Landing in Bleeding Kansas—she still bleeds [1] —we fell at once into “Emigration Road,” a great thoroughfare, broad and well worn as a European turnpike or a Roman military route, and undoubtedly the best and the longest natural highway in the world. For five miles the line bisected a bottom formed by a bend in the river, with about a mile’s diameter at the neck. The scene was of a luxuriant vegetation.

But the wagon still stands at the door. We ought to start at 8 30 A.M.; we are detained an hour while last words are said, and adieu—a long adieu—is bidden to joke and julep, to ice and idleness. Our “plunder” is clapped on with little ceremony; a hat-case falls open—it was not mine, gentle reader—collars and other small gear cumber the ground, and the owner addresses to the clumsy-handed driver the universal G— d—, which in these lands changes from its expletive or chrysalis form to an adjectival development.

After this apergu of the motives which sent me forth, once more a pilgrim, to young Meccah in the West, of the various routes, and of the style of country wandered over, I plunge at once into personal narrative.

Why I went to Great Salt Lake City:

ROUTE 36.(pages 552-554)

DAMASCUS TO BEYROUT DIRECT,

Damascus to Dummar .. .. 1 15
Dimas ….. 2 30
Mejdel’Anjar .. .. .. . 4 30
El-Merjy .. ..  1 20
Mekseh .. .. ..  1 20
Summit of Lebanon.. .. .. 1 20
Beyrout .. .. .. 6 30
| Total .. .. 18 45

Fast, without baggage.

This route passes only one spot of any interest, the site of Chalcis. The rest of it is dreary; the path none of the best; and except when pressed for time no traveller should think of following it.

ROUTE 38.  BA’ALBEK TO BEYROUT DIRECT.

Ba’albek to Mu’allakah.. 6 OU
Junction of Damascus road .. 2 0
Beyrout (see Rte. 36) 7 50
Total (fast) .. .. 15 50

This road has little to recommend it except its shortness. Rte. 40 will, of course, be selected instead so soon as the snow on Lebanon will permit us to pass over to the Cedars; and should the traveller be obliged to abandon the Cedars, then I recommend Rte. 39.

The slopes of Mt. Gerizim afford a beautiful view of Nâbulus.  By the highest row of gardens we turn to the left (E.), and follow a terrace skirting the rocky slope. The large caverns here were probably once quarries. From the terrace we at length reach a platform, from which projects a triangular piece of rock, about 10 ft. in diameter. This spot accords better than any other with the narrative of Judges ix. 7-21, while the passage Joshua viii. 30-3S applies best to the amphitheatrical bays of Ebal and Gerizim to the E. of Nâbulus.

Joseph’s Tomb.—In the very centre of the valley's mouth, a short distance N. of the well, is a little square area enclosed by a high white wall, and having a common Muslem tomb placed diagonally across the floor—this is the traditional tomb of Joseph. There is nothing about it to interest one, or to give evidence of antiquity; yet it is most probably genuine. Joseph on his death-bed “took an oath of the children of Israel, saying, “God will surely visit you, and ye shall carry up my bones from hence.” (Gen. 1.

Mount Ebal lies on the N. side of the vale of Nâbulus, opposite Gerizim, and is nearly equal to it in altitude. Its sides are somewhat more rugged, and its general outline perhaps bolder than Gerizim. The ascent is not difficult, a goat-path leading up from the town past a little wely. On the summit is a broad stony platform, with a few unimportant ruins; but no traces of what might probably be the altar built by Joshua on which the Law was inscribed. (Josh. viii. 30-35.) The view is wide and interesting, resembling that from Gerizim. About 2m. to the N.E.