Submitted by scott on

September 16 Monday – The Clemens family left Chambéry for Turin by the fast express train, which Sam noted “makes 4 miles an hour—the other trains make only 3 1/4 . By 11 we were out of sight of Chambery.” Three hours from Turin, the train barely won a race with a team of oxen, Sam wrote. It took eight more hours to arrive in Turin, at about 7 PM. They took rooms in the Hotel d’Europe, which Sam noted had “wonderful rooms”. They went to supper and drank Barolo wine.

Settled into their rooms, Sam took a stroll down through an arcade a half-mile, noticing everything. There were more books for sale in Turin than he’d seen anywhere in Europe; the city was beautiful with “vast squares enclosed with Yellowstone huge blocks of palaces”; an open-air concert drew
people to a “yard full of chairs & tables where people drank & smoked”; “pretty shops all around”; “Punchinello show—watched it—.” Sam thought Turin was the “very livest town we have seen since Hamburg” even if it was “but a copy (inferior) of Milan” .

From page 266 The Life of Mark Twain - The Middle Years 1871-1891:

They arrived in Turin about 7:00 p.m. and registered at the “Hotel d’Europe—wonderful rooms—great parlor with walls & windows upholstered in red silk damask 4 sofas upholstered in the same stuff." Though they remained there only two nights, Sam formed a distinctly favorable impression of the city, It was “the very liveliest town we have seen since Hamburg,” he noted in his journal, “in its pavements, squares, arcades & commercial palaces.” He was particularly impressed by the large and “architecturally imposing” public buildings,”

See Bædeker Northern Italy (1877) Route 2 page 23-4 for route.