In his notebook, Sam concluded that the “Immaculate  Conception has ceased to be a wearying & worrisome question.” What the  Ecumenical Council should “decide once & forever” was, “who was it that  struck Billy Patterson?” (From Wm. Porter’s collection, The Big Bear  of Arkansas and Other Sketches) [MTNJ 2:  235]. More from Sam’s notebook:

It is the more ridiculous spectacle to see a Virgin or a  copper Aristotle stuck on top of every stately monument of the grand old  “pagan” days of Rome.

The Clemens family left Florence for Rome. The trip took 8 hours  and they arrived at 4:30 PM [MTNJ 2: 235]. The party stayed at  the Hotel d’Allemania. Sam noted the cost of  the rooms, three coffees, one beefsteak and three “table d’hotes” (communal  table, full-course meal) totaling 48.25 francs, paid at 5 PM [281].
 

Sam’s notebook:

Uffizzi Gallery, Sunday (free day,)

What a shamed look people have who go along with a guide—they  nod annoyedly at every statement he makes, & they scarcely look at the  object he points at; often not at all; neither look they to one side or the other, or at anybody; they seem to have but one desire: to get through with  this painful trial & go free again [MTNJ 2: 234].

Sam  wrote to Valentine Besarel, letter not extant but mentioned in Besarel’s Oct. 27.
 

Sam’s notebook:

In Santa Croce to-day a well dressed young woman followed us,  begging for centimes.

An old frowsy woman watched where I laid my cigar, then  approached us with it as Chamberlain & I came out & said she rescued it  from some boys (who had found it in the dark!) & wantd 5 cents for her  trouble. She followed us into the street & finally cursed us & called  down sudden death upon us [MTNJ 2: 229].
 

Joe Twichell wrote to Sam.

I have been thinking of you all the morning. This is one of  those golden, perfect autumn days when ones desire to off somewhere among  trees, mounts to a passion… Now, Mark, let’s make a vow, that when we are once  more together we will use these heavenly days as they were meant to be used and  as we shall wish we had when we come to look back on life [MTP]. Note: there is  much more and more depth to this letter, but space here does not allow it all.

Livy wrote from Florence to her mother:

This evening Mr & Mrs Chamberlain were in for an hour  & we sat about a wood fire & chatted—then Mr Clemens read to us—then to  bed—where I am now—Florence is much more restful than Venice, because we have  no social demands—and one ought to know no one when they are visiting picture  galleries—The Chamberlains are a perfect delight, they never tax us in the  least they are helpful to us and are bright beyond expression [MTNJ 2:  226n19].

Sam’s notebook:

Belli Arti—It is not possible that anybody could take more  solid comfort in martydom that St. Sebastian did….The Old Master’s horses  always rear after the fashion of the kangaroo….500 Last Suppers—they all have  new table cloths with the fold wrinkles sharply defined.

The fig leaf & private members of statues are handled so  much that they are black & polished while the rest of the figure is white  & unpolished. Which sex does this handling?

Left for Florence. Good by, Dittura Agostino! [MTNJ 2: 223-5].

Sam’s notebook:

For two days we have been doubting Dittura’s reliability as a  news gatherer—but to-night I heard a news- man crying a paper—understood “Count  Bismark” & bought a copy—spelled out the fact that 2 days ago, Carlo Conti  di Bismark, a citizen of Venice, committed suicide by shooting himself through  the head with a revolver. So D.[ittura] was 2 days ahead of the newspaper [MTNJ  2: 223].

Stabilimento  Salviati, Venice, sent a statement for items purchased/shipped [MTP].
 

The Clemenses visited Padre  Giacomo Issaverdenz, a friend of Howells,  on the island of San Lazzaro,  two miles southeast of Venice.  At the Armenian monastery the Padre gave them preserved rose-leaves to eat,  showed them photographs and talked about the Howellses [MTHL 1: 241].

Sam’s notebook:

“Very magnificent sunset & lamp effects (Piazza) coming  from San Lazzaro… Dittura—Boom! (finger to temple.) –Morte—Signor  Bismark—to-day–(laying head in palm of hand)” [MTNJ 2: 222-3]. (See Oct.  16 entry for explanation.)