ROUTE 34. TOUR IN THE HAURAN,  (page 498)

Damascus to river ’Awaj, Pharpar
Burâk
Musmeih, Phæno
Sh’aârah
Dâma
‘Ahiry

Extent and history of the Lejah, Trachonitis, Argob.
Um ez-Zeitûn
Hît
Bathanyeh, Batanæa
Shukah, Saccæa
Shuhba
Suleim, Neapolis
Kunawât, Canatha, Kenath
‘Atil
Suweideh
Hebrân
Kufr
Kuleib
Sehwet el-Khudr
Sâleh

Route to Safáh and Harrah,
‘Orman, Philippopolis
Sulkhad, Saleah
Kureiyeh, Kerioth
Busrah, Bozrah
‘Ary
Der’a, Adraa
Mezarîb
Edhr’a, EDREI
Sunamein, Ære
Kesweh
Damascus

The Haurân is one of the most interesting sections of Palestine. For the number, extent, and beauty of its ruins it far surpasses all the rest. Unfortunately it is not always accessible ; and even when the traveller does obtain access, he is almost constantly exposed to some sudden outbreak of fierce Muslem fanaticism on the one hand, and to Bedawy ghuzus on the other: the latter throws a certain charm of adventure round the tour, but the former is an absolute nuisance. A Druze escort is the best safeguard against both the one and the other. The Druzes are the dominant party in the Haurân. Their chiefs exercise an authority all but absolute over the most interesting portion of it. Without a safe-conduct from them it would be folly to enter the country. This, however, may be easily obtained through the British consul at Damascus. A couple of their sturdy retainers—well mounted, as they always are, and well armed— form the best guards and guides. Some of them can usually be found in Damascus, and if not the traveller may attach himself to a caravan, and, provided with letters to the sheikhs, reach their territory. Another and perhaps a still better plan may be followed. After obtaining recommendations from the consul we proceed to the Druze village of Deir ’Aly, 4 hrs. from the city, whose sheikh will readily undertake to escort us across the intervening uninhabited plain to some of his brethren in the Lejah or the mountains. Between the territory of Damascus and the Druze district in the Haurân there is a broad desolate plain infested by Bedawy ghuzus from the eastern desert, and by robbers no less formidable from the rocky recesses of the Lejah. To pass this plain is our first difficulty, which may either be overcome by joining a caravan, or under the escort of the sheikh of Deir ’Aly, a strong border chieftain. Once within the Druze district we have no difficulty, in times of peace, in securing as large an escort as may be desired for safety or show.

It may be as well to remember that the Druze sheikhs form a hereditary nobility, preserving with great tenacity all the pride and state of their order. They receive and entertain travellers with profuse hospitality, and no compensation in money can be offered them. A bakhshish, however, in the shape of a few flasks of English gunpowder and a few boxes of first-rate percussion caps, or a small telescope, or, better still, a good rifle, is always acceptable. The servants and retainers are not so particular. A

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