Those who come from Egypt will do well to arrange with dragoman and servants there for the whole tour through Syria. This will save time and trouble. (For the usual mode of contract with the dragoman, see above, 7; and for the wages of servants, see ‘Handbook for Egypt.’) Such as come to Syria direct will find dragomen and servants at Beyrout and Jerusalem. They are generally bad and dear. Their written certificates are not to be depended on, for they are transferable; and the recommendations of hotel-keepers are worthless, for they are interested. A banker or consul may sometimes be consulted to more advantage.
The dragoman is either paid regular wages, about a dollar a day (6l. per month); or he contracts for a certain sum to provide everything. The former leaves the traveller more free, but it entails far more trouble; for unless the strictest supervision is constantly kept up, the wily dragoman will make a large percentage on every article purchased, and lead his master besides into much unnecessary expense. If it be intended to make a long stay in the country, this plan is decidedly more economical; but if a hurried visit or a few weeks’ travel be alone contemplated, then I recommend a contract for the supply of every article. The rates have of late ranged from 1l. 5s, to 1l 10s. a day for each person.
In making a contract there are several points which should be carefully noted: Ist. That guards, guides, and bakhshish of every kind are included. 2nd. That while the leading points you intend to visit are noted, you have full liberty to vary your course at pleasure, and stop when and where you wish. 3rd. The animals are to be sound, strong, and active; to secure which, personal inspection is necessary. 4th, The camp furniture is to be clean and comfortable, and the cuisine liberal.
I would further recommend travellers not to deliver themselves up to a dragoman, as letters are delivered to a postmaster, to be conveyed safely to a certain place, within a certain time, by such a route, and in such a way, as he (the dragoman) may deem right. Each individual, or each party, should mark out a definite route, which can easily be done by the aid of this Handbook, and insist on following it, all difficulties and dangers notwithstanding. It is a very common trick to invent a robber story to prevent a traveller from visiting some interesting spot which happens to be a few miles out of the routine way. Such things ought never to be listened to; and when the dragoman absolutely refuses to comply, let a good round sum be deducted from his pay for not fulfilling his contract. Another hint may be useful for poetical travellers, who, becoming enamoured of their dragoman, deem him the very embodiment of truth, honesty, and devotedness, It may be very charitable and pleasing to entertain these feelings, but it is very dangerous to act upon them. It is the unvarying rule in Syria for the dragoman to get an allowance of from 10 to 20 per cent. on every article his master buys. This makes the goods seem very dear, though the amount the merchant receives may not be much above their real value. This is a grievous imposition, but it is not easy to avoid it; for if the hotel-keeper or cicerone be employed as temporary interpreter, his commission will be greater still.
No information as to history, antiquities, statistics, or even places of interest out of the beaten track, need be expected from dragomen. For this the traveller must depend on his own reading, and his guide-book. Hence the necessity of forming a definite plan beforehand, as to the general line of route, and all the objects to be visited.
Other servants, such as cook, butler, groom, &c., can easily be obtained at Beyrout or Jerusalem by the help of the dragoman. The usual wages paid by residents are—for a cook, 120 to 150 piastres a month; butler, or other indoor servant, 100; groom, 100. The groom provides his own food and lodging. Such as reside only for two or three months may expect to pay higher rates.
The only dragoman I can venture to recommend is Aly Abu Halfwy, an Fgyptian. He bears testimonials from Cyril C. Graham, Esq., with whom he travelled for more than a year. He accompanied him to Dongola in Africa, and to the Saffh and Harrah in the Arabian desert ; besides wandering through parts of Palestine, both E. and W. of the Jordan, which most dragomen have never heard of. I had personal experience of his efficiency during a 40 days’ journey last spring. He may be heard of at the Consulate in Cairo.