November 5, 1878 Tuesday

– Sam’s notebook:

“…spent all day in Vedder’s lofty studio & the evening  with him & another artist spinning yarns & drinking beer in a quiet  saloon. Big row in the street but no bloodshed.” 

 Elihu Vedder was an American artist who kept a studio in  Rome. Sam visited the studio several times [MTNJ 2:  242]. (See Nov. 9 entry.)

November 1, 1878 Friday

–  Sam’s notebook:

“Great festa-day—shops all closed. Attended High Mass in a  chapel of St. Peters. Heaps of people of all ages sexes & professions  kissing (& scrubbing) St Peter Jupiter’s toe. He looks like a black negro  & has short crisp hair” [MTNJ 2: 239].

November, 1878

November – In Sam’s  notebook there’s an entry “Little Pedlington” which refers to John Poole’s   1839 book, Little Pedlington and the Pedlingtonians. Gribben quotes E.  Cobham Brewer, calling this “an imaginary place, the village of quackery and  can’t, egotism and humbug, affectation and flatter” [553].

Sam noted “Turganieff’s Visions”  and “Visions, a Phantasy, by Tourganieff—in the Galaxy”  in his notebook [MTNJ 2: 244, 247].

October 31, 1878 Thursday

Sam received letters from Will Sage and Joe Twichell about payments required and red tape needed to  get the “two boxes of Clocks” through customs. He  made a note to do a chapter in his book about “this most scoundrelly &  infernal custom house system” [MTNJ 2: 237].

Sam’s notebook:

October 30, 1878 Wednesday

Sam visited the Sistine Chapel,  commenting on work by Raphael. He counted 25 courtyards in the Vatican.  He noted the Tom of the Virgin and wrote “How  she would draw in N.Y.” [MTNJ 2:  237].

Gustavo Sarfatti wrote to Sam (Sept. 29 from  Sarfatti enclosed) [MTP].
 

October 29, 1878 Tuesday

In his notebook, Sam concluded that the “Immaculate  Conception has ceased to be a wearying & worrisome question.” What the  Ecumenical Council should “decide once & forever” was, “who was it that  struck Billy Patterson?” (From Wm. Porter’s collection, The Big Bear  of Arkansas and Other Sketches) [MTNJ 2:  235]. More from Sam’s notebook:

It is the more ridiculous spectacle to see a Virgin or a  copper Aristotle stuck on top of every stately monument of the grand old  “pagan” days of Rome.

October 28, 1878 Monday

The Clemens family left Florence for Rome. The trip took 8 hours  and they arrived at 4:30 PM [MTNJ 2: 235]. The party stayed at  the Hotel d’Allemania. Sam noted the cost of  the rooms, three coffees, one beefsteak and three “table d’hotes” (communal  table, full-course meal) totaling 48.25 francs, paid at 5 PM [281].
 

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