July 14 Wednesday – The Clemens family arrived in Cologne, Germany at 12:30 after midnight. They had to settle for rooms at the Victoria Hotel, discovering there was no “Grand Hotel.” Sam’s notebook gives particulars:

arr. Cologne 12.30 a m—no hotel—went to the Victoria after sending a telegram to the imaginary “Grand.” H–l of a hotel, but cheap, 43 marks for everything, i.e. lodging & breakfast-coffee.

There 12 hours & left at 12.30 p.m.—arr[ived] at Basel 8.24. Left at 9—arr at Lucerne 11 pm. Rebstock hotel. Wouldn’t do. Went to the Union [Hotel].

The official who helped us at Basel—good man.

Paid out in fees these 2 days, goodness knows how much.

At Cologne, 45 m to train time the tribe went off to the Cathedral. (Say [Sue?] missed the train) [NB 41 TS 48].

Note: Locher reports that “most of the guests were British” in the Hotel Union in Lucerne, Switzerland [6]. Locher gives an excellent exposition of Lucerne and Weggis, and of the family’s stay there. He observes that “Lucerne and the surrounding villages had long since adjusted to the tourist traffic. From April until October 1893, for example, …80,000 arrivals were counted in Lucerne alone; about one third of them were American and British…in the second half of July 1897, 1,828 visitors from the United States and Canada were registered in the hotels and pensions of Lucerne [4]