July 15 Thursday – Lucerne, Switzerland. Sam wrote to Henry M. Stanley. Cue: “Professor Levi of Michigan University” [MTP]. Note: letter UCCL 13296 is currently unavailable at MTP.
The Fremden-Blatt (Visitor’s Register) entry reads: “Mr. S.L. Clemens with family and courier, U.S.A.” Ernst Köppe is referred to by Locher as Sue Crane’s “servant,” and may have acted as “courier.” Bloch points out Sam crossed the Kapellbrucke and entered the Hofkirche, and discovered an “ancestor”— “This was the holy Clemens Romanus, the legendary pupil of St. Paul and third Pope, and at most related to this Clemens only through Adam and Noah. Still, it was an amusing discovery” [6].
Sam’s notebook :
You climb two flights of wide steps. Queer little church surmounted by a couple of very tall & exceedingly slender & sharp toothpick spires—sharp enough for birds to get impaled upon them. On one leaf of the ancient oaken door is carved an old-time knight in armor in deep relief—on the other a bishop. In the roomy vestibule are life-size statues of 6 saints in niches, with their names labeled underneath them—St. Peter is one of them & has his golden key. One is labeled S. Clemens—just my name, just my initial. It was a proud thing to find an ancestor in such a place & in such company. Still, there have always been saints in our family. If I had my rights I would be one myself. This one had a helmet, probably used to be on the police before he got promoted.
All around the church extends the churchyard; & it was noticeable that there were flowers on graves 50 years old. A quiet reposeful place, the shrubbery well tended.
Went to Cook’s to get some change. Frenchman there talked ½ hour. He took it for a conversation bureau, perhaps.
Lucerne, July 15. Telegraphed Pond at Liverpool. “Have concluded not to lecture.” Went to Gersau by boat; the others went on to Brunnen, en route to Stoos.
Crossed the crooked old covered wooden bridge. Oil painting overhead—150; half of them pious, the other half battles &c of the ancient times. A few of them good (& comparatively modern, I think) the others ancient, dim, & rude. Each picture has some German doggerel under it.
In the church vestibule printed terms for getting your slate wiped clean of sins [NB 41 TS 48-9]. Note: Sam’s NB 42, TS 5 lists Lucerne, the Gletscher Museum.
The Chap-Book, p.151-2 reprinted Sam’s “reluctant” June 19 letter to the NY Herald, then editorialized: “We should like to believe still that the real man in health and happiness is somewhat more sturdy than the pathetically flaccid and groveling figure we are trying not to see today” [Tenney: “A Reference Guide Fourth Annual Supplement,” American Literary Realism, Autumn 1980 p. 173]. Note: for more of this editorial, see MTHHR 289n3.
Sam used two overlapping notebooks for this period (now #41 and 42). The latter contains an address list of eight pages, together with day of week and/or times each was available for social calls. These provide an insight into important persons he either met, or intended to meet, or wanted to know about. Most of these were in Vienna, a few elsewhere. The following list is in the order he entered it (omitting a few duplications) . Each entry was separated with a short horizontal line. These listings may have been accumulated over a period of days or weeks. The list directly follows the Gletscher Museum entry and is prior to Sam’s description of the Villa Bühlegg, which the family took possession of on July 16.
Name Address Day/time/notes
Gisbert Clemens Wipplingerstr 4.
Countess Czernin VIII Landesgerichtstrasse 9.
Countess Clam (Excellenz.) IX Wahringerstr 30. Before 3 o’clock
Princess Khevenhuller IX Turkenstrasse 19 Before 2 p.m.
Princess Dietrichstein I Minoriten platz 4
Princess Hatzfeld I. Parkring, Palais Colorado, ecke der Zedlitzgasse
Princess Croy Schonburggasse 10 2 p.m.
Baroness Schneider-Arno Maysedergasse 6, III stock.
Count de Busirei [sic Buisseret] Wohllebengasse 11 3 pm, Weds.
Dr. Otis Elizabethstr 9
Baroness Bienerth I. Lederhof 2.
Count Harrach Palace Harrach. Freiung.
The Swiss Minister (de Claparede) III. Veithgasse 11. Fridays, 5.
Countess Alice Hardegg I. Herrengasse 6 6 pm & 12 noon
Princess Metternich Gorden 27 Rennwegg – III. Palace. 6 pm.
Mrs. C.A. Nichols 219 King’s Road Cheasea SW London
Wiener Frauen-Erwerb Verein VI. Rohlgasse 4 Wednesdays. 2 Maximilienstrasse 28 Saturdays.
Prof. Winternitz Wipplingerstrasse 28—2nd floor Kaltenleutgeben
Countess Vetter-Wimpfen Tuchlauben 13—1st floor
Count (Sagehenyi) & his mother IV. Plosselgasse 2.
Count Ahlefeldt, Danish Minister 25 Rennweg.
Baron Christian v. Berckheim III. Fasangasse 51.
Lady Stewart VI. Kostlergasse 13.
Mr. Findlay Jaquingasse 31.
Ludwig Kleinberg I. Bartensteingasse 16.
Milbank, Brit. Emb. Rennweg 23
Wm Wood 19 Boulevard Berthier, Paris
Countess Thum Salm Thum Palace, Karutnerstrasse 41
Count Richard Coudenhove III. Auenbruggerstrasse 2
Countess M. Wydenbruck-Esterhazy Rennweg 1a. Monday, Wed. & Friday
Count Lanckoronski Jaquingasse 8 Cards to be left by
Count Coudenhove. They have no day.
Count Kuelmansegge Herrngasse 11. Cards to go by Clara.
Wm. Lavino Lothringerstr 1. Thursdays, 2 to 4
Freiherr von Pirquet I Krugerstr 17 2d stock
Ritter von Dutschka Molkerbastei 5.
Dr. M. Levor Rutschbahn 7, Hamburg 1. Forsitzender der Lit. Gesellshaft
Dr. Alfred Winternitz III Sechskrugelgasse 14
Child & Co, tobacconists Chowringhae, Calcutta. $100
Alfred Freiherr von Berger Hitzingerhaupstr 31
IV Johann Strauss Igelgasse 4.
Dr. Ernst Ritter von Klarwill
Director Heinrich Hirsch Theater Gesellschaft’s Bureau Te. 7631. I Niebelungengasse 7
Mr. Sigmund Schlesinger III Marxergasse 16A.
The Duke de Frias, Spanish Embassy Grand Hotel & Jockey Club
Frl. Marion v. Kendler 46 Babenbergerstr. Modling bei Wien
Tailor. Salatsch & Son Goldschmidgasse 10
Percy Mitchell 1 rue Godot de Mauroy Paris
Excellenz Baron Ziemialkowsky I. Rienierstrasse 6 (Mondays.)
Excellenz Baronin Yovanovic I Lowelstrasse 12 Mezzanin.
(Durchlaucht) Prince Alois zu II Valierstrasse 3 Liechtenstein
Dr. Arthur Breycha Karntnerring 9. (Handelsministerium)
Madame Krall Borsegasse 9.
Namourra Paris Herald telegraphic address
Dr. Wilhelm Pokorney, Dr. Spitzer I Stoss im Himmel 1 – 1 stock. Homeopaths.
The Minister of Foreign Affairs At the Foreign Affairs palace Tuesdays 2—to 4.
Count Gouloschowski
Mr. Brawn Lindon I Buring 9.
Howard Krause Londorferstrasse 10
J Brander Dunbar Pitgaveny, Elgin, Great Britain
Dr. Hutenbrenner Sonnenfelsgasse 15.
Countess Vetter von der Lilie I. Tuchlauben 13.
Prince Clary 9 Herrengasse.
Sir Horace Rumbold, English Metternichgasse 2 p.m. Ambassador
Prince Liechnowsky Veithgasse 5. III.
Leschetitsky 42 Karlludwigstr.
Dr. Hans Richter Sternwartester 56.
Her Imperial Highness At the palace, Favoritenstrasse 7.
The Archduchess Maria Theresa
The U.S. Embassy Allegasse 27 Charlemagne Tower
Lt. Chamberlain, Attache Gusshausstr 17.
Fraulien Ries (Sculptor) Salmgasse 8.
Count Szecsen
Mme Diamandy Jacquingasse 39.
Monsieur Ghika Pratersterne 1 (?)
Roumanian Minister
Adolf Hagenauer I. Tuchlauben 4 WHISKY.
Count von Moltke IV Theresianumgasse 2 p.m.
Count Paraty, Portuguese Minister Grand Hotel
Marquis Cusani Schwindgasse 10
Count Nigra, Italian Minister I Josefsplatz 6.
Prince Batthyany-Strattmann 1 Grillparzerstrasse 11
Count Szecsen (Foreign Office) IV Belvederegasse 32
Monsieur Diamandy III Jacquingasse 39
Princess Metternich Jacquingasse (in the new palace)
Princess Windischgratz I. Wallnerstrasse 8.
Comte Victor de Crenneville Jasomirgottgasse 3.
[NB 42 TS 3-11]. Note: several duplicates not included.