250 46. The Black Forest (Duchy of Baden).
Pedestrian Tour of eleven days from Baden. 1st. Ebersteinschloss, Forbach, Schönmünzach (p. 252). — 2nd. Hornisgrinde, Mummelsee, Allerheiligen (p. 254). — 8rd. Oppeneu, (drive to) Griesbach, Holzwälderhöhe, Rippoldsau, Schapbach (p. 256). — 4th. Wolfach, Hornberg, Triberg (p. 259). — 5th. Furtwagen, Simonswald, Waldkirch, Denzlingen railway to Freiburg. — 6th. Freiburg and Environs. — 7th. (Drive to entrance of the) Höllenthal, Feldberg, Menzenschwand (p. 268). — 8th. St. Blasien, Höchenschwand, the Albstrasse to Albbruck (p. 273). — 9th. Railway to Brennet, Wehr (cavern at Hasel), Todtmoos (p. 267). — 10th. Präg, Schönau, Belchen (p. 271). — 11th. Badenweiler and environs.
The following routes are so planned, that after a walk of 2—3 days the railway may always be reached. The pedestrian will find the following maps, published by Herder at Freiburg, of great service: 1. Baden and the Kniebisbäder; 2. Environs of Freiburg; 3. S. Valleys of the Black Forest. Mounted, 1 fl. 12kr. each.
Of all the wooded districts of Germany, none present so beautiful and varied landscapes as the Black Forest, especially the W. portion, belonging to Baden, the spurs of which decline precipitously towards the plain of the Rhine, whilst the E. slopes are more gradual. The lower heights are covered with fragrant pine forest, while the populous valleys present a scene of luxuriant vegetation. The rocks are gneiss, granite, and sandstone. Numerous mineral springs have given rise to a number of little watering places, which offer tempting retreats. Even in remote districts the inns are good (trout everywhere).
The staple commodity is timber, which is floated down the principal streams to the Rhine, where larger rafts are constructed and navigated to Holland. Watch-making is an increasing branch of industry. In this prosperous district beggars are unknown.
a. From Baden to Gernsbach and Allerheiligen. Murgthal, Hornisgrinde, Mummelsee.
Comp. Map, p. 194.
Two Days. 1st. Baden to Gernsbach 6 M., thence to Forbach 10 M. (or from Baden to Forbach direct 12 M., see p. 251), Forbach to Schönmünzach 7 M.; 2nd. Schönmünzach to the summit of the Hornisgrinde 4 ½ hrs, , down to the Mummelsee 1/2 hr., Seebach 1 hr., Ottenhöfen 3/4, hr., and thence over the hill to Allerheiligen 1 1/2 hr — Conveyances may be hired at Gernsbach, Forbach, and Schönmünzach 5 two-horse carr. for 4 pers. from Gernsbach to Schönmünzach 6 fl. 45 kr., Forbach to Schönmünzach 4 fl., Schönmünzach to the Eckle (3/4, hr. from the Hornisgrinde) 5 fl. 36 kr.; the carriage-road ends here. — From Gernsbach to Schönmünzach post-omnibus twice daily in 4 hrs. (fare .1 fl.), and Freudenstadt in 6 1/3 hrs. (fare 1 ¾ fl.).
The Murg rises on the Kniebis (p. 255) from three springs which unite below Baiersbronn (p. 252). After a course of 45 M. it falls into the Rhine below Rastatt. The inhabitants of its banks are almost exclusively engaged in the timber-traffic. The wood felled in winter is carried down by the spring floods to the Rhine, and crowds often assemble to witness the vast masses precipitated into the stream.
The *Murgthal between Gernsbach and Schönmünzach is wild and beautiful. The slopes are richly clothed with wood, often enlivened by green meadows and cottages in the Swissstyle. As far as Schönmünzach the rocks consist of granite, huge blocks of which lie scattered about; beyond it the formation is gneiss, whence the smooth, rounded aspect of the slopes. Variegated sandstone also occurs. The valley then widens and loses much of its peculiar charm. It is seen to the best advantage in descending.
Baden to Gernsbach and the Ebersteinschloss, see p. 199. The road in the Murgthal gradually ascends at the foot of the hill on which the Ebersteinschloss stands. The pedestrian coming from Forbach follows the footpath by the last house at Obertsroth (1 M. from Gernsbach) in order to reach the castle.
At(1 M.) Hilpertsau the road crosses the Murg. A road traversing picturesque scenery leads hence by Reichenthal and the forester’s house of Kaltenbronn, and past the (r.) Hohlochthurm to (21 M.) Wildbad (comp. p. 238). The next village is (1 M.) Weissenbach (*Grüner Baum), the modern Gothic church of which contains some good stained glass and modern altar-pieces. The hamlet of Au lies picturesquely on the l. bank of the Murg. The valley becomes narrower and wilder; (2 ½ M.) Langenbrand (Ochs) ; (1 1/2 M.) Gausbach. A pleasant path, shaded in the afternoon, leads from Weissenbach by Au on the l, bank of the Murg to Langenbrand; the Murg is crossed by a stone bridge near the latter village, which the traveller then reaches by the high road. A pretty panorama is commanded by an eminence, shortly before the bridge is reached. — Near Forbach the road crosses the Murg by a covered bridge.
Forbach (* Krone, conveyances; “Hirsch and Löwe, by the bridge), a thriving village, with a church picturesquely situated on an eminence, is the finest point in the valley.
The Footpath from Baden to Forbach (12 M.) diverges to the r. from the carriage-road to Ebersteinschloss at a finger-post 3//4 M. beyond Oberbeuren (p. 200), being at first a broad track ; 3/4 M., Geisbach, then (1 1/2 M.) Schmalbach, where the road to the l. must be followed ; 1 ½ M. farther the broad path diverges to the r. from the road and leads for 1 M along the E. slope of the hill, passing a meadow. At the end of the meadow turn to the l; at a cross-way, 1/4 M. farther, ascend the hill in a straight direction; in 1/4 M. more the main road is reached and is followed for 3/4 M.; at the finger-post turn to the l. to Bermersbach (1 1/4, M.). The path now ascends to the r. by the village-well and 1 1/4 M. farther reaches Forbach, The first 9 M. are chiefly through wood.
A lonely: but easily traced forest-path leads from Forbach to the W. to (3 hrs.) Herrenwies (Auerhahn), & village situated on a bleak and lofty plain surrounded by high mountains. Thence to railway stat. Bühl (p.200) a beautiful walk of 3 hrs. through the Bühlerthal to the Hornisgrinde and Mummelsee (p. 258) also 3 hrs.
Beyond Forbach the Murgthal, although more deserted, continues grand and beautiful, resembling some of the wildest Swiss valleys; below dashes the torrent over scattered rocks, while dark, overhanging pine-clad hills rise on either side.
About halfway to Schönmünzach the Rauhmünzach falls into the Murg; 1 M, from the confluence the former is augmented by the Schwarzbach, which forms a waterfall (insignificant in dry weather). A new road leads through the valley of the Schwarzbach to (10 ½ M.) Herrenwies (see above).
Schönmünzach (*Glashütte, or Post ; * Waldhorn), the first village in Wurtemberg, consists of a few houses. The brook of the same name falls into the Murg here. (Bathing-place in the latter on the l, bank, 1/4 M. above the Post.) To the Hornisgrinde, see below.
The Murg, 1 1/2, M. beyond Schönmünzach, penetrates a precipitous wall of rock, beyond which the valley loses its wild character. The village of Schwarzenberg (Ochs) on the height to the l. commands a pleasant view; on the r. Hutsenbach; then (2 1/4 M.) Schönengrund (Inn), whence a road leads to the N. by Besenfeld and Urnagold to Enzklösterle, and through the Enzthal to Wildbad. On this road, 3/4 M. from Schönengrund, are situated the scanty remains of the castle of Königswart.
The next village in the Murgthal is (3 3/4 M.) Reichenbach (Sonne, R. 36, D. 36, pension 1 fl. 45kr.), the Romanesque church of which, erected in 1402, once belonged to a Benedictine abbey. Then (2 1/4 M.) Baiersbronn (Ochs), a considerable village at the confluence of the Murg and the Forbach.
The road following the course of the latter passes the consilderable government foundries of Friedrichsthal and Christophsthal, and leads to 4 1/2 M.) Freudenstadt (*Post; Löwe; Linde), a loftily situated town of Wurtemberg with 4200 inhab., and curiously constructed Protestant church. This edifice consists of two naves at right angles to each other, in one of which the male, and in the other the female members of the congregation sit, while the altar and pulpit are placed at the angle. The Romanesque font and the skilfully carved choir-stalls are worthy of notice. Near the Rom. Cath. church, 1/2 M. from the town, a *view of the Swabian Alb, Hohenzollern &c. may be enjoyed. — Good roads lead from Freudenstadt to the W. over the Kniebis (p. 255) to Oppenau, to the S. to Alpirsbach and Schiltach (p. 258), and to the E. by Dornstetten to Horb on the Upper Neckar Railway (comp. Baedeker's S. Germany).
At Baiersbronn the valley of the Murg turns towards the N.W., and is traversed by a new road. From (3 M.) Mittelthal ( Waldhorn) a good road leads S. to the (4 1/2 M.) Kniebis Refuge near the Schwedenschanze (p. 255). The next village in the Murgthal, into which numerous brooks are precipitated from the Kniebis, is (3 M.) Oberthal (halfway to which the ruin of Tannenfels is situated on a precipitous rock in a wild gorge on the r.); on the l. is the extensive Buhlbach Glasshouse The road continues to ascend, finally in long windings, to (6 M.) the Ruhstein (Inn), its culminating point, whence it descends (commanding several fine views) to (3 M.) Seebach (p. 253). From the last bend in the road (finger-post on the r.) the Mummelsee (see below) may be reached in 3/4 hr.
To the Hornisgrinde and Mummelsee the most fre- quented road from the Murgthal ascends from Schönmünzach (see above) to the W. on the r. bank of the Schönmünzach (and there is also a pew road on the 1. bank) to Zwickgabel (3 M.), crosses the brook, and ascends to the r. along the Langenbach, which at Zwickgabel unites with the Schönmünzach ; passes (1 1/2 M.) Vorder-Langenbach, where there is a timber sluice, and at (2 1/4 M.) Hinter-Langenbach (Züpfle), ascends to the l.; guides for the Hornisgrinde and Mummelsee may be procured here.
The road now ascends more abruptly to the (3 M.) Eckle, a strip of wood on the mountain, where a stone marks the boundary between Wurtemberg and Baden, and a view of the Vosges is obtained. The road to the l. descends to Seebach, situated on the new road through the Murgthal (see above); a footpath only leads to the Horniserinde.
Three paths enter the wood at the Eckle: that most to the r., a bridle-path, leading straight to the S., forms the boundary between the above states; the second and most trodden, also inclining to the r., leads past the Drei-Fürstenstein , bearing the arms of Baden and Wurtemberg, to the summit of the Hornisgrinde. The third path (to the Mummelsee), at first little trodden, runs parallel with the road, and after a few paces joins a broad track, which slightly ascends the hill-side; the broad stony path ascending to the r., 10 min. from the Eckle, then leads to the lake in 1/4 hr.
The second of the above paths leads to the (25 min.) *Hornisgrinde (3825 ft.), the top of which is marked by a massive stone Signal, supported by stakes. The bare and marshy summit commands a very extensive view, which however is frequently shrouded in mist : to the E. the Swabian Alb, the Achalm at Reutlingen , the Hohentwiel, and other peaks of the Höhgau; S. the heights of the Black Forest, Feldberg, Belchen, Blauen, and beyond them even the Alps (comp. p. 272); S.W. the Kaiserstuhl (p. 244), and Vosges; W. the vast plain of the Rhine; nearly opposite rises the spire of Strassburg, and on a mountain in the foreground the extensive ruins of the Brigittenschloss (p. 201); N. the mountains around Baden, the Mercuriusberg (p. 199), and even the Thurmberg near Durlach.
From the Hornisgrinde the new path descends in windings to the S.E. in 1 hr, to the Mummelsee (3385 ft.), a gloomy little lake, surrounded by pine clad mountains, and popularly believed to be inhabited by water-sprites. By the Seebach, the brook. issuing from the lake on the S., is a hut which affords shelter in bad weather. Excellent water issues from the rock at the N.W. corner, about ten paces above the lake, near the path from the Hornisgrinde.
From the Mummelsce a steep footpath descends in 1/2 hr. to the new Murgthal road (p. 252), reaching it at the inn *Zum Adler. On this road Seebach (lower part 1174 ft., upper 1623 ft.) (Krone; Hirsch) lies 1 1/2 M. farther. From Seebach two routes lead to Allerheiligen (p. 254), one an uninteresting path over the mountains (in 1 1/2 hr., guide 36 kr.); the other and more attractive follows the valley as far as (2 1/4 M.) Ottenhöfen (p. 254); thence to Allerheiligen, see below.
b. Allerheiligen Büttenstein Waterfalls, Kniebisbäder.
Comp. Map, pp. 194, 238.
Two Days. 1st. From Achern to Griesbach 24 M., better by carriage; 2nd. To Hausach 24M. — Or the traveller may accomplish this tour in one day by carriage: From Achern to Neuhaus (one-horse carr. 5, two horse 8 fl. p. 200) in 1 1/2 hr.; walk to Allerheiligen 3/4 hr. , from the inn to the foot of the falls 20 min., then drive (one-horse 3 1/2 fl.) to Griesbach 2 1/4 hrs.; walk over the Holzwälder Höhe to Rippoldsau 2 ¼ hrs; drive (4 fl; omnibus twice daily 1 fl. 24 kr.) to Hausach 3 hrs.
Achern (p. 200) is the starting-point for this tour. The road to Allerheiligen leads through the Kappeler Thal, a pleasant, green dale (to the l. on the hill, the Brigittenschloss. p . 201), past the villages of (1/2 M.) Oberachern and (2 1/2 M.) Kappel (*Ochs), and ascends by the course of the Achernbach (to the r. the château of Rodeck) to (3 M.) Ottenhöfen (1020 ft.) (*Linde, *Pflug, * Wagen, unpretending ; pension in all about 1 1/2 fl.).
From Ottenhöfen to Allerheiligen by the Edelfrauengrab and the Blöchereck (2 1/4 hrs.), a very attractive walk. From church turn to the l., then follow the footpath immediately to the r., and the road to the l. higher up. After 10 min. follow the middle road in a straight direction, traverse the pretty Gottschlägthal, cross the brook several times, and finally ascend by steps to the (20 min.) Edelfrauengrab (‘grave of the noble lady’), a very insignificant grotto to which a romantic legend attaches. The environs are very picturesque, especially the road ascending beyond this point. Good road the whole way provided with finger-posts. Then (1 hr.) Blöchereck, beyond which the wood is traversed, and the new road soon reached (see below); 1/2 hr., Allerheiligen. — Travellers coming from Seebach (p. 251) need not proceed as far as Ottenhöfen, but should diverge to the l. at the Hagenbrücke, 3/4 M. from Seebach, and enter the Gottschlägthal.
The carriage-road from Ottenhöfen to Allerheiligen ascends the Unterwasser-Thal towards the S. to the (2 1/4 M.) Neuhaus (Erbprinz). Here the new road describes a wide curve in the valley towards the l., while the old road ascends the steep slope on the r., on the summit of which the roads again unite. Fine retrospective views from the new road; 1 1/2 M. from the Neuhaus a way – post indicates the way to the Edelfrauengrab by Blöchereck (see above),
From the top of the hill (from which a short cut descends by steps to the the road descends in windings to (2 1/4 M.) *Allerheiligen (1968 ft.), the first glimpse of which is very striking. The grand ruins of the Premonstratensian Abbey founded by the Duchess Uta of Schauenburg in 1196, secularized in 1802, and partly destroyed by lightning in 1803, occupy almost the entire breadth of the wooded dale. Travellers should use the utmost caution in exploring them, owing to their unsafe condition. A Prussian gentleman lost his life here in 1862. Mittenmaier’s Inn (D. 1 fl. 12 kr.) is often full in summer; travellers should therefore arrive early, as they may have to continue their journey the same evening.
From Allerheiligen to Rippoldsau direct (4 hrs.) over the Kniebis (guide unnecessary, way-posts everywhere). The route is through wood for the first hour; farther on, an extensive prospect is enjoyed, embracing the plain of the Rhine, Strassburg, and the Vosges Mts.1 1/2 hr. Refuge by the Schwedenschanze; 1 hr. Kniebis; 1 1/2 hr. Rippoldsau. A shorter route thither leads from the Alexanderschanze: follow the Griesbach road for 1/2 M., then enter the wood to the l.; after 20 min, more, where the path divides, select that descending rapidly to the r.
Immediately below the monastery is a rugged cleft in the rocks, formed apparently by volcanic agency, through which the Grindenbach is precipitated over blocks of granite in seven falls, termed the ‘Sieben Bütten’ (Seven cauldrons), or *Büttenstein Falls, some of them 50 ft. in height, into the valley beneath. A good path, cut through the rock at places, or supported by ladders, descends by the falls to the (20 min.) bottom of the valley, 300 ft. below. From the second ‘Rondel’, or platform, the double fall is best surveyed. The waterfalls, which are chiefly remarkable for their picturesque accessories, are seen to the best advantage in ascending from the valley below.
At the finger-post by the bridge beyond the falls the carriage-road from Allerheiligen is reached; and it now follows the bank of the Lierbach (as the Grindenbach is now called), high on the slope of the hill. At the Kreuz Inn, near Oppenau , the road to Freudenstadt and Antogast (see below) diverges to the r. At (6 M.) the busy little town of Oppenau (*Stahlbad; Post) ‘Kirschwasser’ is largely manufactured. Through the Renchthal to Appenweier, see p. 201.
The Kniebis Road ascends the Rossbühl from Oppenau in windings (pleasing retrospects) to the (6 M.) Schwabenschanze (‘Swabian intrenchment’), an earth-work throen up during the last century; 1/4 M. to the S. is the Schwedenschanze; near it the inn *Zur Zuflucht. About 1 1/2 M. farther is the grass-grown Alexanderschanze (Inn), on the summit of the Kniebis (1476 it), which commands an extensive view towards the S. and, E., and whence a good road diverges to the S. to Griesbach. At the inn Zum Lamm, 1 M. farther, another road diverges, leading to Rippoldsau by the E. side of the Holzwälder Höhe. The Kniebis road then leads by the (Wurtemberg village of Kniebis (#Ochs; Lamm) to (6 3/4 M.) Freudenstadt (p. 253)
Proceeding to the S. from Oppenau (diligence twice daily), the traveller enters the attractive valley of the rapid Rench, in which the ‘Kniebis Baths’ of Freiersbach, Petersthal, and Griesbach are situated. From (3 3/4 M.) Löcherberg roads lead to the S. through the (W.) Nordrachthal, and the (E.) Harmersbachthal to (101/2 M.) Zellam Harmersbach (p. 257). The next place in the Renchthal is (2 1/4 M.) Freiersbach (1260 ft.) (Meyer's Hôtel, with baths), with sulphureous and chalybeate springs, situated in a pretty dale, enclosed by lofty hills. Then (3/4 M.) Bad Petersthal (Schlüssel and Kaiser von Deutschland in the village; Müller’s Hotel and Baths, with post and telegraph office , at the upper end), the most important of these small watering-places, in a sheltered situation, embellished with well-kept grounds. The springs contain iron and carbonic acid gas.
A beautiful route leads hence to the E. through the Freiersthal and Wildschapbachthal into the Schapbachthal (p. 256)
The Renchthal now turns towards the N.; 2 1/4 M. Griesbach (1626 ft.) (*Monsch-Jockerst’s Baths, an extensive establishment, R 1fl, B. 24, A. 18 kr.), possesses a chalybeate spring, extolled 200 years ago by Tabernæmontanus. Most of the patients are ladies. A fourth of these Kniebis Baths is Antogast (1585 ft.) (*Huber), known as early as the 16th cent., charmingly situated in the pretty Maisachthal, 3 M. to the E. of Oppenau.
The road through the Renchthal now ascends in windings to the Kniebis. About 3/4 M. beyond Griesbach, three paths diverge to the r.; of these select that farthest to the l., a broad track provided with benches, following the telegraph-wires. Resin is here largely obtained from incisions made in the pine-stems.
About 5 min. below the summit is the ‘Sophien-Ruhe’, which affords a fine retrospect of the Griesbach Valley. The path on the highest part of the Holzwälder Höhe (3004 ft.) is level for a few hundred paces, and then descends by long windings (timber – path to the l. to be avoided) to the (3/4 hr.) Kniebis road, which leads to the r. to (1 M.) Rippoldsau (1856 ft.), the most frequented of the Kniebis Baths (2000 visitors annually), situated in the sequestered, pine-clad Wolfthal. The water contains sulphate of soda, and is beneficial in bowel-complaints. It is exported in bottles (800,000 annually), and the chemical ingredients of the water are sold under the name of ‘Rippoldsau salts’. Göringer’s hotel and bath-house affords good accommodation (R. 1 fl., D. 1 fl. 24 kr.); music 7—8 p.m. — Omnibus twice daily to Hausach (1 fl. 24 kr.); one -horse carr, to Hausach 4 fi.; railway thence to Offenburg, see below.
The dissolved Benedictine priory, or ‘Klösterle’ (Zum Erbprinzen, R. 48, D. 4 fl. 12, B. 18 kr.; carriages), with its church with two towers, founded in the 12th cent., lies 3/4 M. below the baths, on the road descending the picturesque valley of the Wolfbach. To the 1. of the road 3/4 M. from the Klösterle, are some huge granite rocks, near which the Burbach forms a small waterfall (in rainy weather only). On the r., 1 M. farther, the Seebach, which drains the lonely Wildsee, or Glaswald-See on the “hill (1 1/2 hr. from the road), dashes down from a wild ravine. Below this point the valley is termed the Schapbachthal.
Schapbach (*Ochs, at the lower end of the village; Adler, Sonne), 6 M. from Rippoldsau, is a long, straggling village remark- able for the quaint costume of the peasants and the curious con- struction of their cottages. (Ground-floor stable, first-floor dwelling- house, granary and hay-loft above.) On the r., 1/2 M. beyond the village, opens the Wildschapbachthal, through which the route men- tioned at p. 255 leads to Petersthal. Then (6 3/4 M.) Oberwolfach, and (1 M.) Wolfach, see p. 258.
c. From Offenburg to Constance. Kinzigthal, Triberg, Valleys of Simonswald and Elz. [See Text]