20. The Rigi.
Steamboat from Lucerne 7 times daily to Wäggis in 1/2-3/4 hr., to Vitz- nau in 3/4-1 hr., to Gersau in 1 1/4-1 3/4 hr.; from Lucerne to Küssnacht 4 times daily in 1 hr., to Greppen in 3/4 hr. — From Zug to Immensee 4 times daily in 3/4 hr., to Arth in 1 hr. (or direct in 50 min.).
Rigi Railways (p. 63). I. From VITZNAV TO THE KULM in 1 hr. 25 min., fare 7 fr. (to the Kaltbad 4 1/2, to the Staffel 5 fr.),; descent in the same time, fare 3 ½ fr. — Il. FROM ARTA TO THE KULM in 1 1/2 hr., fare 8 fr. (to the Klösterli 5 1/2, to the Staffel 7fr. 30 c.), descent 4 fr. — III. FROM THE KALTBAD TO THE SCHEIDECK in 25 min., fare 2 1/2 fr. — On each of these lines the passenger is allowed 10 lbs. of luggage, over-weight being charged for at the rate of 1 fr. per 100 lbs. (heavy luggage must sometimes be left to follow by a later train). From 1st July to 15th Sept. there are trains daily from Vitznau and Arth in correspondence with the steamers from Lucerne and Zug respectively. On the Vitznau line each train consists of one carriage, holding 54 persons, and not divided into classes, and, on the Arth line, of two carriages holding 40 persons each. (De- scription of these railways, see p. 63.) — Most travellers now-a-days prefer the rapid and convenient railway journey to the ascent on foot. Those who approach the Rigi from Lucerne will naturally ascend it by the Vitznau line, while persons coming from Zürich will generally take the Arth line. (From Lucerne to the Kulm by Vitznau in 2 1/4-2 3/4 hrs.; from Zürich to the Kulm by Zug and Arth in 3 3/4-4 1/2 hrs.) The Arth railway ascends among the depressions on the N. side of the mountain, affording no striking view unti] the magnificent panorama burst on the gaze when the Rigi-Staffel is reached. The Vitznau line from the S., on the other hand, commands a succesion of beautiful views of the lake, and the mountain-panorama is more gradually disclosed. — An easy and beau- tiful excursion of one day from Zürich is the journey to the Rigi-Kulm (dine), and thence to Lucerne by Vitznau. (Fares from Zürich to the Rigi-Kulm 13 fr. 75, 12 fr. 50, 11 fr. 5 c.; circular tickets from Zürich to the Kulm by Arth, and back by Vitznau and Lucerne, available for three days, 22 fr. 40, 19 fr. 15, 16 fr. 70 c.) Those who start from Lucerne may easily visit the Kulm, the Staffel (and Rothstock), the Kaltbad (and Känzli), and the Scheideck, and return the same day. — In fine weather extra-trains ascend to the Kulm from the Klösterli (in 23 min.) and from the Staffel (in 7 min.) in time for sunrise and sunset.
Pedestrians may ascend to the Kulm from Immensee, Küssnacht, Wäggis, or Vitznau in 3 1/4 hrs., from Arth or Greppen in 3 1/2, from Goldau in 3 3/4, from Lowerz in 4, or from Gersau in 4 3/4 hrs. — The most frequented of these routes before the days of the Rigi railways, and one still much used by persons descending the mountain, is that from Wäggis. The views on this side are very beautiful, but, as already observed, the mountain-panorama is far more striking when suddenly revealed to the traveller ascending on the N. side.
Hotels. On the Kulm, *HÔTEL RIGI-KULM (p. 64), R. in the old house 3-4, in the new 4-5 fr., L. 3/4, B. 1 1/2. table d`hôte 4-5, A. 1 fr. The rooms to the S. (generally with two beds) alone command a complete view of the Alps. *HÔTEL SCHREIBER, R. 3-5, B. 1 1/2, D. 4-5, L. and A. 1 3/4 fr. — *HÔTEL RIGI-STAFFEL (p. 65), 1/2 hr. below the Kulm, R. 2 1/2, B. 1 1/2, D. 3 1/2, L. and A. 1 fr., pension 7-8 1/2 fr. (a good point for observing the Rigi traffic, the whole of which passes this way). *HÔTEL STAFFEL-KULM, moderate. — The *KURHAUS RIGI-KALTBAD (p. 64), 1/2 hr. to the W. of the Staffel, is a large establishment, with baths, comfortably fitted up and ex- pensive, where ordinary travellers rarely find accommodation. HÔTEL BELLEVUE, at stat. Kaltbad, moderate. — *HÔTEL, RIGI-FIRST, a large new house, situated on the Scheideck railway 1/4 hr. from the Kaltbad (p. 69), pension including room from 10th July to 10th Sept. 10-15 fr., earlier or later in the season 9-12 fr. — *SCHWERT and *SONNE, near the Klösterli (p. 65), R. 1 1/2-2, B. 1, D.3, A. 1/2 fr., pension 5-6 fr. — HÔTEL RIGI- UNTERSTETTEN, near stat. Unterstetten (p. 69). — *KURHAUS RIGI-SCHEILECK (p. 70), magnificent view, second only to that from the Kulm, R. 2-5, B. 1 1/2, D. 4, L. and A. 1 1/4 fr.; pension with room, in July and August 8-12, in June and Sept. 7-10 fr.; whey, milk, or the chalybeate water of the Scheideck 20 c. per glass; cold bath 1 fr., warm bath 1 1/2 fr.
In the height of the season travellers are recommended to telegraph (1/2 fr.) from Zürich, Lucerne, Horgen, Wädenswy], Zug, Schwyz, Altort, or Stans, if they wish to secure good accommodation at the Kulm.
The **Rigi (5906’, or 4472’ above the Lake of Lucerne), a group of mountains, about 25 M. in circumference, lying between the lakes of Lucerne, Zug, and Lowerz, is chiefly composed of conglomerate (p. 72), while the N. and W. sides belong to the meiocene formation. The N. side is precipitous, but the S. side consists of wide terraces and gentle slopes, planted with fig, chestnut, and almond trees, and covered with fresh green pastures which support upwards of 4000 head of cattle. The name Rigi, however, is usually applied to the N. peak only, which, owing to its isolated position, commands a singularly beautiful and striking panorama of 300 miles in circumference,
It was formerly called Rigi-Weid (pasturage of the Rigi) by the natives of the district, but is now known as the Rigi only (i.e. ‘strata’). The cow-herds and the frequenters of the Kaltbad were at one time the only persons acquainted with the mountain. In 1689 an inhabitant of Arth erected the chapel of Our Lady of the Snow (St. Maria zum Schnee) for the use of the herdsmen, and an image of the Virgin placed there in 1700 was soon revered as possessing miraculous virtue. Hence arose the custom of making pilgrimages to the spot, and as early as 1760 the inns which had gradually sprung up scarcely afforded sufficient accommodation for the pilgrims. After the restoration of peace in Europe in 1815, visitors to the Kulm became more numerous, and in 1816 an insignificant inn was erected on the summit by voluntary subscription. In 1848 that inn was displaced by the oldest of the present houses. During the following decades the popularity of the mountain rapidly increased, and of late years, in consequence of the great facilities afforded by the railways, the number of visitors has been immense. Several new hotels have recently sprung up, and the Rigi is now perhaps the most frequented spot in the whole of Switzerland.
Rigi Railways. The oldest of the three lines now in use is the Vitznau Railway, constructed by the engineers Riggenbach, Naeff, and Zschokke in 1869-71, and opened as far as stat. Staffelhöhe, on the frontier of Canton Lucerne, in the summer of 1871, whence it was completed to the Kulm in 1873. The latter part of the line, situated in Canton Schwyz, was constructed by the ‘Arth-Rigi Rail Co.`, by whose directions Messrs. Riggenbach and Zschokke, in 1873-75, constructed the Arth and Staffel line, which was opened in June 1875. The line from Vitznau to the Kulm is nearly 4 1/2 M., and that from Arth to the Kulm nearly 7 M. in length. The former ascends 4472’, the latter 4541’. The maximum gradient on the Vitznau line is 1’ in 4’, on the Arth line 1’ in 5’. — Both lines are constructed on the same system. The gauge is that of ordinary rail- ways. Between the rails run two others, placed close together and pro vided with teeth, on which a cog-wheel under the locomotive works. The locomotives (120 horse power), constructed by Herr Riggenbach, are on a new and peculiar system, with upright boilers. The train is propelled upwards by steam-power, while in its descent the speed is regulated by an ingenious mode of introducing atmospheric air into the cylinder. The passenger carriage is placed in both cases above the engine, with which it is unconnected by couplings, and in case of accident can be stopped almost instantaneously. The speed scarcely exceeds 3 M. an hour, and no apprehension of danger need be entertained. -—- The Scheideck Railway (p.69), about 4 1/5 M. in length, is nearly level, the greatest gradient being 1’ in 20’, and is constructed like ordinary railways. The locomotives, on an improved system invented by Hr. Riggenbach, are specially adapted for the ascent of inclines.
FROM VITZNAU TO THE RIGI-KULM. Vitznau, see p. 56; the railway station is close to the quay. The train ascends gradually through the village (1: 15) and afterwards more rapidly (1 : 4), passing the precipitous slopes of the Dossen. A view of the lake is soon disclosed, and it becomes more imposing as the train as- cends. The dark Bürgenstock on the opposite bank first appears, then the Stanserhorn and Pilatus, and Lucerne towards the W. Farther up, the Alps of Uri, Engelberg, and the Bernese Oberland come in sight above the lower intervening mountains.
About 20 min. after starting, the train penetrates a projecting conglomerate rock by means of a tunnel 82 yds. in length, and crosses the Schnurtobel, a ravine 75 ft. in depth, by means of an iron bridge borne by two iron pillars. This is the most interesting point on the line. A few minutes later we reach a watering and passing station on the Freiberg, from which point to the Kulm the line is double. Beyond the Freiberg no great difficulty was ex- perienced in the construction of the line, the gradient of which now averages 1: 5.- Stat. Romiti-Felsenthor (comp. p. 66) and (54 min. from Vitznau) —
Stat. Kaltbad (4728’), to the left of which is the large Kurhaus (p. 62), situated on a plateau sheltered from the N. and E. winds,
A path leads through a narrow opening in the rock, to the left of the hotel, to St. Michael’s Chapel, the walls of which are hung with nu- merous votive tablets. One of these on the left side records that two pious sisters sought refuge here from the persecutions of a governor of the dis- trict in the time of King Albert, and built the chapel. The spring (42 Fahr.) which bubbles forth from the rock adjoining the chapel was formerly called the ‘Schwesternborn’ in memory of the two sisters.
A path among the blocks of conglomerate near the chapel, and after- wards traversing park-like grounds, leads to the (10 min.) Känzli (4770’), a pavilion on a projecting rock, commanding an admirable view of the range of snow-mountains and the plain towards the N. with its numerous lakes, similar to that from the Staffel, but with a more picturesque fore- ground. —
A path leads hence to the Staffel in the same time as from the Kaltbad (40 min.), ascending to the right (not to the E.) as far as the point where the S. part of the Lake of Lucerne becomes visible, and then following the crest of the mountain until it unites with the path from the Kaltbad, about halfway up. Those therefore who visit the Känzli from the Kaltbad need not return to the latter.
Railway from the Kaltbad to the Scheideck, see p. 69.
In 5 min. more the train reaches stat. Staffelhöhe, beyond which it runs to the left round the Rigi-Rothstock (see below), as- cending in 9 min. more to stat. Rigi-Staffel (5210'), the junction of the Arth line (see below). The station is immediately above the hotel (p. 62).
The *Rigi-Rothstock (5456'), 12 min. to the S. W. , is worthy of a visit. The very picturesque prospect embraces the central part of the Lake of Lucerne, which is not visible from the Kulm. A clear view is moreover often enjoyed from this point while the Kulm is enveloped in dense fog. The sunset is sometimes said to be seen in greater perfection from the Rothstock than from the Kulm, but the sunrise should certainly be witnessed from the latter.
The railway (a double line) ascends somewhat rapidly from the Staffel to the (3/4 hr.) Kulm, skirting the precipitous rocks on the N. side of the mountain.
Rigi-Kulm (p. 62). On the left is the Hotel Schreiber; on the right, nearer the summit, the Hotel Rigi-Kulm (p. 62).
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The Rigi-Kulm (5906’), the loftiest and northernmost point of the Rigi, is covered with grass to the summit. Its N. side descends precipitously to the Lake of Zug, while on the S.W. side it is connected with the other part of the mountain which encloses the basin of the Klösterli and extends to the Scheideck. At the top rises a wooden belvedere. The hotels stand about 130 paces below the summit, sheltered from the W. and N. winds.
**View. The first object which absorbs the attention of the spectator, is the stupendous range of the snow-clad Alps, 120 M. in length (comp. the Panorama). The chain begins in the far E. with the Sentis in the Canton of Appenzell, over, or near which the first rays of the rising sun appear in summer. Somewhat nearer the Rigi rises the huge snowy crest of the Glärnisch; then the Tödi, in front of which are the Cla- riden, and to the right the double peak of the Scheerhorn; next, the broad Windgelle, immediately opposite, and the sharp pyramid of the Bristen- stock, at the foot of which the St. Gotthard road begins to ascend near Amsteg in the valley of the Reuss; the Blackenstock and the Uri-Roth- stock, side by side, are both so near that the ice of their glaciers can be distinguished; then the serrated Spannörter, and more to the right the Titlis, the highest of the Unterwalden range, easily distinguished by its vast mantle of snow. The eye next travels to the Bernese Alps, crowning the land. with their magnificent peaks clad with perpetual snow. To the extreme left is the Finsteraarborn , the loftiest of all, adjacent to it the Schreckhörner, the three white peaks of the Wetterhorn, the Mönch, the Eiger with its perpendicular walls of dark rock on the N. side, and the Jungfrau. To the W. tower the jagged peaks of the sombre Pilatus, forming the extreme outpost of the Alps in this direction. —- Towards the N. the entire Lake of Zug is visible, with the roads leading to Arth, and the villages of Zug and Cham. To the left of the Lake of Zug, at the foot of the Rigi, stands Tell’s Chapel, midway between Im- mensee and Küssnacht, a little to the left of a white house; then, se- parated from the Lake of Zug by a narrow strip of land, the Küssnacht arm of the Lake of Lucerne; more to the W. Lucerne with its crown of battlements and towers, at the head of its bay. Beyond Lucerne is seen almost the entire canton of that name, with the Emme meandering through it like a silver thread; the Reuss is also visible at places. More distant are the Lake of Sempach, the W. side of which is skirted by the railway to Bâle, and the lakes of Baldegg and Hallwyl. The W. and N.W. horizon is bounded by the Jura chain, above which peep some of the crests of the Vosges. — To the N., but to the left of the Lake of Zug, the hand- some buildings of the dissolved Abbey of Muri are visible, beyond which rises the castle of Habsburg; in the distance the Black Forest with its highest peaks, the Feldberg (to the right) and the Belchen (to the left). Beyond the Lake of Zug is seen the crest of the Albis with the Uetliberg, which almost entirely conceals the Lake of Zürich; the long cantonal hos- pital and the cathedral in the town of Zürich are, however, visible. In the extreme distance rise the basaltic cones of Hohenhöwen and Hohenstoffelu (close together) and the Hohentwiel in Swabia. Towards the E., behind the N. slope of the Rossberg, a glimpse is obtained of the Lake of Egeri, on the S. bank of which was fought the famous battle of Morgarten (p. 323). Beyond Arth, opposite the Kulm, is the Rossberg, the S. slope of which was the scene of the disastrous Goldau landslip. Between the Rossberg and the E. ramifications of the Rigi lies the Lake of Lowerz with its two little islands; beyond it, the town of Schwyz, at the foot of the barren heights of the Mythen, overtopped by the imposing Glärnisch. To the right opens the Muottathal, celebrated in military annals. To the S. and S.E. the different summits of the Rigi form the foreground, viz. the Hochfluh (below it the Rothenfluh), Scheideck, Dossen, and Schild, at the foot of which lies the Klösterli. To the left of the Schild part of the Lake of Lucerne is seen near Beckenried, and to the right the bay called the Lake of Buochs, with the Buochser Horn above it; a little more to the right the Stanser Horn with Stans at its base; nearer, the less elevated Bürgenstock and the Rigi-Rothstock. Beyond these heights, to the left, the lake of Sarnen, embosomed in forest, to the right the bay of Alpnach, connected with the Lake of Lucerne by a narrow strait formed by the Lopperberg, a spur of Pilatus.
From the middle of July to the middle of September, in fine weather, the hotel is crowded towards evening (precau- tions about securing accommodation, see p. 62). The concourse of strangers, composed of such various elements, is of itself a source of no little amusement to the observant spectator. Every grade of society is represented here, and all the languages of Europe combine to produce a very Babel of incongruous sounds. At sunset all are attracted to the summit by one common object. Loiterers arrive breathless at the point towards which they have been toiling so many hours, while an indifferent performer on the Alpine horn somewhat tries the temper by blowing the ‘retreat’ of the orb of day. When the sun has at length disappeared, the prosaic attractions of the supper-table become predominant, and the belvedere is soon deserted.
Half an hour before sunrise, the Alpine horn sounds the reveille. All is again noise, bustle, and confusion. As the sun will wait for no man, eager expectants often indulge in im- promptu toilettes of the most startling description. A red Indian in his blanket would on these occasions be most appropriately dressed, and would doubtless find many imitators but for the penalty imposed on visitors borrowing so tempting a covering from the hotel. The sleepy eye soon brightens, the limb stiffened by the exertions of the preceding day is lithe again in that exciting moment; the huge hotel is for the nonce without a tenant; and if the eager crowd are not, like the disciples of Zoroaster,. ready with one accord to prostrate themselves before the great source of light and life, there are probably few whose thoughts do not turn in silent adoration towards that mighty hand which created ‘the great light which rules the day’.
A faint streak in the E., which pales by degrees the brightness of the stars, is the precursor of the birth of day. This in- sensibly changes to a band of gold in the extreme horizon; each lofty peak is in succession tinged with a roseate blush; the shadows between the Rigi and the horizon gradually melt away; forests, lakes, hills, towns, and villages reveal themselves; all is at first grey and cold, until at length the sun suddenly bursts from behind the mountains, in all its majesty, flooding the whole of the superb landscape with light and warmth (comp. Panorama).
Among the most picturesque points of this magnificent scene, embracing a circuit of nearly 300 miles, are the Lakes of Zug and Lucerne, which last branches off in so many directions as almost to bewilder the eye; and they approach so close to the foot of the Rigi, that it seems as if a stone might be thrown into them. Eleven other small lakes are also visible.
For a quarter of an hour before and after sunrise the view is clearest; at a later hour the mists rise and condense into clouds, frequently concealing a great part of the landscape. The chamois-hunter in Schiller’s Tell aptly observes :
Through the parting clouds only
The earth can be seen,
Far down ‘neath the vapour
The meadows of green.
But the mists themselves possess a certain charm, surging in the depths of the valleys, or veiling the Kulm. and struggling against the powerful rays of the sun. The different effects of light and shade, varying so often in the course of the day, are a source of constant admiration to the spectator. At a very early hour the Bernese Alps are seen to the best advantage ; and in the evening those to the E. of the Bristenstock. Those who have sufficient leisure will not repent devoting several days to the Rigi. In the evening and morning the vast concourse of visitors is a great hindrance to the thoughtful study of the scene, while during the day the lover of nature can uninter- ruptedly contemplate the mighty prospect around him. When the view has been sufficiently surveyed, any leisure time will be well spent in visiting (on foot or by railway) the Staffel (p. 64), the Kaltbad (p. 64), the Klösterli (p. 65), or the Scheideck (p. 70), or in ascending the Rothstock (p. 64).
As the temperature often varies 40-50° within the 24 hrs., overcoats and shawls should not be forgotten. During the prevalence of the S. wind (Föhn) the mountains seem to draw nearer, their jagged outlines become more definite, their tints warmer; and the same effect is produced by the W. wind on the Jura, but both these winds are generally the precursors of rain. .
A singular atmospheric phenomenon is sometimes witnessed on the Rigi, as on some other high mountains. When the vapours rise perpendicularly from the valleys, on the side opposite the sun, without enveloping the mountain itself, a kind of screen is formed, capable of ex- hibiting the outline of the mountain and any objects on it. In such a case persons standing on the summit of the Rigi have their shadows cast upon this misty screen in greatly enlarged proportions, encircled by a prismatic halo, which is sometimes double, if the fog is thick.
FROM THE KALTBAD TO THE RIGI-SCHEIDECK. The Kaltbad, see p. 64. The railway (p. 61) skirts the W. slope of the Rigi, being hewn in the rock for the greater part of the distance, and ascends gradually to stat. Rigi-First (4747’), which commands a beautiful view of the Lake of Lucerne and the Bernese Alps (hotel, p. 62). The train runs hence to the N. side of the hill, and de- scribes a wide curve round the N. slopes of the Schild (p. 70), affording a pleasant view, towards the E., of the Mythen, the Glär- nisch, and the Alps of Appenzell. We next cross the bridge of Unterstetten (55 yds. long, 33 ft. high, ascending 1’ in 20’, and forming a curve with a radius of 132 yds.), pass through a tunnel 55 yds. long near the Weisseneck (between the Dossen and Roth- fluh), cross the Dossentobel by a stone bridge 84’ high, and reach the ridge which connects the Dossen with the Scheideck, where a view towards the 8. is again disclosed.
Stat. Rigi-Scheideck (5407’), with the *Kurhaus mentioned at p. 62, is a much frequented spot, and is recommended for a pro- longed stay. The view which it commands is less extensive than the view from the Kulm, but also embraces the entire chain of moun- tains, and some points not visible from the Kulm (see Panorama at the inn). The flat mountain-top, upwards of 1 M. in length, affords an airy promenade; the Dossen (see below) is only 3/4 hr. distant.
Routes to the Scheideck. FROM GERSAU (p. 57) a bridle-path (3 1/4 hrs., descent 2 hrs.), steep at places, and unpleasant in descending. Be- yond the village we cross the brook and ascend by a paved path between orchards and farm-houses; 40 min., Brand; 1/2 hr., a saw-mill, where we again cross the brook; 10 min,, Unter-Gschwänd (tavern); 10 min., Ober- Gschwänd, where the path from Lowerz is joined (see below). To the right rise the precipitous slopes of the Hochfuh (5554’), with the small chapel of St. Joseph. On a sharp ridge, 20 min. below the Scheideck, a view is suddenly disclosed of the lakes of Lowerz and Zug, the Rossberg, Goldau, and Arth.
FROM LOWERZ (p. 73) a bridle-path (3 hrs., guide unnecessary), ascending towards the S. to the depression between the Hochfluh and Twäriberg, the E. spur of the Scheideck, and uniting with the Gersau route at Ober Gschwänd (see above).
FROM THE KLÖSTERLI (p. 65) a bridle- path (1 3/4 hr.), ascending from the Schwert inn and passing the Dossen (5515'), which may be visited by devoting 1/4 hr. more to the walk. (We ascend the saddle to the right between the Schild and Dussen, 1/2 hr. from the Klösterli, pass the slope above Vitznau commanding a fine view, and proceed thence straight to the summit of the Dossen, which affords an admirable survey of the whole of the Lake of Lucerne and the canton of Unterwalden.)
FROM THE STAFFEL (p. 65) a good footpath (2 hrs.), which can hardly be mistaken (railway, see above). At the Staffel Hotel it diverges to the left from the path to the Rothstock and then skirts the brow of the mountain (to the right several views of the Lake of Lucerne, the Alps, and the Klösterli in the valley to the left). After 1/2 hr., on the First (p. 69), it crosses the path from the Klösterli to the Kaltbad, leads round the slopes of the Schild (5095') to the saddle between the Schild and Dossen, skirts the latter, and then descends to the (2 1/4 hrs.) chalets in the Elend,a valley between the Dossen and Scheideck, where it joins the bridle-bath from the Klösterli. In 1/4 hr. more the Curhaus is reached. The ascent of the Dossen may easily be combined with this route also.