February 6 Thursday – The Clemens party left Benares at 1:28 p.m. [NB 36 TS 39]. It was a seventeen and a half hour train ride from Benares to Calcutta. Parsons writes,

February 7 Friday – The Clemens party changed trains at Moghalserais at 2 a.m. and arrived in Calcutta at 7 a.m. [NB 36 TS 39]. They took rooms at the Hotel Continental [Parsons “MT India” 85]. FE:

February 8 Saturday – Sam’s notebook:

To-day and yesterday lay abed & starved a cold.

This evening went to Belvedere & dined with the Lt. Governor of Bengal (Sir Alexander Mackenzie) & a dozen — private dinner party [NB 36 TS 40].

Sam sent a short note to Child & Co. after receiving some pipe tobacco:

This is the brand I wanted. I have smoked your Honey Dew Mixed in another part of the world, and learned to prefer it. Truly yours [MTP].

February 9 Sunday – In Calcutta, Sam went sightseeing. From his notebook:

Drove through native quarter & to Black Hole. Saw them excavating old brick cellars under the old Fort William [NB 36 TS 40].

February 10 Monday – Sam’s notebook in Calcutta:

By invitation of His Excellency, Lt-General Sir William Elles, we went to the great field outside of Fort William, 7.20 a.m., & saw the inspection of the Calcutta garrison 

At 9 [p.m.] went to the great military tournament — 9 till 12 [NB 36 TS 40, 42].

February 11 Tuesday – Sam’s notebook in Calcutta:

Went to Government House to see the portraits.

Then an hour in the Museum, among Indian sculptures & inscriptions

Then to call on the Lieut. Governor of Bengal — stayed to luncheon.

Then to call on H.E. the Commander-in-Chief of the Armies of India.

Then to call at the Bengal United Service Club….

Bought a silver mug for my niche as one of the founders of the Players, New York [NB 36 TS 42].

February 12 Wednesday – At 5:30 p.m. in Calcutta Sam gave his “At Home” (No. 2) lecture at the Theatre Royal to a packed house. The early time was selected so those in the suburbs might come, and leave just after 7 p.m. Sam’s Australian Poem was advertised as the “principal feature” by the Englishman (Feb. 12). Note: Reviews published Feb. 13: Calcutta Englishman; Calcutta Statesman [Ahluwalia 22].

February 13 Thursday – In Calcutta during the morning Sam attended the Supreme Legislative Council, and noted “the Viceroy (Lord Elgin) in the chair” [NB 36 TS 43-4]. The Englishman reported on Feb. 14 that the Council “had a distinguished visitor in the person of Mark Twain at its weekly meeting yesterday morning. Mr Clemens seemed to take considerable interest in the proceedings, which struck him as practical and businesslike” [Ahluwalia 15].

February 14 Friday – At 4:30 p.m., the Clemens party left Calcutta for Darjeeling, a 24-hour trip of 361 miles.

Until dark we moved through rich vegetation, then changed to a boat and crossed the Ganges [FE ch LV 524].

4.30 p.m. Left Calcutta for Darjeeling in the official car of Mr. Barclay, chief of traffic.

8.30 p.m. changed to boat to cross the Ganges. Had a sumptuous dinner — joined at the table by Mr. Holmes, chief of traffic on the other side, & by another official and his wife

February 15 Saturday – Livy described a 9 a.m. breakfast set for them on the train [Feb. 16 to Jean]. Sam wrote of the trip to Darjeeling:

February 16 Sunday – Clara Clemens remembered:

February 17 Monday – The fog cleared and Sam got a good view of the Himalayas and of Mt. Kinchinjunga, 28,146 feet. As he was being accompanied to the railroad station to leave Darjeeling, Sam said of the view, “I intended to tell the many people in Calcutta, who told me of the grandeur of the snows, that I had seen them, whether I had or not. I am glad to be saved the pain of telling a lie” [Parsons “MT India” 89-90].

Sam’s notebook:

February 18 Tuesday – Sam and Carlyle Smythe arrived back in Calcutta at 11 a.m. At 2 p.m., at the Continental Hotel, Sam wrote to H.H. Rogers, having just received his Jan. 9 letter (not extant).

February 19 Wednesday – The Clemens party arrived in Muzaffarpur at noon. He gave his lecture at 9:30 p.m. Sam’s notebook:

Mr. Hall’s bungalow — indigo planter…slept all afternoon.

Talked at 9:30 p.m.; had a supper for a dozen in the same club, went in evening dress & took train at 1 a.m. [NB 36 TS 50].

February 20 Thursday – A travel day. Sam and Smythe left Muzaffarpur at 1 a.m. on the train. At 5 a.m. they took a boat and landed near Dinapur, then traveled on to Benares. Sam’s notebook suggests Livy and Clara took a train from Calcutta to meet the pair, as they had not left with them on Feb. 18.

February 21 Friday – The Clemens party left Benares for Lucknow, some 261 miles. Sam’s notebook:

Feb. 21. Left for Lucknow about 1 p.m., hot as the nation, the flat plains the color of pale dust, & the dust flying. Tiffin [lunch] at 2, at Jawnpur City. No doubt all those native grayheads remember the Mutiny [NB 36 TS 49-50].

Parson writes,

February 22 Saturday – Lucknow, India. Sam was “all over” the Residency ruins with “young” Stirling. Sam gave his No. 1 “At Home” lecture at the Mahomed Bagh Club at 9:30 p.m. The Allahabad Pioneer of Feb. 28 reported “the house being crowded, and the great humorist’s lecture was received with hearty applause from start to finish” [Ahwaluia 17].

February 23 Sunday – Sam’s notebook in Lucknow:

Drove with Major and Mrs. Aylmer (16th Lancers) & Capt. & Mrs. Dallas, in the regimental drag (4 horses) over the whole of Colin Campbell’s March, & also out to the Imam Bara….[NB 36 TS 50-1].

February 24 Monday – At 9:30 p.m. Sam gave another lecture at the Mohamed Bagh Club in Lucknow, India [Ahwaluia 17]. This lecture was reported in the Allahabad Pioneer on Feb. 26 [23].

February 25 Tuesday – The Clemens party left Lucknow and traveled some 40 miles southwest to Kanpur (Cawnpore). Parsons writes,

February 26 Wednesday – In Kanpur, India the Clemens party was the guests of Lt. Col. P. Baddeley and visited more sites connected with the Indian Mutiny of 1857. Sam accepted an invitation, expecting to be in Meerut on Mar. 3 [Ahluwalia 17].

Sam wrote in Kanpur to an unidentified man:

My wife & daughter & I thank you very much for your kind invitation, & are very glad to accept it.

February 27 Thursday – The Clemens family left Kanpur and traveled 45 miles to Agra, staying at the Government House occupied by Colonel P.L. Loch [Ahluwalia 17; Livy to Crane Feb. 28]. Sam’s notebook:

Agra. Feb. 27. Visited the microbes of Mr. Henkin. Has proved that no cholera microbes in the Ganges & the Jumna…/ Guests of Lt. Col. P.L. Loch, Political Agent [NB 36 TS 52-3].

February 28 Friday – At 5:30 p.m. in Agra, Metcalfe Hall, Sam gave his “At Home” lecture to another full hall. Sam noted the lecture ran an hour and 35 minutes. Sam’s notebook:

Mouza was drunk again last night; 2d time in 2 weeks. At midnight was sleeping on the marble steps of the great portico, with his head on the bare flags….

Lectured: Corpse, Plug, Poem, Smpox, German, Xning — 1 hr 35 m.

February 29 Saturday – At 10 p.m. the Clemens party left Agra and traveled 140 miles to Jaipur. Sam’s notebook:

Feb. 29. Mr. Achlom [Aklom] & wife & 2 dau; they live in Ajmir

At noon, gave Mouza a note to carry to Smythe & bring an answer, & told him he could consider himself discharged at 7 this evening. He laid his fingers against his forehead as usual, made the usual inclination, said “wair good” (very good), just as he always does when receiving an order, — & that was all. It was pathetic….

March 1 Sunday – In Jaipur the Clemens party took ill — first Sam, then Smythe, then Clara. Sam’s notebook of Mar. 4:

Arrived here next morning at 9 or 10. Immediately ordered by Dr. Hendley to throw up Delhi & other engagements & rest a week or 10 days. Smythe arrived Feb. 1 [Mar. 1] & in bed ill ever since. Clara ditto [NB 36 TS 54-5].