Submitted by scott on Thu, 10/14/2021 - 10:32
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Beirout, September 10, Tuesday The Quaker City has arrived in Beirout, Lebanon. The tourists were broken up into groups, Mark Twain's group was to take 'the long trip"

Well, out of our eight, three were selected to attend to all business connected with the expedition. The rest of us had nothing to do but look at the beautiful city of Beirout, with its bright, new houses nestled among a wilderness of green shrubbery spread abroad over an upland that sloped gently down to the sea; and also at the mountains of Lebanon that environ it; and likewise to bathe in the transparent blue water that rolled its billows about the ship (we did not know there were sharks there.) We had also to range up and down through the town and look at the costumes. These are picturesque and fanciful, but not so varied as at Constantinople and Smyrna; the women of Beirout add an agony—in the two former cities the sex wear a thin veil which one can see through (and they often expose their ancles,) but at Beirout they cover their entire faces with dark-colored or black veils, so that they look like mummies, and then expose their breasts to the public. A young gentleman (I believe he was a Greek,) volunteered to show us around the city, and said it would afford him great pleasure, because he was studying English and wanted practice in that language. When we had finished the rounds, however, he called for remuneration—said he hoped the gentlemen would give him a trifle in the way of a few piastres (equivalent to a few five cent pieces.) We did so. The Consul was surprised when he heard it, and said he knew the young fellow’s family very well, and that they were an old and highly respectable family and worth a hundred and fifty thousand dollars! Some people, so situated, would have been ashamed of the berth he had with us and his manner of crawling into it.

September 11, Wednesday

Sam, Dr. George Birch, William Church, Joshua Davis, William Denny, Julius Moulton, Dan Slote, and Jack Van Nostrand left Beirut, Lebanon on horseback at 3 PM . . Our caravan numbers 24 mules & horses, & 14 serving men—28 men all told.

September 12 Thursday

The group broke camp at 6:30 AM.  and traveled to Temnin el  Foka.  From Sam’s notebook:1867 "Passed up the Valley & camped on l. side under the dews of Hermon. –first passing through a dirty Arab village & visiting the tomb of Noah, of Deluge notoriety.

September 13 Friday:

The Pilgrims  traveled to Baalbek and the Baalbek quarry.  Then, to the dismay of Sam, on to Sirghaya.  The leg to Baalbek is approximately 15.6 miles with a drop in elevation to 3,111 feet and a climb then to 3.671 feet.  The leg from Baalbek to Sirghaya is approximately 15.9 miles with a climb to 5,582 feet.  This section of the pilgrim's trail has several changes in elevation  with 4,663 feet at Sirghaya.

September 14 Saturday

The Pilgrims depart Sirghaya and travel to Damascus, making a side trip to Figia.  The journey to Figia is approximately 19.8 miles and the final leg to Damascus, and additional 14.2 miles.

A Matter of Conscience

September 15 Sunday

Twain reports being very sick for the last 24 hours he spent in Damascus, so I'm not sure how his itinerary actually works out. He calls it cholera, I suspect he had a case of dysentery from drinking the water.

September 16 Monday Sam and group left Damascus at noon, and camped that night at Kefr Hauwar. Meanwhile, the QC arrived at Mt. Carmel at 10 AM and left again at noon, arriving at Jaffa (now part of Tel Aviv) at 8 PM .(MTDBD)  This is a journey of approximately 28 miles.  

It seems more likely that, rather than Kefr Hauwar, then pilgrims traveled to Al Qunaitra, Jonesborough.

September 17 Tuesday Sam and group departed Kefr Hauwar in the AM and camped that night at Baniyas, once the ancient city of Caesarea Philippi. From Sam’s notebook: A great, massive, ruined citadel of 4 acres...hoof prints deep in old rocks...This is the first place we have ever seen, whose pavements were trodden by Jesus Christ.

September 18 Wednesday Sam and group departed Baniyas at 7:15 AM , and camped that night at Ain Mellahah, near Lake Huleh (now called Bahret el Hule). From Sam’s notebook: It was first, ages ago, the Phoenician Laish—a lot of Danites from Sodom, 600, came over, like a pack of adventurers as they were, captured the place & lived there as sort of luxurious agriculturists, till Abraham hazed them in after times [MTNJ 1: 422]. (MTDBD)

September 19 Thursday Sam and group left Ain Mellahah at 7 AM and camped that night at Tiberias, on the Sea of Galilee. (MTDBD)

September 20 Friday Sam and group left Tiberias in the AM and camped that night at Nazareth. (MTDBD)

September 21 Saturday

Sam and group left Nazareth and camped that night at Janin. From Sam’s notebook: Left Nazareth & its chalk hills at 7.30 [AM], came down a high, steep mountain & galloped across the Plain of Esdraelon to Endor, the rustiest of all, almost—a few nasty mud cabin,—many caves & holes in the hill from which the fierce, ragged, dirty inhabitants swarmed. Pop. 250 [MTNJ 1: 427].

September 22 Sunday

Sam and group left Janin at 2 AM and camped that night at Lubban. From Sam’s notebook: Camped at 7 PM at an Arab Village—Lubia (Libonia of the Bible). Tents behind. Slept on the ground in front of an Arab house. Lice, fleas, horses, jackasses, chickens, & worse than all, Arabs for company all night [MTNJ 1: 431]. (MTDBD)

September 23 Monday Sam and group left Lubban at 2:30 AM and reached Jerusalem at noon.

A fast walker could go outside the walls of Jerusalem and walk entirely around the city in an hour. I do not know how else to make one understand how small it is. The appearance of the city is peculiar. It is as knobby with countless little domes as a prison door is with bolt-heads. Every house has from one to half a dozen of these white plastered domes of stone, broad and low, sitting in the centre of, or in a cluster upon, the flat roof.

September 25 Wednesday
Sam and group left Jerusalem at 8 AM for a two-day side trip, camping that night near Jericho. (MTDBD)

The first leg of the trip to Jericho as described by Bædeker, 30 years later:

September 26 Thursday
Sam and group left Jericho at 2 AM and visited the Jordan River and the Dead Sea.
Sam swam in the north end of the Dead Sea and tried to ride his horse into it, but fell off [Rasmussen 107].
That night they camped at Mar Saba. (MTDBD)

September 27 Friday Sam and group left Mar Saba at 3 AM and visited Bethlehem. They returned to Jerusalem at noon. (MTDBD)

September 28, 29, & 30

We visited all the holy places about Jerusalem which we had left unvisited when we journeyed to the Jordan and then, about three o’clock one afternoon, we fell into procession and marched out at the stately Damascus gate, and the walls of Jerusalem shut us out forever. We paused on the summit of a distant hill and took a final look and made a final farewell to the venerable city which had been such a good home to us.

We are cut up into parties of six or eight, and by this time are scattered far and wide. Ours is the only one, however, that is venturing on what is called “the long trip”—that is, out into Syria, by Baalbec to Damascus, and thence down through the full length of Palestine. It would be a tedious, and also a too risky journey, at this hot season of the year, for any but strong, healthy men, accustomed somewhat to fatigue and rough life in the open air. The other parties will take shorter journeys.

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