September 24 Friday – The Clemens party spent the day in Salzburg, Austria. Sam’s notebook:

“From the din of unpleasant church-bells it would seem that this village of 27,600 people is made up mainly of churches. Money represents labor, sweat, weariness. And that is what these useless churches have cost these people & are still costing them to support the useless priests & monks” [Dolmetsch 23: NB 42 TS 38].

Dolmetsch writes,

Indeed, his impressions of the city on the Salzach and its imposing nine-hundred-year- old fortress castle were mostly negative, though he was amused by the frequency with which ubiquitous “Verboten” sings on the Getreidegasse, the Pferdschwemme, and Saltzor were ignored by local citizens, noting, “There are prohibitions at every turn, but nobody obeys them. It is a very free town” [23-24: NB 42 TS 37-8].