Winter Excursion to the Sutherd
Sam took a cruise of "The West Indies" aboard Henry Rogers' yacht, the Kanawha. The party consisted of Laurence Hutton, H.H. Rogers, Clemens, Clarence C. Rice, Colonel Augustus G. Paine, Thomas B. Reed, and Wallace Turner Foote, Jr.. Sam kept a log of the cruise to points south, the MS of which is at the Mark Twain Project, called “Winter-end Excursion to the Sutherd.”
“Thursday, March 13. Moved down by rail. Remembered with fruit from Mrs. Broughton, & violets from Mrs. Harry Rogers, jr.”
March 13 Thursday – Sam’s notebook: “Home. Noon. Leaving for the South. Shall consult Tom Reed & see if an action can be brought against Hearst [for the NY Journal abuses]. Left Jersey City 2.10 / Basket fruit from Mrs. Broughton & violets from Harry’s wife” [NB 45 TS 5]. Note: the Kanawha likely stopped at Jersey City to pick up Laurence Hutton. The party consisted of Laurence Hutton, H.H. Rogers, Clemens, Clarence C. Rice, Colonel Augustus G. Paine, Thomas B.
March 14 Friday – Sam’s notebook: “Charlston, S.C. about 8 a.m. / Lighted at the Ponce de Leon” [NB 45 TS 5].
Sam’s ship log: “Nighted at the Ponce de Leon” [MTP]. Note: the “Lighted” in the NB may be a typo.
Livy’s diary: “Susy Twichell & her friend Mrs lunched with us; Florence Gay dined with us & spent the night” [MTP: DV161].
The men left the Kanawha at Charleston, and took the Florida Special train, where Sam wrote to Livy,
March 15 Saturday – At the Hotel Ponce de Leon in St. Augustine, Fla. Sam wrote to Livy.
Dearheart, we came to the hotel to dine & wait for the evening train; but concluded to stay all night, for which I was glad, as I was very tired. I was in bed & asleep by 8 o’clock, but the others went to some kind of a show, & Hutton did not get to bed till after midnight—& the show wasn’t worth it.
March 16 Sunday – At the Royal Poinciana in Palm Beach, Fla. Sam wrote to Livy.
Livy darling, the whole multitude in this vast hotel wear Panama hats—& there isn’t one among them that is as fine as the one I left in Riverdale. I did not remember that I had such a thing until Rice inquired after it. He has lent me a nice soft hat to use until I can buy a straw.
March 17 Monday – At the Royal Poinciana in Palm Beach, Fla. Sam wrote to Livy. The men had just been notified of the Kanawha’s arrival in Miami, and so were “packing & rushing.” The sister of Mrs. Alice M. Ditson) as well as Col. A.G. Paine raved about the Hot Springs and told of a special train from N.Y. that arrived there overnight; he felt they should try it for Livy’s gout. In his prior letter Sam gave Livy a Havana address c/o H.H.
March 18 Tuesday – Sam’s notebook: “All morning at Miami. Visited Mrs. Whitehead (Lucy Page) / Anchored outside about 4” [NB 45 TS 6]. Sam’s ship log: “All the morning at Miami. Anchored outside about 4” [MTP].
On board the Kanawha in Miami, Fla., Sam wrote to Beatrice M. Benjamin, H.H. Rogers’ granddaughter.
March 19 Wednesday – On board the Kanawha, in Miami, Fla., “at anchor, waiting,” Sam wrote to Livy.
“Livy, darling, we did not get away this morning, but are lying far out in a brilliant & beautiful light green sea, the loveliest color imaginable. It was stormy outside, but it is no longer so, & the pilot says he will sail now, in a little while” [LLMT 335].
Sam’s notebook: “Sailed in afternoon after 3. Beautiful green sea—then blue. Susy’s birthday” [NB 45 TS 6].
March 20 Thursday – On Mar. 21 Sam wrote from the Hotel Colonial, Nassau, Bahamas to Livy about the events of this day:
We were intending to sail for Havana yesterday evening, sweetheart, but have been delayed by slow coaling-processes. We expect to get away this evening.
March 21 Friday – On board the Kanawha at Nassau, Bahamas, Sam wrote on Hotel Colonial letterhead to Livy about activities of the prior day (see entry). He added after this narrative:
The sea-colors here are all beautiful—splendid bars & stretches of brilliant green—others of brilliant blue—others of rich purple & bronze, & so on. A lady (so report says) brought away a bottle-full of each color to show home at America.
March 22 Saturday – Sam’s notebook: “Very hot in the staterooms last night. Governor of Nassau (Bahamas?) Sir Gilbert Carter. Have known him before. His secretary, Gladstone. Sailed at 4 pm. Arrived at Key West— uninteresting” [NB 45 TS 7].
Sam’s ship log: “Arrived at Key West. Niggers, mulattoes, whites, Spaniards, Cubans, & other human wreckage. Nothing of interest there, except for God. Apparently He is interested in anything that comes along” [MTP].
March 23 Sunday – Sam’s notebook: “Sailed 1 a.m. (90 m Reached Havana 7 a m Palm Sunday. Could not coal. Saw only 3 priests. Visited a church. At 3 or 4 drove in the Prado. Picturesque & interesting. Demi-monde street. ” [NB 45 TS 7].
Sam’s ship log:
Sailed at 1 a.m.
Reached Havana at 7 a.m.; 90 miles.
March 24 Monday – On board the Kanawha in Havana harbor, Sam wrote to Livy [MTP].
Dearheart, we are anchored fifty yards from the wrenched & tangled battered bunch of rusty iron which stands for the “Maine” & looks like a brobdignagian tarantula in his death-squirm.
Sam then wrote of the activities of the prior day, Mar. 23 (see entry), and finished with:
March 25 Tuesday – The Kanawha was en route around the western tip of Cuba, then south and east to Kingston, Jamaica. Sam’s notebook gives their progress: “Turned western end of Cuba 8 a.m. Balmy weather. Deep-blue sea. Flying fishes. It is 756 knots from Havana to Kingston. We have permits from H.B.M. Consul” [NB 45 TS 7]. Note: Sam’s ship log gives nearly verbatim the same report.
March 26 Wednesday – The Kanawha was en route to Kingston, Jamaica, arriving there at 5 p.m, as indicated by Sam’s notebook: “Cold salt water baths. / At breakfast in 18° N. Pointed for Jamaica. Rased the island 5 p.m.Too Late. Concluded to sail all around it” [NB 45 TS 7]. Note: Sam’s ship log gives nearly verbatim the same report.
March 27 Thursday – The Kanawha made its way to Kingston, Jamaica.
Sam’s notebook: “7 a.m. took pilot. Black, with 3 young blacks. Quite indifferent to their peril. Had to take their boat aboard—it would never have towed—sea too rough. Island densely wooded—can’t insert a knife between the trees. 9—noon. Ashore & drove. Captain of the Galena—$1” [NB 45 TS 7].
Sam’s ship log:
March 28 Friday – Sam’s Mar. 29 to Livy related this days’ activities in Kingston, Jamaica.
March 29 Saturday – On board the Kanawha in Boden, Jamaica, Sam wrote to Livy [MTP].
March 30 Sunday – The Kanawha made the port of Santiago in southern Cuba, where the men “visited the points of historical interest near Santiago” [NY Times Apr. 1, 1902, p.9 “The Kanawha at Santiago”].
Sam’s notebook: “Easter / Sailed early for Santiago. Rough. Arr. 3 p.m. at the Morro Castle. Prado. Queen’s …. [Square] Well kept cats & dogs. No smoking” [NB 45 TS 8].
March 31 Monday – The Kanawha sailed from Santiago, Cuba, to Nassau, Bahamas.
Sam’s notebook: “Sailed at 8 a.m. on a 2-day stretch due north” [NB 45 TS 8]. Note: Sam’s ship log essentially the same notation.
April 1 Tuesday – At sea on board the Kanawha en route to Nassau, Bahamas, stopped at Rum Cay. Sam wrote to Livy that they were “homeward bound,” though he was unsure when they might reach home, possibly Apr. 12 or 14.
All our prophecies go to grass. We go to places we never intended to visit, & don’t go to others that were on our list. We did not return to Havana, so I have never received any letters but those which you & Jean wrote me on the 19th [not extant]. …
April 2 Wednesday – Sam’s notebook: “10 a.m. Entering Nassau. The blues, greens & bronzes of this water at Nassau surpass all the splendors of any water we have seen. Visit of Mr. Gladstone. / Flying fish 30 ft long” [NB 45 TS 8]. Note: Sam’s ship log essentially the same report.
In Nassau, Bahamas, Sam wrote to Livy.
April 3 Thursday – Sam’s notebook: “2.30 p.m. called on Sir Gilbert & Miss Carter. / Sailed for Jacksonville at 3./ Appointed Rice to distribute the tips: six of us, $50 apiece, $300” [NB 45 TS 8].
Sam’s ship log: “A flying-fish 30 feet long. It was Rice that saw it. / At 2.30 called on the Government & Miss Carter. Sailed at 3. for Jacksonville” [MTP].
In his Apr. 4 to Livy Sam relates the repose in Nassau (Apr. 2 and 3):
April 4 Friday – On board the Kanawha en route from Nassau, Bahamas to Jacksonville, Fla., Sam wrote to Livy.
April 5 Saturday – On board the Kanawha off Cape Hatteras, N.C., Sam wrote to Livy.
Livy darling it is too bad, I forgot all about Frau von Versen. I hasten at this late day to send a couple of mottoes for you to choose from. I will mail them at Norfolk this evening, & they will beat me home, whether we get delayed or don’t. We are always subject to delays. …
We are off Hatteras, but it is not stormy.
With tons & tons of love.