Switzerland and the adjacent portions of Italy, Savoy and the Tyrol
65. From Geneva to Chamouny.
53 1/2 M. Diligence to St. Gervais in 5 1/2 hrs., to Chamouny in 7 1/2 hrs. (banquette 21 fr.; coupé, not recommended, 25 fr.). Before payment is made, the vehicle and seat should be inspected. For the return journey (to Sallanches 2 1/4, to Geneva 6 1/2 hrs.) the traveller may, owing to the great competition at Chamouny, easily secure a diligence-seat at a much lower rate (to Geneva 8-10 fr. at most should be paid). Excursion-tickets are issued from Geneva to Chamouny, and back by Martigny and Bouveret or vice versâ (1st cl. 52, 2nd cl. 46 fr.; tickets for a party of two or more persons at reduced rates), but the saving thereby effected is very trifling. Purchasers should be satisfied as to the respectability of the agent who offers them for sale.
Carriages. The ordinary charge for a one-horse carriage from Geneva to Chamouny is 45 fr., two-horse carriage 70-80fr. and 4-5 fr. driver's fee.-- Those who return to Geneva by carriage should make a previous bargain with the driver.
The road to Bonneville traverses the new suburbs, passing villas and well-kept grounds in almost uninterrupted succession as far as the large village of (2 M.) Chéne (1384'). The Foron separates Geneva from Savoy. Annemasse (1427'), 2 1/4 M. farther, is the first French village (no examination of luggage, as the Département de la Haute Savoie is exempt from imposts). Beyond the village, to the right, rises the cháteau of Etrambière, at the base of the Petit-Salève, and beyond it Mornex becomes visible. The road approaches the Arve, and crosses the Menoge by a handsome bridge.
The scenery becomes more picturesque. In the background the pyramid of the Môle (6127') bounds the landscape. Beyond Nangy, on a pine-clad knoll, stands the Chateau de Pierre, the property of an Englishman. Near (7 3/4 M.) Contamines-sur-Arve (1516'), to the left on the slope of the hill, lies the chateau of Villy; beyond the village, on a rocky height, are the two ruined towers of the ancient castle of Faucigny, from which the province derives its name.
17 M. Bonneville (1457'; Couronne; Balances), a small town with 2247 inhab., the capital of the province, is picturesquely situated in a fertile valley, flanked by the rugged limestone rocks of the Brezon (6165') on the right, and the slopes of the Môle on the left. A handsome bridge crosses the Arve near which, on the right bank, stands a Monument to the natives of the Department who fell in the campaign of 1870-71; on the left bank rises a monument, 100' high, to King Charles Felix of Sardinia.
The road now traverses flat meadow-land, which is frequently inundated, and then enters a broad and fertile valley bounded by lofty mountains. Opposite Vougy the Giffre falls into the Arve, on its right bank. (8 M.) Scionzier, a village where horses are changed, lies at the entrance to the wild Reposoir valley. To the left, on a hill over which a road leads to Taiminges, is the castle of Châtillon (view). The road crosses the Arve, and reaches (1 M.)
26 M. Cluses (1591'; Balances; Union, poor), a smalltown, rebuilt since a fire in 1844, is chiefly inhabited by watchmakers. To the left near the entrance is an École d'Horlogerie. Beyond (3 M.)Balme (1624'; Chalet Grotte de Balme), in the precipitous bluish-yellow limestone rock to the left, 800' above the road, we observe the entrance to a stalactite-grotto, which is hardly worth visiting (2 hrs. there and back; 3fr. each pers.).
Near Magland is a spring by the road-side, supposed by Saussure to descend from the small Lac de Flaine (4695'), on the hill above. On the left, farther on, rise the bold precipices of the Aiguilles de Varens (8831'). The cascade of Arpenaz, which presents an imposing appearance after rain, is not unlike the Staubbach.
The valley now expands. The road traverses a district devastated by torrents of mud and detritus. At the village of (7 M.) St. Martin (Hôtel du Montblanc; Hôtel des Grandes Alpes) we suddenly obtain a magnificent View of Mont Blanc, whose dazzling peaks rising majestically at the head of the valley seem almost to annihilate the intervening space, though it is no less than 12 M. distant in a straight line. Above the broad bed of the Arve, in the same direction, rises Mont Forclaz, with its pine-clad slopes. Beyond it tower the Aiguilles du Goûter (12,707') and the Dôme du Goûter (14,210'). A handsome bridge crosses the Arve to (1/2 M.)
36 1/2M. Sallanches (1788'; Hôtel des Messageries; Bellevue; Chalet Suisse), a small town with 1981 inhab., rebuilt since a fire in 1840, where the diligence generally stops for dinner. The road divides here. The old road leads on the right bank of the Arve from St. Martin to Chède and (8 M.) Servoz. The new road continues to follow the left bank, and (5 M.) at the foot of the Tête Noire crosses the Bon-Nant. (Beyond the bridge: Hôtel des Alpes ; Chalet des Bains de St. Gervais.)
St. Gervais-les-Bains (2066'; Hôtel), a small, but popular watering-place with sulphur-springs, is situated in the wooded ravine of Montjoie, 1/2 M. from the Chamouny road, on the Bon-Nant ('Nant' being the name applied to all mountain streams in Savoy) which forms a picturesque waterfall at the back of the baths (`La Cascade de Crépin'). A foot-path leads in 20 min. from the baths to the --
Village of St. Gervais (2657'; Hôtels du Mont Joli , `du Montblanc, de Genève, and several pensions), on the road to Contamines, prettily situated, and visited by invalids for the sake of its pure air. (The Pont du Bon-Nant is 2 M. distant by the carriage-road.)
Pedestrians may quit the diligence at St. Gervais and walk over the Col de la Forclaz (5105'), a pass between the Tête Noire (5800'; not to be confounded with the Tête Noire between Chamouny and Martigny) and the Prarion (6460'), direct to Le Fouilly and Les Ouches in 5-6 hrs. (guide desirable, 6fr.). A longer, but more interesting route (6-7 hrs.) from St. Gervais to Chamouny is over the Col de Voza.
From the Pont du Bon-Nant a road crosses the Arve to Chède and Servoz. The new high-road to Chamouny on the left bank of the Arve ascends gradually, with the impetuous stream almost immediately below it, passes through a tunnel, and enters the wooded valley of (3 1/2 M.) Le Chátelard (tavern). In the opening of the valley is seen the jagged Aiguille du Midi (12,608'). A little beyond the inn the road passes through a short tunnel and again approaches the Arve, on the opposite bank of which lies Servoz. It then leads past Le Lac to the (2 M.) Hôtel des Montets, where it joins the road from Servoz. (The Gorges de la Diosaz near Servoz, recently made accessible, are worthy of a visit; 1 1/2-2hrs. from the Hôtel des Montets there and back; adm. lfr.) About 1/2M. farther on, the old Chamouny road rapidly ascends Les Montets, a rocky ridge separating the lower from the upper region of the valley, while the new road traverses the picturesque wooded defile of the Arve, crossing to the right bank by the Pont de Marie below the hamlet of Le Fouilly, and to left again below Les Ouches near the mouth of the Nant de la Gria. The glaciers now gradually become visible but owing to the vastness of the mountains in which they are framed, it is impossible at first to realise their extent. The first are the Glaciers de Gria and de Taconay; then the Glacier des Bossons near the village of that name, which, as it extends farthest into the valley, is apparently the most extensive. In the distance is the Glacier des Bois, the offshoot of the Mer de Glace. A little above the Glacier des Bossons the road crosses the Arve again by the Pont de Perralotaz, and follows its right bank.
53 1/2 M. Chamouny, or Chamonix (3445').