Palestine and Syria: Handbook for Travelers
Jerusalem, to most travellers, is a place of overwhelming interest, but, at first sight, many will he sadly disappointed in the dirty modern town, with its crooked and badly paved lanes. It would seem, at first, as though little were left of the ancient city of Zion and Moriah , the far-famed capital of the Jewish empire.
It is only by patiently penetrating beneath the modern crust of rubbish and decay, which shrouds the sacred places from view, that the traveller will at length realise to himself a picture of the Jerusalem of antiquity, and this will be the more vivid in proportion to the amount of previously acquired historical and topographical information at his command. The longer and the oftener he sojourns in Jerusalem, the greater will be the interest with which its ruins will inspire him , though he will be obliged to confess that the degraded aspect of the modern city, and its material and moral decline , form but a melancholy termination to the stupendous scenes once enacted here. The combination of wild superstition with the merest formalism which everywhere forces itself on our notice , and the fanaticism and jealous exclusiveness of the numerous religious communities of Jerusalem form the chief modern characteristics of the city — the Holy City, once the fountain-head from which the knowledge of the true God was wont to be vouchsafed to mankind, and which has exercised the supremest influence on religious thought throughout the world. Jerusalem is, therefore, not at all a town for amusement, for everything in it has a religious tinge, and from a religious point of view, the impressions the traveller receives in Jerusalem are anything but pleasant. The native Christians of all sects are by no means equal to their task, the bitter war which rages among them is carried on with very foul weapons, and the contempt with which the orthodox Jews and Mohammedans look down on the Christians is only too well deserved.
Arrival. The station is to the S. of the town, 1/4 hr- from the Jaffa Gate, to the E. of the German Temple colony. Carriage to the town, 2-5 fr. according to the season.
Hotels, Grand New Hotel (landlord Morcos; Cook's and Stangen's hotel), in the new Bazaar (PI. 4, C 4); Hotel de l'Europe, in the Jaffa road (PI. B, 3; landlord Herr Kappus); Lloyd Hotel, in the Jaffa road (PI, B, 3 ; landlord Herr A. Fast) ; Metropole, on the Jaffa road (PI. B, 4 ; landlord Herr Feil). — Jerusalem Hotel (see map of environs; landlord Kaminitz), in the Jaffa suburb. Pension, excl. wine, in the season 10-15 fr. (less for a prolonged stay), at other times 6-8 fr. (on arrangement). Jerusalem wine, 1-2 fr. per bottle, good French red wine from 3 fr. — Pension Olivet-House, in the Jaffa suburb (see map of environs). — Hospices. Prussian Hospice of St. John (PI. d, E 3; superintendent Bayer)) recommended for a prolonged stay (secure rooms in advance during the season); cuisine plain but good, pension, incl. wine, 5 fr. — German Catholic Hospice (see map of the environs), in the Jaffa suburb. — Austrian Hospice (PI. e; E, 2), in the Via Dolorosa. — Gasa Nuova of the Franciscans (PI. c; C, 3). — All these hospices are plainly but well fitted up; clean beds and good food. Travellers of means are charged 5 fr. a day or at any rale are expected to pay that sum.
Beer-houses and Cafes. European Casino (landlord A. Fast), opposite the citadel; Gambrinus (landlord Haug), next door to the Credit Lyonnais, in the Jaffa road; Bshara Fata, in the New Bazaar (PL 4); A. Lendhold, in the Temple colony (has a brewery of his own). Bavarian beer 7-9 pi. a bottle. — Confectioner. Backer, in the Jaffa road. — Wine. Bayer, in the hospice of St. John (see above); Bshara Fata, see above; Imberger, Berner, in the colony. Jerusalem wine, 1-2 fr. a bottle.
Arabian Coffee-houses are numerous , but are not frequented by foreigners; one of the best is close by the Jaffa Gate; another is the Cafá Beledi in the Jaffa road; a third is mentioned on p. 79.
Consulates. Permission to visit the mosques can be obtained only through the consulate. — American (see map of environs), Wallace; Austrian (see map of environs), H, Jehlitschka; British (see map of environs), J. Dickson ; French (PL A, B, 2), Oh. Ledoulx, consul-general ; German (see map of environs), Dr. von Tischendorf; Greek (PL A, 3), J. Mertrud ; Italian (see map of environs), Cazzani ; Russian (PL 17 : B 2), Arsenief; Spanish (PL A, B, 4), F. J. de Salas.
Post Office. Turkish (PL B, C, 2), outside the Jaffa Gate; Austrian (PL 93; D, 5). Letters may be addressed 'poste restante', but it is safer to ' have them addressed to the hotel or consulate. — International Telegraph, in the Turkish post office.
Money. p. xxix and the (PL tableB, before title-page.
Bankers. Credit Lyonnais, (Pl. B, C, 4). in the Jaffa road; Deutsche Palaestina-Bank, opposite the Citadel (PL E, 4)'; Valero (PL n, D, 4), David Street. David Weller and A. Singer also transact banking-business. — The traveller should always be well supplied with small change, which may he obtained at the bazaar, but he should be on his guard against imposition.
Physicians. Dr. Arbella, phys. in the Rothschild hospital i Dr. Cant, phys. of the English eye-hospital; Dr. Einsler, phys. of the Leproserie; Dr. Elliewich, phys. of the English mission ; Dr. Euclides, municipal phys. ; Dr. Feuchtwanger, Jewish phys. ; Fra Pietro, M. D., phys. of the Franciscan monastery ; Dr. de Fries, phys. in the French hospital of St. Louis ; Dr. Hindess, Jewish phys. ; Dr. Hoffmann, phys. in the German hospital; Dr. Mazaraki, phys. in the Spanish .Jews' hospital ; Dr. Pacter, phys. of the Maltese Order at Tantur; Dr. Sandrectky, phys. in the German hospital 'Marienstiff ; Dr. Savignoni, phys. of the Greek hospital ; Dr. SeverHn, phys. of the Russian hospital ; Dr. Wallach, Jewish phys. ; Dr. Wheeler, phya. of the Eng lish mission. — Dentist, Dr. Reglaff.
Chemists. Paulus, German chemist, in the German colony; Qaitanopulos, beside the Jaffa Gate; Damiani, in the Bazaar (PI. 4); also Dr. Sandreczky, and at the Hospitals.
Divine Service. Church of England: (a) in Christ Church (PI . 25 ; D, 5), 10a.m. in English; 3.30 p.m. in German; 7.30 p.m. in English. — (b) in St. Paul's (p. h2), 9.30 a.m. and 7 p.m. in Arabic. — German Protestant, 9 a.m., in the temporary chapel in the Muristân. — Service at the Syrian Orphanage, 9.30 a.m. in Arabic. — Meetings of the Temple community, in the newly erected hall in the colony. — The masses of the Roman Catholic church are variable. The beautiful masses in the Russian church are at 4 p.m.
Photographs. Nicodemus, Vester, in the new Bazaar (PI. 4); 8-10 fr, per doz. ; Hentschel. Other favourite Souvenirs are rosaries of olive - stones, crosses and other ornaments in mother-of-pearl (chiefly manufactured at Bethlehem), vases and other objects in black 'stinkstone' from the Dead Sea, and roses of Jericho. A large choice of these articles is to be found in the space in front of the church of the Sepulchre ; or some of the dealers may he requested to bring their wares to the traveller's apart ments. As a rule, one-half or a third only of the price demanded should be offered. Higher-class work is best bought in the shops in the new bazaar and at Vester^s. A staple product of Jerusalem is carved work in olive-wood and oak (rulers, paper-weights, crucifixes, etc. ; usually with the name 'Jerusalem1 in Hebrew letters, or with the Jerusalem cross), of which the best specimens may be purchased at Vester's (in the new Bazaar), at the House of Industry (opp. the tower of David), and at Faig^s. — Pretty cards with dried field-flowers are made by the German deaconesses and the Sisters of Zion, and are sold in aid of the respective institutions.
Provisions for trips into the country. Bekmasian, in the Jaffa road. — Travelling Requisites. Schnerring, saddler, in the Jaffa road. — Tailor. Eppinger, Jaffa road. — Shoemakers. Messerle and Hahn, both beside the Jaffa Gate and in the German colony. — Dress Goods. Imberger, Max Ungar, both near the Jaffa Gate. — Forwarding Agents. David Weller, A. Singer. Baggari & Ellenberger.
Dragomans. Guides for the town itself are unnecessary, but those who are inexperienced in oriental towns will do well to secure one from their hotel. — Dragomans for journeys (see p. xxii): Francis Karam (Fr., Ital., Engl.); David Jamal & Demetrius Damian (English and German); Riske and Williams (Jakob Riske, a Russian, speaks German, English, and French ; Earl Williams, a German, speaks Fr. and Engl.); Dimitri Banath (Engl, and Germ.); Jos. Ibrahim (Ger.) ; Hanna Auwad and son (Engl., Fr.. Ital.); Isa Kuprusli (Engl., Fr., Ital.); tfaroum Frkres (Engl., Fr., & Ital.); Rafael Lorenzo (Fr., Ital.); Franzit Morkos (Fr., Ital.); Isa and Gabriel Habesh (Engl, and French).
Carriages and Horses. Carriages are always to be found at the Jaffa Gate, hut for longer excursions they should be specially engaged from G. Kappus, F. Riske, or at a hotel. Per drive Vtmej.x tya day 10 whole day 20 fr. Prices should be settled beforehand. — Saddle Horse Vi day 3, whole day 5-6 fr- ; for longer tours according to bargain. A European saddle should be stipulated for (p. xxi). — Donkey, lft day 2, whole day 3 fr.
