May 7, 1896 Thursday

May 7 Thursday – At daybreak in Durban, S. Africa, more annoyance:

May 7. A bang on the door at 6. Did I want my boots cleaned? Fifteen minutes later another bang. Did we want coffee? Fifteen later, bang again, my wife’s bath ready; 15 later, my bath ready. Two other bangs; I forget what they were about. Then lots of shouting back and forth, among the servants just as in an Indian hotel.

Evening. At 4 P.M. it was unpleasantly warm. Half-hour after sunset one needed a spring overcoat; by 8 a winter one.

Durban is a neat and clean town. One notices that without having his attention called to it.

Rickshaws drawn by splendidly built black Zulus, so overflowing with strength, seemingly, that it is a pleasure, not a pain, to see them snatch a rickshaw along. They smile and laugh and show their teeth — a good-natured lot. Not allowed to drink; 2s per hour for one person; 3s for two; 3d for a course — one person [FE ch LXV 644].

Just before noon Sam was interviewed in bed by the Natal Mercury; it was published on May 8 as “Mark Twain in Durban: A Bedside Chat with the Humorist,” and reprinted in at least two other S. African newspapers [Philippon 14; Parsons, “Clubman in S.A.” 239]. See Scharnhorst, Interviews 296-300.