“Why are we starting here?” I ask. [This is actually Mark Twain's eleventh point on his itinerary for a pilgrim]

“Because this temple, Sakhi Binayak, is dedicated to the god Ganesha, the god of prosperity and good luck, so every new venture starts with a visit to Ganesha. We are touring the temples, that’s a new venture, so we should start here. Everyone can worship Ganesha and everyone does.”

I look at my notes and say, “Mark Twain came here to have his redemption recorded after the 44-mile pilgrimage he didn’t—and we won’t—be making. Could that be right?”

“No, I think he was joking,” Shailesh replies.

“Then Twain says; ‘you will see a Brahmin who will attend to the matter and take the money. If he should forget to collect the money, you can remind him.’”

Shailesh smiles and agrees some things never change. We turn left and walk through a row of tacky, shiny shops selling glitzy gluck. Ganesha has now found himself in the back of a shop. He has clearly answered all those pleas for prosperity but in doing so has lost his pride of place—and his fee-collecting Brahmin.
(The Indian Equator)