Near the mouth of the river several islands were missing—washed away. Cairo was still there—easily visible across the long, flat point upon whose further verge it stands; but we had to steam a long way around to get to it. Night fell as we were going out of the 'Upper River' and meeting the floods of the Ohio. We dashed along without anxiety; for the hidden rock which used to lie right in the way has moved up stream a long distance out of the channel; or rather, about one county has gone into the river from the Missouri point, and the Cairo point has 'made down' and added to its long tongue of territory correspondingly. The Mississippi is a just and equitable river; it never tumbles one man's farm overboard without building a new farm just like it for that man's neighbor. This keeps down hard feelings.

Going into Cairo, we came near killing a steamboat which paid no attention to our whistle and then tried to cross our bows. By doing some strong backing, we saved him; which was a great loss, for he would have made good literature.

Cairo is a brisk town now; and is substantially built, and has a city look about it which is in noticeable contrast to its former estate, as per Mr. Dickens's portrait of it. However, it was already building with bricks when I had seen it last—which was when Colonel (now General) Grant was drilling his first command there. Uncle Mumford says the libraries and Sunday-schools have done a good work in Cairo, as well as the brick masons. Cairo has a heavy railroad and river trade, and her situation at the junction of the two great rivers is so advantageous that she cannot well help prospering.

[LOTM p278-80]

To Olivia L. Clemens
22 April 1882 • SS Gold Dust en route from St. Louis, Mo., to Vicksburg, Miss.

Saturday Afternoon, ½ way to Memphis.

Livy darling, the swindle is all “up,.” Yesterday noon it came up cold, & I was driven to the pilot house to get warm. Got to talking with a little boy, son of a passenger, & presently felt the pilot’s eye on me. He had recognized my voice, after 21 years, though I did not remember him or his name either. He waited a while for confirmation of his suspicions; & presently when I raised my hat & passed my fingers up through my hair, he had no further doubts, & just called me by name. I confessed.

It would be nonsense to stop at Memphis, now, & fall a prey to the newspapers; so we shall stick to this boat to the bottom end of her voyage (Vicksburg), & then take a coast packet & go on to New Orleans. We shall reach Memphis tonight, & if I had the children along, we would turn out & hunt up Julia Koshloshky.

We are having a powerful good time & picking up & setting down volumes of literary stuff. I take a trick at the wheel occasionally, & find the mechanical work of steering a steamboat as familiar as if I had never ceased from it. But the “upper” river! It was as new to me as] if I had never heard of it before. However, I recognize the river below Cairo—I know it pretty fairly, though some of the changes are marvelous. For instance Island No. 10 used to be as close to shore as from our front door to Holbrook’s: now it lies away off across the water as far away as the Courant office. Of course the island is where it was, but the shore has been eaten away to that prodigious extent.

Telegraphed you from Cairo last night. Shall telegraph you from Memphis tomorrow morning.

Good bye, my darling Livy, & kiss everybody but Jean for me.

Samℓ.

P. S. Well, Jean too.

SLC to OLC, 22 April 1882 · SS Gold Dust, (UCCL 02204). 2021.