the Elginshire, shipwrecked on May 9, 1892. He wrote, “big flowering mills; wonderful opaline clouds…a pretty town & cosy pretty homes all around it. Plenty of greenery & flowers…broom & gorse.” About the botanical gardens he wrote, “Why haven’t we have these?” [Shillingsburg, At Home; NB 34 TS 37]

November 11 Monday – Sam backtracked from Timaru to Oamaru by train, arriving in the early afternoon, and was driven around Claremont by a local, W. Evans. He got a look at the steamer Flora, in which he would sail from Christchurch to Wellington a week later.

November 12 Tuesday – Four miles outside of Oamaru, Sam lunched with John F. Miles, probably on his sheep ranch. Afterward Sam and Carlyle G. Smythe traveled the 150 miles to Christchurch, N.Z., “the city of the plains.” He was met by President of the Savage Club and Savages; and by Joseph J. Kinsey and family, and Mr. A.J. Peacock.

November 13 Wednesday – In Christchurch, N.Z, at the Theatre Royal, the audience sang “For he’s a jolly good fellow” while waiting for Sam to come on stage. He arrived to cheers, stomps, and loud applause for several minutes. After the enthusiasm subsided he gave his No. 1 program of “At Home.”

November 14 Thursday – In Christchurch’s Theatre Royal, Sam gave his No. 2 program of “At Home,” which contained his “Morals Sermon” with the watermelon story, the Jumping Frog, the Nevada duel, and Huck, Tom and Jim discussing the Crusades. His second talk was well received. After the intermission he told the Mrs. McWilliams lightning story “with a good deal of graphic force” [Shillingsburg, At Home 148]. Reviews published Nov. 15: Lyttelton Times; The Press; Star [Shillingsburg, “Down Under” 24].

November 15 Friday – In Christchurch, N.Z. this may have been the day Sam visited the Canterbury Museum:

In the museum we saw many curious and interesting things; among others a fine native house of the olden time…and the totem-posts were there, ancestor above ancestor, with tongues protruded and hands clasped comfortably over bellies containing other people’s ancestors — grotesque and ugly devils, every one, but lovingly carved, and ably; and the stuffed natives were present…looking as natural as life….

November 16 Saturday – In Christchurch, N.Z., Sam lunched with the Canterbury Club. Joseph Kinsey and daughter May went with the Clemens party to Lyttelton, 12 miles on the train. The Clemenses carried 35 gifts including Maori artifacts. Kinsey also gave Sam a stuffed platypus (ornithorhyncus). Kinsey took photographs in Christchurch and would send them to the Clemenses in Wellington. At midnight they sailed in the Union Company’s Flora for Wellington.

November 17 Sunday – At about 5 p.m. in Wellington, N.Z. the Clemens party changed to a smaller ship, the Union Co.’s Mahinapua, captained by W.J. Newton [Shillingsburg, “Down Under” 25]. It sailed at 8 p.m. From FE:

November 18 Monday – At about 4:30 a.m. the Mahinapua was grounded for a half hour on a sandbar in French Pass. From FE:

November 19 Tuesday – The Clemens party arrived in New Plymouth, N.Z. where they stayed “all day” sailing again on the Mahinapua at 10 p.m. for Auckland. On board ship they met Archbishop Redmond and a priest. No record is given for the group’s activities in New Plymouth.

November 20 Wednesday – The Mahinapua sailed through the Taranaki Bight on the west coast of North Island. Passengers were unable to see Mt. Egmont due to heavy mist. The ship arrived in Auckland around 6 p.m. and the Clemens party took rooms at the Star Hotel on Albert St., Auckland’s “leading hotel.” Sam met an Englishman, “a fine large Briton a little frosted with age,” who had fought in the West during the American Civil War and was now working at the hotel as a porter.

November 21 Thursday – In Auckland once again, Sam went sightseeing with unnamed friends and liked what he saw:

November 22 Friday – In Auckland the Clemens family went to the Public Library with the librarian and town clerk. In the afternoon they took a drive with W. Douglas, President of the Journalists’ Institute, to “the grassy crater-summit of Mount Eden.” In the evening Sam gave his (No.2) “morals” lecture “At Home” to another 1,100 at Auckland City Hall. On this occasion he included the Australian poem but left out the “Golden Arm” tale. Reviews published Nov.

November 23 Saturday – In Auckland, N.Z.: Sam’s notebook: to Kauri Gum establishment of Ameri firm of Arnold, Cheney & Co — large exporters to Amer [NB 34 TS 40].

November 24 Sunday – In Auckland, Livy wrote to her sister, Sue Crane:

Saturday we [lunched] at Bishopscourt, which is the bishop’s palace here…the bishop was interesting, but I found his wife still more so.

November 25 Monday – At the Star Hotel in Auckland, Sam stayed in bed to rest up for his evening performance, his last in Auckand. He’d been plagued by more carbuncles, as he related in a letter to Dr. R.H. Bakewell, a prominent New Zealand scientist, so he was taking it easy,

November 26 Tuesday – The Clemens party sailed from Auckland at 3 p.m. on the Union Co.’s Rotomahana. Shillingsburg: “They had arrived at Auckland’s western port near Onehunga, crossed through the city and departed from the northeastern shore on their way to Gisborne and Napier on the east coast” [At Home 161]. Sam wrote:

November 27 Wednesday – Livy’s 50th birthday. Sam’s notebook on the event:

Nov. 27. Livy’s birthday. I claimed that her birthday has either passed or is to come; that it is the 27th as the 27th exists in America, not here where we have flung out a day & closed up the vacancy [NB 34 TS 42].

November 28 Thursday – Early in the morning the Rotomahana reached Napier (pop. 9,000), a stop scheduled for two of Sam’s lectures. Sam noted a new pier, and “beautiful green bluffs” below the town, and “A handsome beach of prodigious length” [NB 34 TS 43]. They took rooms at Frank Moeller’s Masonic Hotel overlooking the sea. Sam didn’t care for three cages of canaries that decorated the long porch. He wrote in his notebook: