This is Richard Burton’s itinerary for his journey from St. Joseph, Missouri to Salt Lake City, Utah. The text was initially clipped from the Google Books edition then verified using Fawn Brodie’s edition. Both of these editions had an erroneous date for Burton's arrival in Salt Lake City, August 28. He actually arrived on the 25th. (The City of the Saints).

  • 1. August 7, 1860: 9:30 am to 3:00 pm: 20-24 miles: Leave St. Joseph, Missouri, in N . lat. 39° 40', and W . long. 94°50'. Cross Missouri River by steam ferry. Five miles of bottom land, bend in river and settlements . Over rolling prairie 2000 feet above sea level. After 6 miles, Troy, capital of Doniphan Co., Kansas Territory, about a dozen shanties. Dine and change mules at Cold Spring -- good water and grass. Road from Fort Leavenworth (N . lat. 39° 21' 14 ", and W . long. 94° 44') falls in at Cold Spring, distant 15 miles. From St. Jo to Cold Spring there are two routes, one lying north of the other, the former 20, the latter 24 miles in length.
  • 2. August 7, 1860: 4:00 pm to 8:00 pm: 22-23 miles: After 10 miles, Valley Home, a whitewashed shanty. At Small Branch on Wolf River, 12 miles from Cold Spring, is a fiumara on the north of the road, with water, wood, and grass. Here the road from Fort Atchinson falls in . Kennekuk Station, 44 miles from St. Joseph. Sup and change mules
  • 3. August 7-8, 1860: 9:00 pm to 1:00 am: 25 miles: Two miles beyond Kennekuk is the first of the three Grasshopper Creeks, flowing after rain to the Kansas River. Road rough and stony; water, and grass. our miles beyond the First Grasshopper is Whitehead, a young settlement on Big Grasshopper, water in pools, wood , and grass . Five and a half miles beyond is Walnut Creek , in Kickapoo Co.: pass over corduroy bridge; roadside dotted with shanties. Thence to Locknan's, or Big Muddy Station
  • 4. August 8, 1860: 3:00 am to 6:00 am: 18 miles: Seventeen miles beyond Walnut Creek, the Third Grasshopper, also falling into the Kansas River. Good camping -ground . Ten miles beyond lies Richland, deserted site. Thence to Seneca, capital of Nemehaw Co. A few shanties on the N. bank of Big Nemehaw Creek , a tributary of the Missouri River, which affords water, wood, and grass.
  • 5. August 8, 1860: 8:00 am to 12:00 noon: 20 miles: Cross Wildcat Creek and other nullahs. Seven| miles beyond Seneca lies Ash Point, a few wooden huts, thence to “ Uncle John's Grocery," where liquor and stores are procurable. Eleven miles from Big Nemehaw, water, wood, and grass are found at certain seasons near the head of a ravine. Thence to Vermilion Creek , which heads to the N .E., and enters the Big Blue 20 miles above its mouth . The ford is miry after rain, and the banks are thickly wooded . Water is found in wells 40 -43 feet deep. Guittard's Station.
  • 6. August 8, 1860: 1:00 pm to 6:00 pm: 25 miles: Fourteen miles from Guittard's, Marysville , capital of Washington Co., affords supplies and a black smith . Then ford the Big Blue, tributary to Kansas River, clear and swift stream . Twelve miles W . of Marysville is the frontier line between Kansas and Nebraska. Thence to Cottonwood Creek, fields in hollow near the stream .
  • 7. August 8, 1860: 6:00 pm to 11:00 pm: 26 miles: Store at the crossing very dirty and disorderly. Good water in spring 400 yards N . of the road; wood and grass abundant. Seventeen and a half miles from the Big Blue is Walnut Creek, where emigrants encamp. Thence to West Turkey or Rock Creek in Nebraska Territory, a branch of the Big Blue : its approximate altitude is 1485 feet
  • 8. August 9, 1860: 12:00 midnight to 4:00 am: 23 miles: After 19 miles of rough road and musquetoes, cross Little Sandy, 5 miles E. of Big Sandy; water and trees plentiful. There Big Sandy deep and heavy bed. Big Sandy Station
  • 9. August 9, 1860: 6:00 am to 10:00 am: 19 miles: Cross hills forming divide of Little Blue River, ascending valley 60 miles long. Little Blue fine stream of clear water falling into Kansas River; every where good supplies and good camping ground. Along left bank to Kiowa.
  • 10. August 9, 1860: 11:00 am to 3:00 pm: 25 miles: Rough road of spurs and gullies runs up a valley 2 miles wide. Well wooded chiefly with cottonwood , and grass abundant. Ranch at Liberty Farm, on the Little Blue
  • 11. August 9, 1860: 4:00 pm to 9:00 pm: 24 miles: Cross divide between Little Blue and Platte River; rough road ,musquetoes troublesome. Approximate altitude of dividing ridge 2025 feet. Station at Thirty-two-Mile Creek , a small wooded and winding stream flowing into the Little Blue.
  • 12. August 9-10, 1860: 10:30 pm to 8:00 am: 34 miles: After 27 miles strike the Valley of the Platte,along the southern bank of the river, over level ground, good for camping, fodder abundant. After 7 miles Fort Kearney in N . lat.40° 38'45'',and W . long. 98°58 ' 11" : approximate altitude 2500 feet above sea level. Groceries, cloths, provisions, and supplies of all kinds are to be procured from the sutler's store. Beyond Kearney a rough and bad road leads to “ Seventeen-Mile Station "
  • 13. August 10, 1860: 9:30 am to 1:15 pm: 21 miles: Along the south bank of the Platte. Buffalo chips used for fuel. Sign of buffalo appears. Plum Creek Station on a stream where there is a bad crossing in wet weather
  • 14. August 10, 1860: 2:30 pm to 8:00 pm: 25 miles: Beyond Plum Creek , Willow -Island Ranch , where supplies are procurable. Road along the Platte, wood scarce, grass plentiful, buffalo abounds; after 20 miles “ Cold -Water Ranch .” Halt and change at Midway Station
  • 15. August 10-11, 1860: 9:00 pm to 1:45 am: 27 miles: Along the Valley of the Platte, road muddy after rain , fuel scarce, grass abundant, camp traces every where. Ranch at Cotton -wood Station, at this season the western limit of buffalo.
  • 16. August 11, 1860: 6:15 am to 11:00 am: 30 miles: Up the Valley of the Platte. No wood ; buffalo chips for fuel. Good camping-ground ; grass on small branch of the Platte. To Junction -House Ranch, and thence to station at Frémont Springs.
  • 17. August 11, 1860: 12:00 noon to 5:00 pm: 25 miles: Road passes O 'Fallon 's Bluffs. “ Half-way House,” a store and ranch , distant 120 miles from Fort Kearney, 400 from St. Joseph , 40 from the Low er Crossing, and 68 from the Upper Crossing of the South Fork (Platte River). The station is called Alkali Lake.
  • 18. August 11, 1860: 6:00 pm to 10:15 pm: 25 miles: Road along river ; no timber ; grass, buffalo chips, and musquetocs. Station at Diamond Springs near Lower Crossing.
  • 19. August 11-12, 1860: 11:00 pm to 3:15 am: 25 miles: Road along river. Last 4 miles very heavy sand, avoided by Lower Crossing Poor accommodation at Upper Ford or Crossing on the eastern bank, where the mail passes the stream en route to Great Salt Lake City, and the road branches to Denver City and Pike's Peak
  • 20. August 12, 1860: 6:30 am to 12:45 pm: 35 miles: Ford Platte 600 yards wide, 2.50 feet deep , bed gravelly and solid, easy ford in dry season . Cross divide between North and South Forks, along| the bank of Lodge-Pole Creek . Land arid ; wild sage for fuel. Lodge - Pole Station
  • 21. August 12, 1860: 3:00 pm to 5:45 pm: 25 miles: Up Lodge-Pole Creek over a spur of table-land ; then, striking over the prairie, finishes the high divide between the Forks. Approximate altitude 3500 feet. On the right is Ash Hollow , where there is plenty of wood and a small spring . The station is Mud Springs, a poor ranch
  • 22. August 13, 1860: 8:00 am to 12:30 pm: 25 miles: Route lies over a rolling divide between the Forks, crossing Omaha, Lawrence, and other creeks, where water and grass are procurable. Cedar is still found in hill-gullies. About half a milel north of Chimney Rock is a ranch where the cattle are changed
  • 23. August 13, 1860: 1:30 pm to 5:30 pm: 24 miles: Road along the south bank of North Ford of Platte River. Wild sage the only fuel in the valley : small spring on top of first hill. Rugged labyrinth of paths abreast of Scott's Bluffs, which lie 5 miles S. of river, in N . lat.41°48' 26" , and W . long. 103° 45' 02" . Water found in first ravine of Scott's Bluffs 200 yards below the road, cedars on heights. To station
  • 24. August 13, 1860: 6:30 pm to 8:30 pm: 16 miles: Road along the river; crosses Little Kiowa Creek, a tributary to Horse Creek , which flows into the Platte. Ford Horse Creek, a clear shallow stream with a sandy bottom . No wood below the hills.
  • 25. August 14, 1860: 6:00 am to 10:20 pm (am?): 26 miles: Route over sandy and heavy river bottom and rolling ground, leaving the Platte on the right : cotton -wood and willows on the banks. Ranch at Laramie City kept by M . Badeau, a Canadian , who sells spirits, Indian goods, and outfit .
  • 26. August 14, 1860: 12:15 pm to 4:00 pm: 18 miles: After 9 miles of rough road cross Laramie Fork and enter Fort Laramie, N .lat. 42° 12' 38" ,and W . long. 104°31' 26 ". Altitude 4519 feet. Military post, with post- office, sutler's stores, and other conveniences. Thence To Ward 's Station on the Central Star, small ranch and store .
  • 27. August 14, 1860: 5:00 pm to 9:30 pm: 25 miles: Rough and bad road . After 14 miles cross Bitter Cotton -wood Creek ; water rarely flows; after rain 10 feet wide and 6 inches deep ; grass and fucl abundant. Pass Indian shop and store. At Bitter Creek branch of Cotton -wood the road to Salt Lake City forks. Emigrants follow the Upper or South road over spurs of the Black Hills, some way south of the river, to avoid kanyons and to find grass. The station is called Horseshoe Creek . Residence of road -agent, Mr. Slade, and one of the worst places on the line.
  • 28. August 15, 1860: 10:45 am to 2:45 am (pm ?): 25 miles: Road forks; one line follows the Platte, the other turns to the left, over “ cut-off ;" highly undulating ridges, crooked and deeply dented with dry beds of rivers; land desolate and desert. No wood nor water till end of stage. La Bonié River and Station ; unfinished ranch in valley ; water and grass .
  • 29. August 15, 1860: 4:00 pm to 9:00 pm: 25 miles: Road runs 6 miles (wheels often locked ) on rugged red land, crosses several dry beds of creeks, and springs with water after melting of snow and frosts in dry season, thence into the Valley of the Platte. After 17 miles it crosses the La Prêle (Rush River), a stream 16 feet wide, where water and wood abound. At Box -Elder Creek Station good ranch and comfortable camping- ground .
  • 30. August 16, 1860: 8:30 am to 12:00 noon: 20 miles: Along the Platte River, now shrunk to 100 yards. After 10 miles, M . Bissonette ; at Deer Creek , a post-office,blacksmith 's shop, and store near Indian Agency. Thence a waste of wild sage to Little Muddy, a creek with water. No accommodation nor provisions at station .
  • 31. August 16, 1860: 1:15 pm to 4:15 pm: 18 miles: After 8 miles cross vile bridge over Snow Creek . Thence up the river valley along the S . bank of the Platte to the lower ferry. To Lower Bridge, old station of troops. To Upper Bridge, where the ferry has now been done away with .
  • 32. August 17, 1860: 6:30 am to 12:50 pm: 28 miles: Road ascends a hill 7 miles long ; land rough, barren , and sandy in dry season . After 10 miles, red spring near the Red Buttes, an old trading -place and post-office. Road then leaves the Platte River and strikes over high , rolling, and barren prairie. After 18 miles, “ Devil's Backbone." Station at Willow Springs ; wood, water, and grass; good place for encampment, but no accommodation nor provisions. On this stage mineral and alkaline waters dangerous to cattle abound ..
  • 33. August 17, 1860: 2:30 pm to 9:15 pm: 33 miles: After 3 miles, Green Creek , not to be depended upon , and Prospect Hill, a good look -out. Then, at intervals of 3 miles, Harper's, Woodworth 's, and Greasewood Creeks, followed by heavy sand. At 17 miles, “ Saleratus Lake," on the west of the road . Four miles beyond is “ Independence Rock," Ford Sweetwater, leaving the “ Devil'si Gate” on the right. Pass a blacksmith 's shop. Sage the only fuel. Plante or Muddy Station ; family of Canadians; no conveniences
  • 34. August 18, 1860: 7:00 am to 11:00 am: 25 miles: Along the winding banks of the Sweetwater. After 4 miles,“ Alkali Lake” S. of the road . Land dry and stony ; stunted cedars in hills. After 12 miles, the “ Devil's Post-office," a singular bluff on the left of the road, and opposite a ranch kept by a Canadian . Mail station “ Three Crossings," at Ford No. 3 ; excellent water, wood , grass, game, and wild currants
  • 35 . August 19, 1860: 5:45 am to 12:45 pm 35 miles: Up a kanyon of the Sweetwater. Ford the river 5 imes, making a total of 8 . After 16 miles, “ Ice Spings" in a swampy valley, and one quarter of a mile beyond “ Warm Springs.” Then rough descent and waterless stretch . Descend by “ Lander's Cut-off ” into fertile bottom . “ Rocky Ridge Station ;" at Muskrat Creek good cold spring , grass, and sage fuel .
  • 36. August 20, 1860: 7:45 am to 3:00 pm: 35 miles: Up the bed of the creek , and, ascending long hills, leave the Sweetwater. After 4 miles, 3 alkaline ponds S . of the road. Rough path. After 7miles,“ Strawberry Creek,” 6 feet wide; good camping ground ; willows and poplars. One mile beyond is Quaking-Asp Creek, often dry. Three miles beyond lies M 'Achran 's Branch, 33 x 2. Then “ Willow Creek,” 10 X2; good camping -ground . At Ford No. 9 is a Canadian ranch and store . A long table-land leads to “ South Pass ," dividing trip between the Atlantic and Pacific, and thence 2 miles to the station at “ Pacific Springs ;" water, tolerable grass, sage fuel, and musquetoes…
  • 37. August 21, 1860: 8:00 am to 12:30 pm: 33 miles: Cross Miry Creek . Road down Pacific Creek ; water scarce for 20 miles. After 11 miles, “ Dry Sandy Creek ;' water scarce and too brackish to drink ; grass little ; sage and greasewood plentiful. After 16 miles, “ Sublette's Cut-off,” or the “ Dry Drive," turns N . W . to Soda Springs and FortHall : the left fork leads to Fort Bridger and Great Salt Lake City. Four miles beyond the junction is “ Little Sandy Creek,” 20 -25m2; grass, timber, and good camping-ground. Eight miles beyond-is “ Big Sandy Creek,” clear, swift, and with good crossing, 110 x 2. The southern route is the best ; along the old road, no water for 49 miles. Big Sandy Creek Station.
  • 38. August 21, 1860: 1:45 pm to 6:30 pm: 32 miles: Desolate road cuts off the bend of the river ; no grass nor water. After 12 miles, “ Simpson 's Hollow ." Fall into the Valley of Green River, half a mile wide, water 110 yards broad . After 201 miles, Upper Ford ; Lower Ford 7 miles below Upper. Good camping-ground on bottom ; at the station in Green River, grocery, stores, and ferry-boat when there is high water.
  • 39. August 22, 1860: 8:00 am to 12:00 noon: 24 miles: Diagonal ford over Green River ; a good camping ground in bottom . Follow the valley for 4 miles; grass and fuel. Michel Martin 's store and grocery . The road leaves the river and crosses a waterless divide to Black 's Fork, 100 x 2 ; grass and fuel. Wretched station at Ham 's Fork .
  • 40. August 22, 1860: 2:00 pm to 5:15 pm: 20 miles: Ford Ham 's Fork . After 12 miles the road forks at the 2d striking of Ham 's Fork , both branches leading to Fort Bridger. Mail takes the left hand path. Then Black 's Fork, 20 x 2 , clear and pretty valley, with grass and fuel, cotton-wood and yellow currants. Cross the stream 3 times. After 12 miles, “ Church Butte.” Ford Smith 's Fork, 30 feet wide and shallow , a tributary of Black 's Fork. Station at Millersville on Smith 's Fork ; large store and good accommodation
  • 41. August 23, 1860: 8:30 am to 12:15 pm: 25 miles: Road runs up the valley of Black 's Fork . After 12 miles, Fort Bridger, in N . lat.41°18 ' 12'', and W . long. 110° 32' 23'', on Black 's Fork of Green River. Commands Indian trade, fuel, corn ; little grass. Post - office, sutler's store, grocery, and other conveniences. Thence rough and rolling ground to Muddy Creek Hill ; steep and stony descent. Over a fertile bottom to Big Muddy and Little Muddy Creek, which emptiesinto Black 's Fork below Fort Bridger . At Muddy Creek Station there is a Canadian, provisions, excellent milk ; no stores
  • 42. August 23, 1860: 12:00 noon to 5:30 pm: 20 miles: Rough country. The road winds along theridge to Quaking-Asp Hill, 7900 (8400 ?) feet above sea level. Steep descent; rough and broken ground. After 18 miles, Sulphur Creek Valley ; stagnant stream , flowing after rain ; ford bad and muddy. Station in the fertile valley of Bear River, which turns northward and flows into the east side of the lake; wood, grass, and water. Poor accommodations at Bear River Station
  • 43. August 24, 1860: 8:15 am to 2:30 pm: 36 miles: Road runs by Needle Rocks ; falls into the Valley of Egan's Creek . “ Cache Cave" on the right hand. Three miles below the Cave is Red Fork in Echo Kanyon ; unfinished station at the entrance. Rough road ; steep ascents and descents along Red Creek Station on Weber River,which falls into Salt Lake south of Bear River
  • 44. August 24, 1860: 4:30 pm to 7:45 pm: 22 miles: Road runs down the Valley of the Weber. Ford the river. After 54 miles is a salt spring,where the road leaves the river to avoid a deep kanyon , and turns to the left into a valley with rough paths, trying to wheels. Then crosses a mountain , and, ascending a long hill,descends to Bauchmin 's Creek , tributary to Weber River. Creek 18 feet wide, swift, pebbly bed , good ford ; grass and fuel abundant. The station is called Carson 's House ; accommodations of the worst
  • 45. August 25, 1860: 7:00 am to 7:17 pm: 29 miles: Ford Bauchmin's Creek 13 times in 8 miles. After 2 miles along a small water-course ascend Big Mountain , whence first view of Great Salt Lake City, 12 miles distant. After 14 miles, Big Kanyon Creek . Six miles farther the road leaves Big Kanyon Creek, and after a steep ascent and descent makes Emigration Creek. Cross Little Mountain , 2 miles beyond Big Mountain ; road rough and dangerous. Five miles from Emigration Kanyon to Great Salt Lake City. Road through " Big Field" 6 miles square

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