Handbook for Travelers:: Page 347
Leaving the Hôtel Victoria, we turn to the left (from the Hôtel Dimitri along the Baradâ) and after a few paces reach an open square, in the centre of which is a fountain surrounded by trees. To the S. of this square is the Serâi (government-offices). On the E. side of the square are the police-offices and beside them (N.) the Café and Restaurant Dimitri (p. 340). We proceed along the N. side of the square, passing the criminal court, the post and telegraph office, and a small café, and then turn to the left into a handsome covered bazaar (mostly fruits and tobacco), called Sûk 'Ali Pasha. We go through this bazaar and reach an extensive square; this is the Horse Market (Sûk el-Khêl). On certain days a horse
market or auction used to be held here early in the morning.
Crossing the market obliquely (to the right), past the open stalls for the sale of barley and other grain, we come to a small bazaar leading to the S., and occupied by shoemakers and some money changers, hence its name Sarrâflîyeh. Beyond the bazaar is a small square with a large tree. To the right (W.) a street diverges to the Serâi (in it are tailors and shoemakers for European work). The corner of this street is filled by the Jâmî es-Sanjakdûr. To the left is a covered bazaar. This is the Saddle Market (Sûk es-Surûjîyeh). The saddles are more gaily than tastefully decorated, and some of them are covered with rich cloth. Besides these the bazaar contains an ample stock of straps, girths, bridles, the peculiar sharp Arabian bits, the broad and clumsy stirrups, pistol-holsters embroidered with silver thread, and many other specimens of leather-work.
From the saddle-market we return to the small square and take the broad street leading to the S. On each side the Coppersmiths (hence the name of the street: Sûk en-Nahhâsîn) noisily pursue their craft. Oriental dinner-services, sometimes adorned with inscriptions, are here displayed on low wooden stands for sale. The principal dish or tray, standing in the middle, is sometimes as much as 6 ft. in diameter. The peasantry and Beduins consider it honourable to possess such large dishes, as they are supposed to indicate the measure of the owner's hospitality. There are also various cooking utensils, including coffee-pots with long spouts, made of copper or brass lined with tin, in which coffee is prepared by being slightly boiled.
A little farther on, to the left, we reach the entrance to the Citadel, guarded by sentries. The view from the battlements is very fine; but strangers are not admitted.
The fortress, a large square structure, was erected by Melik el-Ashraf in the year 580 of the Hegira (1219). It is 310 paces long and 250 wide, and is surrounded by a moat about 19 1/2 ft. wide and 14 1/2 ft. deep. The moat on the S. side is now covered by the Sûk el-Arwâm (p. 849). The walls are very thick, and their substructions are ancient. The principal gate faces the W., and there is a small postern towards the E. At the corners of the castle are projecting towers, twelve in all, with over hanging stories. In the entrance-gateway are four antique columns. Above this gate formerly was a large reception-room with arched windows, but the roof has fallen in.
Immediately beyond the citadel a street diverges to the right to the Brokers' Market [Sûk el-Kumêleh, 'louse-market'), where second hand clothes, old-fashioned firearms, and other articles are bought and sold. A brisk trade is sometimes carried on here. The auctioneer shouts out the word harâj (literally 'raise') and the price last offered, and runs with the article for sale from shop to shop, at one or other of which he is occasionally stopped by a dealer desirous of examining the goods and of making a fresh bid.
A few paces to the right of the brokers' market is the Military Serâi, an extensive building. The Turkish military band plays here daily.
Opposite the military serâi, a little back from the street, is the entrance to the so-called Greek Bazaar (Sûk el-Arwâm), one of the largest at Damascus, rebuilt since its destruction by fire in 1893. Weapons, shawls, carpets, clothing, and antiquities are sold here. The dealers usually importune strangers to buy their 'Damascus' blades and other wares, such as daggers, armour, various weapons, pipes, tobacco-pouches, etc. A small fraction only of the prices they demand should be offered, and they will often gladly sell an article for a fourth of what is first asked. The daggers are mostly modern, the blades being probably of the inferior steel largely imported from Solingen in Germany. The handles of these 'Damascus' weapons are showily enriched with mother-of-pearl and other ornaments. Pretty saucers (zarf) for the small Oriental coffee-cups may sometimes be bought here. Coins and gems are also offered. Long pipe-stems made of the wood of the cork-tree, and gaily decked with gold and silver thread, are among the specialities of this bazaar, but the coloured thread with which they are decorated fades very soon. Pipes and mouth-pieces are also plentiful. This bazaar is also the headquarters of the tailors, chiefly Greeks, many of whom make the European clothes which are now unfortunately becoming common among the Christians. Among the caps will be observed small velvet caps for children, the red fez of European manufacture, the felt hat worn by the peasantry, and the white linen skull caps worn by the natives under the fez. Some 220 yds. from the entrance a narrow lane on the right leads to the German consulate.
The continuation, straight on, of the Greek bazaar, is the broad new bazaar called El-Hamidiyeh, handsomely decorated. It contains several handsomely fltted-up Arab confectioners' establish ments for the sale of ices, which are very popular.
On leaving the Greek bazaar, we turn into a bazaar-street on the left and come to the stalls of the vendors of Water Pipes, the so-called Jôzeh, which are smoked by the peasantry. The cocoa-nut vessels from which they derive their name are mounted with gold and silver, and are fitted with decorated stems to which the bowl is attached. The nut is filled with water, and the smoke is then drawn from it by the tube on the other side.
The continuation of the street leads direct to the citadel, the substructions of which, consisting of large, finely hewn, drafted blocks, are visible beyond a moat. The chief branch of the Baradâ flows past the N. side of the citadel. The best view of this side is obtained by going along the E. side of the citadel, then (after several turnings) through the Bâb el-Ferej (Bâb en-Nasr), an old city-gate, to the sieve-makers' bazaar (Sûk el-Manâkhilîyeh), and after a few paces, entering a café to the left (Cafi ManSkhittyeh). The terrace of this café, planted with trees, looks very picturesque when lighted with coloured lanterns of an evening. The bazaar, which is a main avenue of communication between the centre of the town and the suburb El-'Amâra, leads on to the stonemasons, and then to the market for saddles for donkeys and beasts of burden.
Instead of following the street in a straight direction towards the fortress, we turn diagonally from the Bazaar of the Water Pipes into a lane to the right, the Sûk el-'Asrûnîyeh, flanked with shops, some of which are in the European style, where glass of European manufacture and utensils for the table and the kitchen are sold. On small open tables lies the greenish henna with which the Arab women stain their finger-nails red. Attar of roses in small phials is also offered at a high price. — In the next bazaar (Sûk Bâb el-Berîd, so named from the gate of the mosque, p. 362), which bears a little to the right, begins the long row of stalls belonging to the Drapers, a large proportion of whose wares is European. The street soon leads to the Hamidîyeh (p. 349). About 50 paces further we come to a cross-street. To the left is a small bazaarstreet terminating in a lane. In a straight direction we descend a few steps into the bazaar-street of the Booksellers (leading to the mosque, p. 361), in which only two wretched bookshops now remain.
Instead of descending these steps, we turn to the right, and follow the well-covered drapers' bazaar, where, especially in the afternoon, we encounter a crowd of women enveloped in their white sheets and closely veiled, waddling from shop to shop, carefully examining numberless articles which they do not mean to buy, and vehemently chaffering about inflnitesimally small sums. So eager are these customers to gain their point, that they are sometimes seen coquettishly raising their veils by way of enforcing their argument; but in this jealous and fanatical city it is impolite and even dangerous to be too observant of the fair sex. The scene is frequently varied by the appearance of a Turkish effendi, sometimes accompanied by soldiers, and mounted on a richly caparisoned horse; but his progress is necessarily slow, and he is obliged to clear the way by shouts of 'dahrak, dahrak'' (literally 'your back', anglicè 'get out of the way'). To the left, at the next corner of the street, we obtain a glimpse of the interior of a fine large bath (Hammâm el-Kishâni-, PI. 3).
In a straight direction we next enter the Cloth Bazaar, which is well-stocked with Saxon, Austrian, and English materials. The Damascene attaches much importance to fine clothes, and delights to have his kumbâz, or long robe, made of the best possible stuff. This bazaar generally drives a brisk trade. "When the merchant is at leisure he' sometimes reads the Koran on his mastaba (p. xxxviii), repeats his prayers, hires a nargîleh from one of the itinerant smoke purveyors, or chats amicably with his neighbour. One pleasant feature of the scene is that there appears to be no jealousy between the rival vendors of similar waxes. 'Allah has sent a good customer to my neighbour', they argue resignedly, 'and will in due time send me one also'. In the same spirit they place above their booths, in gilded letters, the words 'yâ rezzâk' or 'yâ fettâh' (i.e. O Thou who givest sustenance). The crowd is densest when the great festival of Beiram is approaching, that being the orthodox season for a new outfit. As Orientals generally sleep in their clothes, they wear them out very quickly.
Ascending the cloth bazaar towards the S., we observe on the right the Mausoleum of Nûreddîn, the famous sultan of Syria, and one of the keenest opponents of the Crusaders (d. 1174). Non-Muslims are not admitted. A projecting part of the bazaar is used as a minaret. The street terminates in the Sûk et-Tawîleh (p. 352).
From the large bath (Hammâm el-Kishâni) mentioned at p. 350 the Sûk el-Harîr ('silk bazaar', now chiefly occupied by shops with manufactures) leads to the left into the region of the Khâns, the seat of the wholesale trade. We first reach the Khân el-Harîr, or silk khân, now used by the furriers. Adjoining this khân is the Medreseh Sûk el-Harîr, or school belonging to it. Immediately afterwards the street leads into a broad cross-road, which widens out to the left (N.) into a small covered market-place (with two rows of covered columns). Here on the left (W.) side are the shops of the Shoemakers, where ladies' slippers of very soft yellow leather, children's shoes embroidered with silver thread, and heavy, hobnail ed boots for peasants are displayed in profusion and at moderate prices. At the N. end of this market is the S. gate of the great mosque (Bâb ez-Ziyâdeh, p. 363); the cabinet-makers' and the goldsmiths' bazaars (for both, see p. 363). — If, however, instead of entering the Sûk el-Harîr to the left, we ascend to the right, we pass the tobacconists' stalls. To the right is the Khân et-Tūtūn, which was formerly the tobacco market. The tobacco trade, which used to be concentrated in this street, has been almost destroyed by the introduction of the government monopoly. Standing a little back to the left at the S. end of the bazaar is the House of Asad Pasha, one of the handsomest in Damascus. Admission is obtained with the aid of a valet-de-place. The houses of Damascus are famous for the luxurious style in which they are fitted up. The spacious courts are paved with coloured stones, provided with a large basin of water and fountain in the centre, and bordered with flowers and groups of orange, lemon, pomegranate, and jasmine plants. On the S. side, opening towards the N., there is usually a lofty, open colonnade with pointed arches, called the lîwân, bordered with soft couches, and forming a delightful sitting-room. The walls are adorned with mouldings in stucco or with mosaics, and sometimes enriched with texts from the Koran. Beyond the first court is a second, and occasionally a third, similarly fitted up. With regard to the internal arrangements of Arabian dwellings, comp. p. xli.
From Asad Pasha's house the street next leads into a bazaar of drugs and sweetmeats. Some of the various kinds of biscuit (ka'k) which are also sold here may be purchased as an addition to the traveller's stores. We next reach the Khân Asad Pasha, the largest and handsomest in Damascus, on the E. side of the street. Around the court, and along the gallery running round the first floor at the back, are rows of shops, where the business conducted is chiefly wholesale. At the back of the building are courts with warehouses, dwellings, etc.
The entrance consists of a lofty 'stalactite' vanlt. The building is constructed of alternate courses of black and yellowish stone. The court is divided into nine squares by four large pillars connected by four arches, which again are connected with the walls by eight other arches, and above the squares rise nine domes enriched with arabesques and pierced with lofty windows. Some of these fell in during the last century and have been imperfectly restored. The centre of the court is occupied by a large round basin of water.
The continuation of the bazaar-lane is occupied by purveyors of lentils, coffee, rice, sugar, and also paper and other wares. After a few paces the lane leads into the Long Bazaar (Sûk et-Tawîleh). On the left, close to the entrance, is the Coppersmiths' Khân, which is worth visiting. This street, which is one of the longest in Damascus, runs straight from W. to E. almost through the whole town, and ends at the E. gate (Bâb esh-Sherki, p. 369). It answers to the 'Street which is called Straight' (Derb el-Mustakîm, comp. p. 345) and in ancient times possessed a colonnade. Traces of the columns are still discovered in and in front of the houses. The broad, clean, and airy bazaar with carriage-road is the work of Mldhat Pasha (p. 346). The pasha simply burnt down all the buildings which were crowded together here in narrow, crooked lanes, and on their site erected the present bazaar which is called after him El-Midhatîyeh. The continuation of the street eastwards is described on p. 360. We now turn to the right (W.). Close by, on the S. side, is the Khân Suleimân Pasha (see Plan), in which silks and, in particular, Persian carpets are sold. The patterns of the genuine Persian carpets are more quaint than pretty; but the colours wear admirably. The carpets are unfortunately mostly made in long, narrow strips, ill adapted for use in European rooms. The prices vary considerably according to the demand. We soon reach the street descending to the right in which we have already visited the tomb of Nûreddîn (the cloth bazaar, p. 351). We are now in the Silk Bazaar, which is interesting from the fact that it contains more of the produce of native industry than any of the others. The eye is chiefly attracted by the silk keffiyeh, or shawls for the head. The Beduins and peasants are especially partial to those with gaudy yellow and red stripes, but the white ones with narrow coloured edges are in better taste. Those of smaller size may be used for the neck, and will be found very durable. They cost from 50 to 160 pi., according to quality and size. The fringes are generally in a matted condition, bnt are disentangled when the shawl is sold. The thin silk-scarfs (sherbeh) and the heavy silks are often very beautiful. Another speciality consists in the table-covers of red or black woollen cloth embroidered with coloured silk (40-70 fr.). The letters on them are meaningless, being purely ornamental. The embroidered, or rather woven, tobacco-pouches, slippers, and other articles all come from Lebanon, and may be purchased more cheaply at Beirût. The fancy dresses, such as jackets for children, are sometimes very tasteful. There are also retail shops in the khâns adjoining this bazaar which afford a large choice. Another characteristic Oriental article is the 'abayeh, or woollen cloak worn by the peasants and Beduins, which is to be had here in every variety, from the coarse striped brown or black and white, to the fine brown and braided mantle of Bagdad. Besides these there are caps and various other goods. Cotton fabrics are also manufactured at Damascus and Homs. The handkerchiefs streaked with yellow or white silk thread, which the Muslims use as turbans, are also worthy of mention. Most of the women's veils sold here are imported from the Swiss canton of Glarus.
Beyond this bazaar a lane (formerly the continuation of the 'Straight Street') on the left leads to the Sûk el-Kuin (cotton bazaar); it runs parallel to the Midhatîyeh and a little to the S. of it. It is dedicated to mattress-makers and wool-carders, who hold the carding instruments with their toes. — As we proceed on our way, we occasionally obtain a glimpse of a reading-school, in which the teacher makes the boys recite passages from the Koran in chorus, and, as in the Jewish schools, they are seen rocking themselves to and fro during the performance. The crowd becomes greater as we proceed, and the character of its members indicate that we are approaching the peasant and Beduin quarter. The small, tattooed Beduin women are frequently seen stealing shyly along, unveiled, and feasting their eyes on all the splendours of the great city. To the left, if we happen to arrive here at one of the hours of prayer, we perceive in the court of the adjoining mosque a long row of the faithful, with their reciter of prayers, prostrating themselves after having performed their ablutions. This mosque is the great mosque Es-Sinâniyeh.
It is of approached by an oblong court paved with marble, on one side of which is a colonnade of six black columns leading to the interior. The dome is covered with lead. The principal portal on the E. side is interesting on account of its rich stalactites or brackets. The minaret is entirely covered with blue and green glazing (kishdni, p. 40). The balustrade of the gallery which runs round it is of delicate open-work, resembling lace.
The bazaar is here called Sûk el-'Attârîn, or Spice Market. Drugs and spices are again displayed in interminable rows of boxes and glasses. At the point where the bazaar joins the broad cross street, the Gate of St. John (Bâb Yahyâ) used to stand; the street to the left leads into the long suburb of Meidân (p. 356), the street in a straight direction takes us to the suburb of Kanawât, where there is a large conduit, as the name implies, and to a city-gate of the same name.
We turn to the right and go up the street to the north. To the left is the Hôtel d' Orient, while the Sûk et-Tawîleh opens on the right. It offers few attractions from the point where we left it; the shops are almost exclusively occupied by European shoemakers, and we may also see a few weavers who manufacture silken Arabian girdles (zinndr). During the construction of the bazaar a number of columns were discovered, belonging to the 'Straight Street', which must therefore have run in the same direction as the present bazaar. — The broad street along which we are now proceeding is one of the main streets of Damascus and runs in almost a straight line northwards from the S. end of the Meidân to the citadel. On both sides are many restaurants, and others are seen here and there among the bazaars. The most inviting are those where small pieces of fresh mutton with strips of the fat tail between them (kebâb) are slowly roasted on large spits. Beans and many other dishes are also cooked in these kitchens and consumed by purchasers in the open street. The traveller may for curiosity taste the flesh of the so-called kebâb in the Greek bazaar, where the shops are more civilised than in other parts of the town. Small rooms at the back of the restaurants here, with diminutive stools for diners, are set apart for customers.
We soon quit the covered bazaar and reach the Sûk el-Kharratîn, or Market of the Turners. The large mosque on the left, with the white and red stripes, is the Jâmi' el-Kharratîn, beyond which, on the same side, is the handsome Jâmi' ed-Derwishîyeh (200 years old), which gives its name to the prolongation of the street. Farther on, to the left, is a handsome bath, Hammâm ed-Derwishîyeh (or el-Malikeh). The street is shaded here by a few plane-trees. There are several stalls here where the red fezzes are ironed on round moulds. A few paces farther on we again find ourselves at the entrance to the Greek bazaar (p. 349).
The above are the principal bazaars. A most amusing variety of scenes may be witnessed in these bazaars and in the streets. The public slaughtering of animals has become rarer since a slaughterhouse was erected in the Meidân. Carts being unknown, the butchers are often seen carrying the carcases to their shops on their shoulders. The Bakers' Shops are interesting. The thin, flat bread is baked by being pasted against the tannûr, or stove. The Orientals prefer to eat their bread warm. The flat cakes are sold by weight, or at about 10 paras each. The boy who carries them about constantly shouts 'yâ rezzak' ('O Giver of sustenance', — i.e. O Allah, send customers), or 'abu'l ashara' ('this for 10 paras'). Benevolent Muslims are sometimes seen buying bread to feed the dogs. Finer kinds of bread are also offered for sale. Thus the berâzik is thin wheaten bread, slightly covered with butter and grape-syrup, and sprinkled with sesame. The seller shouts 'allâh er-râzik, yâ berâzik' ('God is the nourisher, buy my bread'), or 'akel es-snûnû' ('food for the swallows', i.e. for delicate girls). During the fasting-month of Ramadan an unusually large quantity of fancy bread and sweetmeats is consumed. Damascus also contains numerous Pastry Cooks and Confectioners, whose long tables are garnished with bottles of liqueurs, lightly stoppered with lemons or coloured eggs by way of ornament, and with glasses of jellies and preserved fruits. Lemonade and other beverages are cooled with snow from Lebanon (20 paras per glass). The shops for the sale of comestibles often contain handsome copper dishes bearing inscriptions with elaborate flourishes, all of which are said 'to date from the time of Sultan Beibars (p. 343). — The vendor of Refreshments plies his trade in the streets, carrying a two-handled, wide jar, with a narrow neck, or a vessel made of glass, on his back. In his hands he holds brazen cups which he rattles, shouting — 'berrid 'alâ kalbak' ('refresh thy heart'), or—'itfl el-harâra' ('allay the heat'). These are the cries of the dealers in lemonade and eau sucrée. The seller of jullâb, or raisin water, shouts—'mu'allal, yâ weled' ('well-cleared, my child'), etc., while the purveyor of khushâf, a beverage prepared from raisins, oranges, apricots, etc., extols its coolness in the words — 'bâlak snûnak' ('take care of your teeth'). Liquorice water and plain water are carried about in goat-skins by other itinerant dealers. An interesting custom is the so-called sebîl; that is, when any one is desirous of doing a charitable deed, he pays for the contents of a waterskin and desires the carrier to dispense it gratuitously to all comers. Water-bearers with good voices are selected for the purpose, and they loudly invite applicants with—'yâ 'atshân, es-sebîl ('O thirsty one, the distribution').
Fruit of all kinds is sold in a similar manner, being generally described by some quaint periphrasis, instead of being called by its name. Many kinds of vegetables are pickled in vinegar or brine and carried through the streets for sale in wooden tubs. The commonest are beetroot (shawender), turnips (lift), and cucumbers (khiyâr). These last form the principal food of the lower classes during several months of the year, one kind being eaten raw, the other cooked with meat. The cry of the sellers is —'y^bu 'eleh, khudlak shêleh, bitlâtîn rotl el-khiyâr' ('O father of a family, buy a load; for 30 paras a rotl of cucumbers', i.e. 5 lbs.). The cress is praised somewhat as follows — ``orra tarîyeh min 'ain ed-du'îyeh, tâkulha I'ajûz tisbih sabîeh' ('tender cresses from the spring of Ed-Du'îyeh; if an old woman eats them she will be young again next morning'). — 'Sêdnâwi yâ Ba'l' ('from Sêdnâwa, O Baal') is the cry of the fig-dealers, the best being yielded by Baal, as the country is now called which yields fruit without being watered. — Along with pistachios ('fistik jedîd', fresh pistachios), roasted pease are also frequently purveyed, with the cry — 'umm ên-nârên' ('mother of two fires'), which means that they are well roasted, or — 'haya halli ma tehmil el-isnân' ('here is something too hard for the teeth to bite'). — Hawkers of nosegays cry — 'sâlih hamâtak' ('appease your mother-in-law', i.e. by presenting her with a bouquet).
It may therefore be imagined that the bazaar is an exceedingly noisy place, and the constant din is increased by the lusty singing of the beggars and by the sonorous repetition of the Mohammedan creed by the muezzins, which resounds from one minaret to another throughout the whole city. The handicraftsmen of Damascus appear to be very industrious as a class. The barber, too, in his stall hung round with mirrors, incessantly and skilfully plies his trade of shaving heads and bleeding. The public writers, who sit at the corners of the streets, are often surrounded by peasants and Beduins, and sometimes by women. The engraver of seals is another important personage here, as the granter of a deed completes it by appending his seal and not his signature. The Persians are particularly noted for their skill in seal engraving and caligraphy. All these craftsmen begin their daily tasks at a very early hour, but the merchants do not open their shops till 8 a. m., closing them again about half-an-hour or an hour before sunset.