November 11, 1878 Monday

 – The Clemens family left Rome at 10:50 AM, and returned to  Florence, Italy at 6:50 PM, where they spent the night at the Hotel de  New York [MTLE 3: 97; MTNJ 2: 248].  They were headed north to spend the winter in Munich, a 600 mile  trip with 36 hours on slow trains, and four overnight hotel stops to make the journey more bearable for Livy [Rodney 115].  Sam’s notebook:

“… saw splendid torchlight processions crossing the 2 Arno  bridges to see the King, at the Pitti palace.

November 9, 1878 Saturday

– “Cooks agent gone off junketing—for a few days—can’t get any tickets” [MTNJ 2: 245].
 
In  a letter dated Nov. 10, Livy wrote to her mother:

We  have enjoyed Rome immensely & wish so very much that we were  going to spend three months here.  

November 8, 1878 Friday

– Sam viewed the painting “Bambino” at Ara  Coeli.

It is  always safe to say a thing was mentioned by Pliny. He was the father of  reporters—he mentioned everything.

Suit of  clothes in Heidelberg, $18; in Milan (slop-shop) $9; in  Rome (fancy tailor, $25  & $38—both very fine—the latter half dress. At home, $65 to 90 [MTNJ 2: 246].

November 5, 1878 Tuesday

– Sam’s notebook:

“…spent all day in Vedder’s lofty studio & the evening  with him & another artist spinning yarns & drinking beer in a quiet  saloon. Big row in the street but no bloodshed.” 

 Elihu Vedder was an American artist who kept a studio in  Rome. Sam visited the studio several times [MTNJ 2:  242]. (See Nov. 9 entry.)

November 1, 1878 Friday

–  Sam’s notebook:

“Great festa-day—shops all closed. Attended High Mass in a  chapel of St. Peters. Heaps of people of all ages sexes & professions  kissing (& scrubbing) St Peter Jupiter’s toe. He looks like a black negro  & has short crisp hair” [MTNJ 2: 239].

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