July 30 Tuesday – Another travel day, interesting as witnessed by Sam’s notebook and Pond’s diary:
July 30. In northern Dakotah; no more wheat; but grass and billowy, rolling, just the Great Plains.
Struck the Missouri at Williston D & followed it several hours to Fort Buford, a large post — 7 p.m. on the border of Montana [NB 35 TS 19].
J.B. Pond’s diary:
We left Crookston at 5:40 A.M.; were up at 4:30, Everybody was cheerful; there was no grumbling. This is our first unseasonable hour for getting up, but it has done us all good. Even Clara enjoyed the unique experience. It revived her memory. She recollected that she had telegraphed to Elmira to have her winter cloak expressed to Crookston. Fortunately the agent was sleeping in the express office, near the station. We disturbed his slumbers to find the great cloak, which was another acquisition to our sixteen pieces of hand baggage. Our train was forty-five minutes late. “Mark” complained and grumbled; he persisted that I had contracted with him to travel and not to wait about railway stations at five o’clock in the mornings for late trains that never arrived. He insisted on travelling, so he got aboard the baggage truck and I travelled him up and down the platform, while Clara made a snap shot as evidence that I was keeping to the letter of my contract.
When we boarded the train, we found five lower berths (which means five sections) ready for us. There was a splendid dining car, with meals a la carte, and excellent cooking. All the afternoon there were the level prairies of North Dakota wheat just turning, the whole country a lovely green; then came the arid plains, the prairie-dog towns, cactus, buffalo grass, jack rabbits, wild life and the Missouri River — dear old friend that had borne both of us on her muddy bosom many a time. It was a great day for both “Mark” and me. The ladies were enthusiastic in proportion as they saw that “Mark” and I were boys again, travelling upon “our native heath” [Eccentricities of Genius 208-9].
Scharnhorst gives the interview, “Mark Twain Talks,” Grand Forks Herald, p.4 for this date (see excerpt quoted in July 28 entry) [Interviews 164-5].
Susy Clemens wrote to her sister Clara, sending it to the Park Hotel to be forwarded to Helena, Mont. And signing it “Porc Pigg!”
Your letters are a perfect delight and the last is joy indeed! It is so vivid and so histrionic! What great adventures you are having! I sometimes wish I were with you with all my heart. Your description of getting to Duluth with straight to my dramatic heart of hearts! Didn’t you relish that evening, and driving to the theater as you did? I can see it all as clearly as if I were with you, you and Mamma laughing at men in the audience and everything else you describe. Oh dear, much of it must be immense. And the photographs Mamma sent are wonderful. My how natural you and Mamma do look in your veils and your traveling hats! I feel as if I must be with you and as if these were pictures of our wanderings in Europe. Well write me more of these heavenly vivid letters full of all your wonderful “experiences” for you are having a fund of them. Aren’t you glad you are making the globular trip? [MTP].