35. From (Thun) Spiez to Leuk and Susten over the Gemmi.
Comp. Maps, pp. 102, 152.
51 M. DILIGENCE twice daily from Spiez to Frutigen in 2 hrs. 20 min. ; from Frutigen to Kandersteg daily in 2 1/2 (back in 2) hrs, One-horse carr. from Spiez to Frutigen 10, two-horse 18 fr.; to Kandersteg 18 or 35 fr. — From Thun to the Heustrich-Bad omnibus daily at 4 p.m. (2 l/2 fr); one-horse carr. to Wimmis or Spiez 8 fr.
The Gemmi, one of the most imposing of the Alpine passes, is more remarkable for grandeur than picturesqueness. There is a good carriage-road as far as Kandersteg (18 M. from Spiez, 22 1/2 M. from Thun); thence over the Gemmi to the Baths of Leuk (5 1/2 hrs.) a good bridle-path (guide unnecessary); from the baths a good road descends to the (7 1/2 M.) Rhone valley.
Thun, see p. 104; steamboat to Spiez (*Spiezer Hof), see pp. 107, 108. (The post-office is near the landing-place, where carriages also are in waiting.) The road, skirted by houses and fruit-trees, ascends the gently sloping S. bank of the lake to Moos, where it unites with the road from Thun, and (1 ½ M.) Spiezwyler; to the S.W. towers the Niesen (p. 106), with Wimmis and its château (p. 106) at its N. base, to the right of the entrance to the Simmenthal (p.157). The conical Stockhorn (p. 158) stands prominently forth from the opposite mountains on the left bank of the Simme.
Beyond Spiezwyler, a road to Aeschi (see below) diverges to the left. The high road skirts the lofty right bank of the Kander. (3 M.) Emdthal is the station for the Heustrich-Bad, situated opposite on the left bank of the Kander, a much frequented sulphur-bath (also a hotel; ascent of the Niesen, see p. 106). To the left a footpath ascends to (20 min.) Aeschi (see below).
Near (1/2 M.) Mühlenen or Mülĩnen (2264'; *Bar, R. 1 1/2, B. 1 1/2, S. 2 1/2 fr.; Hôtel Niesen), the road crosses the Suldbach.
FROM MÜHLEENE TO INTERLAKEN, 11 1/2 M., a charming walk. Beyond Mühlenen the road diverges from the high road to the right and ascends to the hilly district between the Kanderthal and the Lake of Thun (the voituriers prefer the longer route from Mühlenen to Interlaken via Spiezwyler, see above). The village of (2 1/2 M.) Aeschi (2818’; °Bär and *Blümlisalp; Zum Niesen; A la Vue des Alpes), lies on a height, commanding an extensive view of the lake of Thun (the Faulenseebad, p. 108, is situated 1/2 M. to the N.E.). The road then gradually descends to (5 M.) Leissigen (*Steinbock), situated on the lake, and (2 M.) Därligen (p. 108), from which Interlaken (2 1/4 M.) is reached by railway. — Pleasant excursion from Aeschi by Aeschi-Allmend to the Sonnenberg and the (3 hrs.) Hutmad-Alp (5350’), whence the Morgenberghorn (7385') is reached in 2 hrs.; or by carriage to the (2 hrs.) waterfall in the Suldthal, whence a path ascends to the left to the Renggli-Alp and by the Tanzbödeli (9449') to (4 hrs.) Saxeten (p. 114),
The Gemmi route leads through the pretty village of Reichenbach (2336'; *Bär), at the entrance of the Kienthal (p. 118; beautiful view of the Blümlisalp to the left), crosses the Kander, and, 4 ½ M. from Mühlenen, reaches —
9 1/2 M. Frutigen (2717'; *Hôtel Gemmi; Adler; Helvetia; Bellevue; in all R. 2, B. 1 1/2, A. 1/2 fr.), a village in a fertile part of the valley, on the Engstligenbach, which falls into the Kander below the village. From the church, a beautiful view of the Kanderthal, the Balmhorn, Blümlisalp, and Altels, and of the Ralligstöcke (p. 108) in the opposite direction. — Bridle-path to the Niesen, see p.106.
The valley divides here; the S. arm, through which the Kander flows, leads to the Gemmi, while the S.W. branch ascends into the narrow valley of Adelboden. The road to the latter at first follows the Kandersteg road, crosses the Engstligenbach, then turns to the right, and ascends rapidly on the right bank of the brook to (12 M.) Adelboden (4449’; rustic inn by the church). At the head of the valley (1 1/2 hr.) is the beautiful Staubfall, above it the Wildstrubel, to the left the Lohner. From Adelboden a path, marshy at places, leads over the Hahnenmoos (near the highest point, 6404’, a chalet) in 3 1/2 hrs. to Lenk (p. 155), affording a beautiful view, during the descent, of the upper Simmenthal, the Wildstrubel, the Weisshorn, and the Räzli Glacier.
From ADELBODEN TO KANDERSTEG an interesting pass leads over the Bonder-Krinden (7831') in 6-7 hrs. Guide necessary (10 fr.). — OVER THE STRUBELECKJOCH TO SIERRE (p. 270) 12-13 hrs., a difficult glacier-pass, for skilled mountaineers only, with good guides.
Near Frutigen the road crosses the Engstligenbach and the Kander, near the Tellenburg (now a prison), and intersects the pleasant and almost level valley of Kandergrund. The church and parsonage of the valley are at (3 M.) Bunderbach (2881'; *Hôtel Altels, moderate).
A path to the right, a short distance from the inn, leads in 1/2 hr. to the small *Blaue See, picturesquely embosomed in wood, and remarkable for its deep blue colour (afternoon light most favourable, not worth visiting on dull days; the innkeeper at Bunderbach charges 1 fr. for the use of the boat).
Near Mitthols (3154') the square tower of the ruined Felsenburg is passed. The road then ascends the Büthlstutz in long windings (short-cut for pedestrians) and reaches (5 1/2 M.) —
18 M. Kandersteg (3839’). — *HÔTEL: GREMMI, R. 2, B. 1 1/2, D. 3 1/2, A. 1/2 fr; *BÄR, R. 2 ½ B. 1 1/2, D. 4, L. and A. 1 1/2 fr; both at the upper end of the village, near the foot of the Gemmi; HÔTEL VICTORIA., — Guide (unnecessary) to Schwarenbach (3, descent 2 hrs.) 5 fr.; to the Gemmi (summit of the pass, 4, descent 2 3/4 hrs.) 7 fr.; to the Baths of Leuk (5 1/2 hrs. ; ascent thence to the summit of the Gemmi 2 1/2 hrs.) 10 fr. — Horse to Schwarenbach 10, to the Gemmi 15, to the Baths of Leuk 20 fr.; but riding should not be attempted beyond the summit of the pass, owing to the precipitous nature of the descent. Carriage to Frutigen, one-horse 10, two-horse 18 fr.; Spiez, one-horse 18, two-horse 35; Thun, one-horse 20, two-horse 40 fr.; Interlaken, one-horse 25, two- horse 45 fr. for the ascent from Frutigen to Kandersteg 2 fr. more are demanded (return vehicles may often be hired at a cheaper rate).
A magnificent mountain panorama is disclosed here: to the N.E. rises the jagged Birrenhorn; to the E. the glistening snow-mantle of the Blümlisalp or Weisse Frau, the magnificent Doldenhorn, and the barren Fisistöcke; to the S.W., between the Ueschinenthal and Gasternthal, the lofty Gellihorn. Opposite the Victoria Hotel, on the W. side of the valley, are the remains of an old moraine.
To the E. lies the *Oeschinen-Thal, a valley about 4 M. long, well worthy of a visit (guide 1 1/2 fr., unnecessary ; follow the road on the right bank of the Oeschinenbach ; horse 6 fr.). It is terminated by the Oeschinen-See (5223'), a small lake 1 M. in length, enclosed by precipitous rocks, from which waterfalls are precipitated (boat for the use of visitors). Above the lake tower the Weisse Frau, or Blümlisalp (12,041'), and the Fründenhorn (1,030) and Doldenhorn (11,965'), both ascended for the first time in 1862 (see Dr. Roth's interesting description of the expedition, ‘The Doldenborn and Weisse Frau’, London, 1864). A footpath leads hence over the Dündengrat (Hochthürli) into the Kiential (p. 119), and over the Sefinen-Furke to Lauterbrunnen (p. 118).
From Kandersteg by the Lötschen Pass to Gampel (in the Valais), see R. 62. From KANDERSTEG OVER THE TSCHINGEL PASS TO LAUTERBRUNNEN,a most interesting expedition of 13-14 hrs. (7 hrs. on the ice), for which able guides are necessary (30 fr. each; Fritz Ogi, Joh. and Chr. Hari, Ulr, Linder, and J. Steiner are recommended). The previous night may be spent at Selden (p. 268), or, in the reverse direction, at Trachsellauinen (p. 117). From (2 hrs.) Selden in 1 3/4 hr. to the Alpelli Glacier, the W. arm of the Kander Glacier. Next, a fatiguing walk of 2 hrs. over the lateral moraine on the S. margin of the glacier, and a precipitous ascent to the Kander Glacier, properly so called, an interminable expanse of snow and ice, overshadowed on the left by the bold precipices of the Blümlisalp (12,041'). Then a gentle ascent of 1 1/2 hr. to the Tschingel Pass (9252'), to the left of the Mutthorn (9958'), and over the Tschingel Glacier, leaving the Gamchilücke (Kienthaler Furca) and farther on the Gspaltenhorn (11,260') on the left, finally over moraines and steep patches of grass to the (2 hrs.) Tschingeltritt, a precipice 2000' high, skirting which the route descends across the Lower Tschingel Glacier (1/2 hr.) to the (1/2 hr.) upper Steinberg Alp (p. 117) and (1 br.) Trachsellauinen (p.117).
Beyond the Bär inn (see above), where the diligence office is established, the road contracts to a well kept bridle-path and ascends, The brook issuing from the Ueschinenthal on the right forms some small falls. The path ascends in windings at the base of the Gellihorn (7530’), on a slope which apparently terminates the valley, and leads through a pine-forest at a great height above the valley, commanding a fine view of the Gasternthal (p. 268) to the left, and the mountains enclosing it. About 2 1/2 hrs. from Kandersteg, we observe the chalets of Spitalmatt (6250'), or Spittelmatt, to the right. To the E., between the snowy Altels (11,922’) and the black, rocky peak of the Kleine Rinderhorn (9852’) (to the S. of which is the snow-clad Grosse Rinderhorn, 11,372’), lies embedded the Schwarze, or Zagen Glacier. The glacier is drained by the Schwarzbach, or Spittelmatt Dala. We next traverse a stony wilderness, the scene of a landslip. to the (1/2 hr.) *Inn (R. 2, B. 1 1/2, A. 1/2 fr.) of Schwarenbach (6775; ascent from Kandersteg 3, descent 2 hrs.; from the inn to the Baths of Leuk 2 1/2 hrs. )
The *Balmhorn (12,100), the highest peak of the Altels group, is ascended from this point without danger in 5-6 hrs., by the Zagen Glacier and Zagen Grat (guide necessary, 30 fr.). The magnificent panorama from the summit embraces the Alps of Bern and the Valais, and extends to N. Switzerland. — The ascent of the Altels (11.922!) is more difficult owing to the steepness of the snow-slopes, and suitable for skilled mountaineers only (6-7 hrs., rope and ice-axe necessary; guide 25 fr.).
After 1/2 hr. the path skirts the shallow and muddy Daubensee (7238'), a lake 1 M. in length, fed by the waters of the Lämmeren Glacier (see below), with no visible outlet, and generally frozen for seven months in the year. The well-constructed path leads on the E. bank of the lake, at some height above it, to (10 min.) the summit of the pass, called the Daube (7553’), or Gemmi, at the base of the Daubenhorn (9449'), the barren limestone-rocks of which rise abruptly to the right. A magnificent *View of part of the Rhone Valley and the Alps of the Valais is obtained from a slight eminence a few min. from the pass, to the left of the path. The lofty group of mountains to the extreme left are the Mischabelhörner; more to the right rises the huge Weisshorn, then the Bruneckhorn, the pyramid of the Matterhorn, and still more to the right the Dent Blanche. At a giddy depth below lie the Baths of Leuk, and beyond them Inden (p. 154). On the W. the moraines of the Lämmeren Glacier extend nearly to the pass; above the glacier rises a glistening snow-peak, and near it the huge, rocky Wildstrubel (p. 156). Abundant flora.
About 5 min. below the pass is a stone-hut for sheep, on the brink of an almost perpendicular rock, 1800’ in height, down which the Cantons of Bern and Valais constructed one of the most remarkable of Alpine routes, in 1736-41, from this point to Leuk upwards of 2 M. in length, and nowhere less than 5’ in width. The windings are skilfully hewn in the rock, often resembling a spiral staircase, the upper parts actually projecting at places beyond the lower. The steepest parts and most sudden corners are protected by parapets. At a point called ‘Im Lerch’ the remains of a wooden hut, behind which a cavern is said to exist, are seen in a now inaccessible position on a perpendicular cliff above a rocky gorge, where there is a fine echo. Although the path appears so unprotected when seen from below, it may be traversed with perfect safety, even by persons inclined to giddiness if accompanied by a guide (descent to the Baths 1 1/2, ascent 2 1/2 hrs.). The descent on horseback should be avoided. In 1861 a Comtesse d'Herlincourt fell from her saddle over the precipice and was killed on the spot. Litters may also be hired for the passage of the Gemmi. The regulations require 4 bearers for each litter; 6 for a person above the usual weight, and 8 for a ‘poids extraordinaire’. The openings in the walls of the meadows at the foot of the Gemmi are used to facilitate the counting of sheep.
Baths of Leuk (4643’), or Loëche-les-Bains. — *HÔTEL DES ALPES, with springs, and commanding a fine view; *BELLEVUE pension in these 9-11 fr., R.2-3, B. 1 1/2, D. 4-5, A 1 fr.; *HÔTEL DE FRANCE *UNION, R.2, B. 1 ½, D. 3. pension 6 fr.; HÔTEL BRUNNER, similar charges; MAISON BLANCHE, with its dépendance GRAND BAIN; CROIX FÉDÉRALE, unpretending; GUILL. TELL. Horse to Kandersteg 20, Schwarenbach 12, Daube 8 fr.; Porter to Kandersteg 10, Schwarenbach 6, Daube 4, foot of the Gemmi 3 fr. — Post Umnibus from July to 15th Sept. twice daily from the Baths to Leuk, Susten (5 fr., coupé 6 fr.), and Sierre (8 fr., coupé 10 fr.), descending in 5 ½, ascending in 7 hrs. ‘Also private omnibuses of the Hôtel des Alpes and the Bellevue at Sierre (p. 270). — One-horse carriage to Susten 14, Sierre 20, Vispach 25, Brieg 30 fr.; two-horse carr. about one half more.
Bad Leuk, a village consisting chiefly of wooden houses, with 550 (Rom. Cath.) inhab., situated on green pastures in a valley opening to the S., and watered by the Dala, lies 2920’ below the Daube (Gemmi), and 2590’ above the Rhone. In July and August, the Baths, which are locally known as Baden, or Ober-Baden, are much frequented by French, Swiss, and Italian visitors. The massive embankment on the E. side protects the village against avalanches. In the height of summer the sun disappears about 5 p.m. The huge, perpendicular wall of the Gemmi presents a weird appearance by moonlight.
The Springs, 22 in number, rising in and near the village, and so abundant that nine-tenths of the water flow unused into the Dala, are chiefly beneficial in cases of cutaneous disease. They vary in strength and temperature (93-123), the Lorenz Spring being the most powerful. Their sanitary properties appear to depend more on the mode in which they are used than on their mineral ingredients. In order to avoid the tedium of a long and solitary immersion, the patients, clothed in long flannel dresses, sit up to their necks in water in a common bath, where they remain for several hours together. Each bather has a small floating table before him, from which his book, newspaper, or coffee is enjoyed. The utmost order and decorum are preserved. Travellers are admitted to view this singular and somewhat uninviting spectacle. The charge for a single bath is 2 fr. — The old bath-house, opposite to the new, contains baths 2 1/2 ft. only in depth, now used by the poorer classes. All the baths are open from 4 to 10 a.m., and from 2 to 5 p.m.
Excursions. A walk, partially shaded, and affording a beautiful view of the right bank of the Dala, leads from the promenade to the foot of a lofty precipice (1/2 hr.) on the left bank of the Dala. The traveller then ascends by eight rude Ladders (échelles), attached to the perpendicular face of the rock, to a good path at the top, which leads in 1 hr. to the village of Albinen, or Arbignon (4252'). Persons liable to dizziness should not attempt the ascent, but the fine view obtained from a projecting rock above the second ladder will repay the climber. The descent is more difficult than the ascent.
Excursions may also be made to the Fall of the Dala, 1/2 hr., Dala Glacier (with guide), 2 1/2 hrs. to a waterfall on the right bank of the Dala, 1/2 hr., to the Foljeret-Alp, 3/4 hr., to the Torrent-Alp, 1 1/2 hr. The *Torrenthorn (9679"), which commands a magnificent prospect of the snow-mountains and glaciers of the Bernese Oberland and of the Pennine Alps from Monte Rosa to Mont Blanc, may be ascended on foot or on horseback in 4 1/2 hrs. (descent 2 1/2-3 hrs.; horse 15 fr.; guide, not absolutely necessary, 10 fr.). The route may be varied by descending by the Maing-Glacier (guide indispensable). Travellers coming from the Rhone Valley, and desirous of visiting Albinen and the Torrenthorn, effect a considerable saving by proceeding direct from the village of Leuk (see below) to Albinen, and thence with a guide by Chermignon to the Torrenthorn, from which they may then descend to the Baths of Leuk. The Galmhorn (8081'), near Chermignon, is also frequently ascended. — Passes: To the Lötschenthal by the Scheidschur-Pass or the Regizzi- Furka, fatiguing. — To Kandersteg over the Dala- Pass or Flüh- Pass, 9 brs., interesting and not difficult; over the Thierhörnli-Pass, 9-10 hrs., laborious. — To Lenk over the Lämmeren Glacier, 11-12 hrs., difficult, for experienced mountaineers only, with able guides (comp. p. 156).
The carriage-road to Leuk crosses the Dala immediately below the Baths, follows the lofty right bank, and descends to (3 M.) Inden (3858’; *Inn). It then (1 1/2 M.) recrosses the Dala, commanding magnificent views of the Dala ravine and the little village of Albinen situated on the precipitous slopes opposite. The old bridle-path to the left of the inn at Inden, which rejoins the high-road near the bridge, and, 1 1/4 M. beyond the bridge, a path to the right by a small chapel descending to Leuk, are short-cuts. Distance from the Baths to the Rhone-bridge 8 M.
DIRECT ROAD TO SIEERE. Travellers bound for Sion and Martigny effect a saving of 1 hr. by quitting the road to the right, by a slate quarry, 8 min. before the last-mentioned bridge is reached, and skirting the brink of a precipice on the right bank of the Dala. In 12 min. a small tunnel is reached, and in 2 min. more a second. Above the dirty, but picturesque (3/4 hr.) village of Varen (2565’), situated at the apex of the right angle which the ravine of the Dala forms with the valley of the Rhone, a striking view is obtained of the latter from Vispach to Martigny , a distance of 45 M., of the Forest of Pfyn, and the huge yellow basin of the Illgraben on the opposite mountains. Then (3/4 hr.) Salgesch (2313") and (3/4 hr.) Sierre, (see p. 270).
At the mouth of the Dala ravine the carriage-road to Leuk still remains high above the Rhone Valley, of which a beautiful view as far as Martigny is disclosed. The descent is very attractive.
Leuk, or Loëche-Ville (2608'; Couronne; omnibus to Sierre at 8 a.m., fare 1 1/2 fr.), is a small town (pop. 1220) situated on a height 3/4 M. from the Rhone, and commanded by a picturesque old castle. The culture of the vine begins here. The high-road from Sierre to Brieg (diligence three times daily, p. 268) leads through the little village of Susten (2044’; *Hôtel de la Souste), on the opposite bank of the Rhone.
The dusty high-road in the Rhone Valley (p. 269), which averages 3 M. in breadth, and is marshy at places, forms an unpleasing contrast to the magnificent route just described, and is of course unsuitable for pedestrians. One-horse carr. to Vispach 8, to the Baths of Leuk 14 fr.