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ROUTE 9.EXCURSION TO JERICHO, THE JORDAN,THE DEAD SEA, MAR SABA, AND BETHLEHEM.

Jerusalem to Jericho
The Jordan
The Dead Sea
Mar Saba
Bethlehem
Jerusalem

This excursion will occupy 3 days, and the best way of arranging it, both for convenience and profit, is to encamp the first night at Jericho, taking care to visit the objects of interest near it in the evening; start the second morning very early for the Jordan and Dead Sea, and spend the second night at Mar Sâba. An early ride the third morning brings us to Bethlehem, and active people may even take in the Frank mountain without much extra labour, leaving still sufficient time to see the lions of Bethlehem before returning to Jerusalem. The order may also be reversed, preserving the same stages. Tents are, of course, required at Jericho, but they may be sent back to the city from thence; or perhaps, for the sake of the beds and provender, it may be as well to forward them to the convent of Mar Sâba. The traveller who intends to enter this desert convent will require to procure an order from the Greek patriarch, or his agent at Jerusalem, without which no one is admitted within the walls. Ladies will remember, too, that the sex is under a ban in this holy spot, and can on no pretence whatever gain admission. 

To make this excursion an escort is absolutely necessary, as without it the adventurous traveller will unquestionably “fall among thieves” ere he reaches the Jordan; and will be likely to need the services of some “ good Samaritan.” A few years ago an arrangement was made by (I believe) the English consul with the sheikh of Abu Dîs, a small village near Bethany, to furnish an escort, and guarantee the safety of the traveller’s person and property, at the rate of 100 piastres a-head. But lately the government have taken the matter in their own hands, engaging to furnish an escort, without any guarantee however, for half the above sum. This arrangement is by no means satisfactory. When the pasha undertakes the escorting of travellers, he should be responsible for all losses ; and he ought to guard them at so much for each party instead of each person. When 15 or 20 travellers go together, as is often the case, it is pure imposition to be obliged to pay 8l. or 10l. for the services of a couple of horsemen, who may 'or may not be able to protect them. 

All arrangements being made, and the escort already flourishing their old matchlocks, or long lances, we mount and follow them. Again we wind round Olivet, and, passing Bethany, enter the “wilderness of Judæa.” The road soon becomes dreary enough, running among white desolate hills, and white rugged valleys, without a tree or shrub, or even a green grass-tuft. It would be almost insupportable were it not for the associations, and a certain spice of danger just sufficient to keep up the attention. Here and there the gleam of a matchlock catches the eye behind some projecting rock, or a tufted spear is seen winding suspiciously round the shoulder of a hill: but these are the only signs of present occupation; except, indeed, by some chance we fall in with a flock of goats.

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The Site of Ancient JERICHO

The site of ancient JERICHO.—A bout 1/2 m. from the foot of the pass, a short distance S. of the road to Rîha, is an immense reservoir, 657 ft. long, by 490 wide; and around it, especially on the western side, are extensive ruins, consisting of low mounds of rubbish, and foundations of buildings. Turning northward we perceive similar remains extending at intervals to the banks of the Kelt, and even along its N. side. Fording the little stream, and advancing still northwards, we enter in some 15 min.

Jericho to the Jordan

Jericho to the Jordan.—The distance from Jericho to the banks of the Jordan is about 1 ½ h. The bathing-place of the Latin pilgrims is nearly due E., beside the ruined convent of St. John, now called Kusr el Yehud, “the Jews’ Castle.” That of the Greeks is lower down, and is the one usually visited by travellers. We shall make a slight détour, so as to take in an ancient site, and as the road is good we can make up for it by a canter across the plain.

From the Jordan to the Dead Sea

From the Jordan to the Dead Sea: —The Jordan, a short distance below the pilgrims’ bathing-place, sweeps round to the W., and then to the S.E. and S. again; widening gradually as it advances, and becoming more sluggish. Towards the mouth of the river the banks are low and muddy. At the mouth the width is 180 yds., and the depth only 3 ft.; but there is no ford, owing to the soft and slimy nature of the banks and bed. The embouchure is considerably inclined to the north-eastern angle of the Dead Sea, and immediately in front of it are 3 small mud islands from 6 to 8 ft.

The Dead Sea to Mar Sâba.

The Dead Sea to Mar Sâba.—The direct road from the little peninsula at the north-western corner of the Dead Sea to Mar Sâba can be ridden in about 4 ½ hrs. It first leads for 1 h. across the plain, passing to the right of a jungle of canes and thorn-bushes, nourished by a brackish fountain called ’Ain Jehâir, and winding among a succession of deep furrows and pits, wrought by winter torrents in the white chalk strata, not inaptly compared by Maundrell to a collection of gigantic lime-kilns.

Convent of Mar Sâba

Convent of Mar Sâba.—In the wild grandeur of its situation Mar Sâba is the most extraordinary building in Palestine. Just at the place where it stands, a small side ravine tumbles down into the Kidron, and the buildings cover both sides of the former, and the projecting cliff between the two, the irregular masses of walls, towers, chambers, and chapels, here perched upon narrow rock terraces, and there clinging to the sides of precipices.

Mar Sâba to Bethlehem

Mar Sâba to Bethlehem. — By making an early start from the convent and crossing the mountain to Bethlehem, the traveller will have sufficient time to visit all the places of interest there, and to return to Jerusalem in the evening. Thus a day may be saved. The road leads for ½ hr. back again along the S. bank of the Kidron, and then turning to the l, passes a low ridge, and crosses a succession of naked plateaus.

Bethlehem

BETHLEHEM. — In sacred interest this village, though it be “little among the thousands of Judah,” is only second to Jerusalem itself. Few will climb the terraced acclivities that lead up to it from the Mar Saba road, or pass along the winding path that approaches it from the Holy City, without calling to mind that wondrous event which has given its name to our era. But independent of all associations its appearance is striking.

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