September 16 Monday – The Clemens family left Chambéry for Turin by the fast express train, which Sam noted “makes 4 miles an hour—the other trains make only 3 1/4 . By 11 we were out of sight of Chambery.” Three hours from Turin, the train barely won a race with a team of oxen, Sam wrote. It took eight more hours to arrive in Turin, at about 7 PM. They took rooms in the Hotel d’Europe, which Sam noted had “wonderful rooms”. They went to supper and drank Barolo wine.
Settled into their rooms, Sam took a stroll down through an arcade a half-mile, noticing everything. There were more books for sale in Turin than he’d seen anywhere in Europe; the city was beautiful with “vast squares enclosed with Yellowstone huge blocks of palaces”; an open-air concert drew
people to a “yard full of chairs & tables where people drank & smoked”; “pretty shops all around”; “Punchinello show—watched it—.” Sam thought Turin was the “very livest town we have seen since Hamburg” even if it was “but a copy (inferior) of Milan” .